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Crank fire ignition
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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2007/1/22 23:06
From East New Britain, Papua New Guinea
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Hello experts,

After some advice fitting the 360 -1 toothed wheel.

The ID of the sprocket is considerably smaller than the OD of the crank pulley, do I simply weld the sprocket of the front of the pulley or should I machine down the pulley and fit the sprocket?

Will the second option ruin the fan belt profile?

Would an interference fit suffice? I was going to machine the pulley down, freeze it and then press fit the sprocket, slightly heated up, onto the pulley.

Posted on: 2013/4/9 3:43
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Re: Crank fire ignition
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Do you mean a 36-1 tooth wheel?

You can do it any way you want.

Some guys weld, screw, or expoxy the 36-1 to the original crank pulley.

Others machine it to fit the snout.

Yet others machine the 36-1 to fit on the original crank pulley, and use an interference fit.

datto1000 wagon method
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I bolted mine to the crankshaft, not welded or attached to any pulley. Used a bushing since the 36-1 pulley I.D. was larger than the crank bolt.

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Posted on: 2013/4/9 3:48
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Re: Crank fire ignition
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Hi dd yes, sorry, I meant 36-1!

I'll work toward machining the pulley down to suit the toothed wheel, thanks for the help.

Posted on: 2013/4/9 21:16
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Re: Crank fire ignition
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Here's some other 36-1 crank trigger wheels

Ford Germany 98XM 6K339 AA wheel, 160mm
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DIY Auto Tune wheel easy bolt on
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Posted on: 2013/4/10 2:44
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Re: Crank fire ignition
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Hmmm quick measurements.

36-1 wheel ID is 102

Crank pulley OD is 130

That's a lot to take off. I might just mark it up on the lathe and then work around fitting the wheel to the front....... A replacement wheel would take about 4-6 weeks to reach me here.....

Posted on: 2013/4/10 5:52
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Re: Crank fire ignition
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Another thing you could do is fit a double A-series crank pully and machine the front rim for a 36-1 pattern directly into the cast iron.

Posted on: 2013/4/10 6:08
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Re: Crank fire ignition
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Yeah it's one of those moments though. You know you have one but can't find it....

Will try machining it down and machining the side of the wheel two to recreate the belt vee. Will revert.

Posted on: 2013/4/10 7:12
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Re: Crank fire ignition
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here is a easy solution, get a -a12 rotor disy an take out one pick up an fit to your motor. easyer than the other rubbish

Posted on: 2013/4/10 9:57
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Re: Crank fire ignition
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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"here is a easy solution, get a -a12 rotor disy an take out one pick up an fit to your motor. easyer than the other rubbish"

Crank angle is more accurate than cam timing but if the 13B rotor dizzie works the go for that, The common rotor CAS dizzies for ease of sourcing, first came out on the S4 13B and not the 12a rotors (Im sure you meant not a12 :) as most where all dizzie with coils.

Posted on: 2013/4/10 10:31
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Re: Crank fire ignition
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Yes, fitting an A12 distributor into an A12 is the easiest solution.

To get the most HP out of your A12, the distributor should be recurved. Which is a lot of work or a lot of expense or both. Using a programmable crank trigger ignition is perhaps the easiest way to do it, about the same cost as thorough recurve and you get to do it yourself.

And fitting the crank trigger wheel is easy ... unless you do it a difficult way. For some reason most choose the most difficult methods.

Posted on: 2013/4/10 19:11
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