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darrenwilson
Help!
#1
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Ok i have my sedan and when at ilde the charge light is on when i rev past 2000 rpm light goes off, have anyone had this problem and any part that is bad an need replacing?

Posted on: 2013/8/14 15:13
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'71 Four Door Sedan.
A15 Engine + Lighten Flywheel.
E15 Electronic Ignition 32/36 Weber EI Coil 4 into 2 into 1 Extractors 1 3/4 Exhaust Pipe Semi Flow Hotdog 60 series Gearbox H150 Diff.

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STILL LIVIN' THE 70'S LIFE !!
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dattodude
Re: Help!
#2
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Regulator has a wiring problem or needs replacing.

Posted on: 2013/8/14 22:32
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'71 Green 1200 Sedan CA18DET Project 99.98% complete
'71 White 1200 Sedan 20,000mi + A14T (twin 40DCOE 30/70 cam, extractors)
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darrenwilson
Re: Help!
#3
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Hey suspect its the alternator when i take off the negative terminal at the battery,engine shuts off completly any clues there?

Posted on: 2013/8/14 23:34
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'71 Four Door Sedan.
A15 Engine + Lighten Flywheel.
E15 Electronic Ignition 32/36 Weber EI Coil 4 into 2 into 1 Extractors 1 3/4 Exhaust Pipe Semi Flow Hotdog 60 series Gearbox H150 Diff.

Street Sleeper!

STILL LIVIN' THE 70'S LIFE !!
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dattodude
Re: Help!
#4
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Take the alternator and regulator to an auto electrician and get it checked.
Your latest check is not a valid test as far as I know.
If you have a voltmeter put it across the battery terminals.

It should show 13.8 to 14.4 volts with engine running. If you rev the engine, the voltage should remain steady. It should never go above 14.4v.

Posted on: 2013/8/14 23:59
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'71 Green 1200 Sedan CA18DET Project 99.98% complete
'71 White 1200 Sedan 20,000mi + A14T (twin 40DCOE 30/70 cam, extractors)
Website: http://www.shoeys.com
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ddgonzal
Re: Help!
#5
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If it goes over ~15 volts, it is a bad Voltage regulator. The exact voltage depends on temperature. In colder climates, higher voltages are OK.
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Darrin, the symptoms you describe (at idle the charge light is on, goes off at 2000 rpm) i have experienced several times. It may be caused by a loose fan belt, which will cost zero $$ to tighten. Or by worn brushes, which cost a few dollars to replace. Or by a bad alternator. I think it is less likely to be caused by the regulator.

Posted on: 2013/8/15 2:08
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darrenwilson
Re: Help!
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Thanks it all started when i was driving the light started flashing slowly then later now its staying on,i checked the fan belt and its tight

Posted on: 2013/8/15 11:54
_________________
'71 Four Door Sedan.
A15 Engine + Lighten Flywheel.
E15 Electronic Ignition 32/36 Weber EI Coil 4 into 2 into 1 Extractors 1 3/4 Exhaust Pipe Semi Flow Hotdog 60 series Gearbox H150 Diff.

Street Sleeper!

STILL LIVIN' THE 70'S LIFE !!
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ddgonzal
Re: Help!
#7
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Check the brushes, it's easy ...


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New vs. worn-to-the-limit brushes

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... r_Maintenance#Brush_Check

Posted on: 2013/8/15 19:46
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darrenwilson
Re: Help!
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Carried the alternator today to get it serviced,came back and put it back on car starts perfectly.turn key on starts engine charge lights goes off.now when i take off the negative battery pole car cuts off.fella told me to bring back teh car after i put the alternator back on.Anything to look out for?

Posted on: 2013/8/16 1:43
_________________
'71 Four Door Sedan.
A15 Engine + Lighten Flywheel.
E15 Electronic Ignition 32/36 Weber EI Coil 4 into 2 into 1 Extractors 1 3/4 Exhaust Pipe Semi Flow Hotdog 60 series Gearbox H150 Diff.

Street Sleeper!

STILL LIVIN' THE 70'S LIFE !!
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ddgonzal
Re: Help!
#9
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Quote:
now when i take off the negative battery pole car cuts off
That is not a valid test. the results are meaningless.

What you should look out for is that with engine running, the alternator is putting out 13.5 to 15 volts. That is good. Anything lower or higher is bad.

Posted on: 2013/8/16 2:01
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A14force
Re: Help!
#10
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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I had a 1200 where the light stayed on below 80kph. Then the battery died, leaving us stranded 4.5 hours from home on a monday night. New alternator cured it

Posted on: 2013/8/16 9:54
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