I'm worndering if anyone knows if dual SUs on a GX or similar manifold will fit on a US spec B210? The car is left hand drive and has a brake booster. I know that dual DCOEs will not fit, but I've never compared the setups side by side to see the difference in size.

I will eventually look into a remote mount for the master cyl to clean up the engine bay, but that will be close to the end of my build process.

I do not think they will fit; on my 1200 The front most of the brake reservoir need to be a remote type to clear the velocity stack. Measure the depth of the booster to the firewall, the rear most carb on the GX set up is roughly between cylinder 3 and 4. I no longer have a GX set up but one of us could measure how far from the cylinder head it sticks out.

Tom

One of my reserve engines has them, they stick out a fair amount and their aircleaner is a long thing. With a cutting torch anything can be made to fit.

The question is how badly do you want it? The difference between the stock Hitachi carb and stock dual su carbs was only a few horsepower.

The A series engine is a tiny thing, but a cheap and easy solution for more power is to just bolt in a larger engine& transmission. A driveline shop will splice driveshafts for you. They usually charge me $100 (only labor as long as you have a driveshaft end to fit the transmission)for that( they generally come free with the tranny).

Thank you for the tips. The B210 will be moved to my house this weekend so I will measure everything. I figured that the dual SU setup wouldn't fit but I've never seen SUs up close so I didn't know how large they were.

As for cutting, I prefer not to cut my firewall. Eventually I will either move the master under the dash or I will spend the extra cash for the universal wilwood pedal box and masters.

Eventually I may choose to do a swap, but I really want to spend some time figuring out what the a-series has to offer. I'm starting with a decent setup. My B210 has an A15 with H89 head. I have a modest goal of running 5-9psi of boost from a screw supercharger through it, but that is a long way off.

For now I just need to decide on a carb setup because the stock hitachi is completely shot. It looks like the most viable options are either a single DCOE or a 32/36 DGV. I know the DGV will hold me back once I start building so I was looking for a better alternative using SUs. Thanks for all of your input. One day I hope to have the money and time to fit a CA18DET in the B210 and move the A15 setup into a 1200, but I have to find a 1200 first :P

What does the A-series have to offer? 0-60 mph time in 20 seconds (stock) or 0-60 in 17 seconds (heavily modded).

Stock KA24 will do 14 to 15 seconds 1/4 mile time in a B210. That's your best bang for the buck, no cutting required. If you use the right transmission it bolts in with stock B210 driveshaft.

DD! Howdy. I think I spoke to you a few times on Ratsun as well. The KA is a very attractive option mostly because of the abundance of parts over the CA. Plus, from what I've heard, a mild NA KA will produce the same power is a more streetable power band than a heavily moded CA.

My only issue with any swap at this time is that I can't devote a huge amount of time to doing a swap yet. Normally I would have three days off a week to fool with my projects, so in 1-2 months the swap could be complete and I'd have the bugs worked out, but with the holidays I'm working 6 days a week till January. I know that I want to build the A15, but the reason behind that is I want a 1200 sedan to drop it in.

Realisticly, I'm probably not going to have more than 120hp with the A15 even if I supercharge it. I don't plan on spending a fortune on the internals or anything, but my build will probably cost 5-600 more than a straight KA swap with about half the power and probably less than half the torque. It is a sad number since I have the heavier 4 door model B210, but I can achieve this more easily for the time being. As long as I get to tinker with the car and have a little fun, I'll be happy.

On a side note, I find it funny that a $600 car is going to cost about 3000 to finish :P

You would not have to cut its firewall, the aircleaner is about the length of the engine but sticks way out. I'll measure it for you today.

Timewise, plugging in an already running engine is way faster than modifying an engine and fixing what is wrong.

Measurements would be great. If you get a chance please measure how far the SUs stick out without the air cleaner also. With my brake booster being in the way I was thinking I may have to run a smaller style air cleaner.

Need a Sedan you say??? I have a 1200 sedan racecar project, I have the title for it and it's free for the taking, no idea of cost to ship from Vegas to you.

It's down to the bare shell for the most part but I have all the glass doors etc. I bought it to rob the H190 housing and suspension bits out of. You could use the B210 as a donor for the missing running gear..........or find a cheap rusty 1200 to use as a parts car.

I do have the front coil over struts from the car but I would want actual money for those (I'm hoarding them as a spare pair)


Tom

Tom that would be awesome. I sent you a PM. I'm not sure about the shipping either but we might be able to figure that one out.