Decided to go rotary for the 1000 coupe and chose an S5 13b 6 port with turbo centre plate with the mounts being in the middle of the block like on a normal engine.
This means Ill be mounting it to the crossmember since Harry made me see the significance and strength of using the crossmember to transfer the force to.
However Id like to see rotor dattos with any sort of crossmember (thanks VL) to get an idea on mounts if possible.
Otherwise any other ideas about mounting a rotor Smac, Maddtimo???

I don't know why, but putting a high tech (6-port turbo) rotary in a 1000 doesn't seem like a real bad idea at this moment.

You'll certainly be lifting the inside wheel on the track. Maybe even lifting both when drag racing on slicks. With a couple of big mufflers, I figure it'll sound less like a rotary.

Sorry that I'm no help with the mounts, I expect it'll be quite far forward of the original mounts. You might have to make up another crossmember just for the engine. Using a piece of steel tube to stop crushing of the subframe. As per "light vehicle mod guidelines". You might even be able to use some of the original RX7 mounts?

With 1000s, as they don't have MacPh struts, is the engine crossmember dual functioned like the 1200 one? i.e. 1. to hold the lower arms, and 2. to hold the engine?

If it's only there to hold the engine, then moving it shouldn't be a problem.

This transplant would be unregisterable in NSW, but it'll be quite a weapon. I hope to see it at an event in the future.

Cheers,
Chris

Well I had a look at the 2 rotary 1000's and the mount setup won't help you. They both use a solid engine plate across the front of the engine locating on the 2 chassis rails in line with the rearward bumber mount bolt.
So no good for street

Centre mounting it sounds fine to me, I would look at designing a pair of mounts that incorporate an angle mount style rubber mount. I don't know what mount to use but a quick scan round a wreckers should give you some ideas. Even a pair of the old RX7 round ones could be used I suppose....

Ive measured all distances and the engine will fit nicely in with the centre mounts onto the crossmember. The only problem will be the gearbox and unfortunately the tunnel has to go cause its made for a 4kg gearbox.
I could easily go front mounts by changing the alloy front cover to an earlier 13b setup but after measuring the engine it seems to be less material involved, less engineering but more strength. There are now Rotaflow (especifically designed for rotor pulses or explosions more like it) mufflers that keep the sound down to the needed level and running in conjunction with a supertrapp, Im hoping for under 85 dbls. The 6 port will only make about 150 at the wheels with a well ported turbo type centre plate, 48IDA with 6 port weber manifold and tuned exhaust. Enough for what I need to excape some embarrasment on supersprints.
Yes the whole front suspension and engine mount are integral datodude, you can check out some pics of stevos1000 engine bay in the pic section. As for streetability and torque down low the 6 port has good manners compared to the more powerful 4 ports. In Victoria the sky (or wallet) is the limit which is lucky compared to NSW. Ill try sourcing some series 5 engine mounts to go with the bolt up holes and mole my way through the wreckers for something to mod or make new something to go with them.
Still smac some of us would like to see your rotor1200

Personally, I'm using the timing cover mount with my 13b. This way, you can pretty much use a bar that goes from rail to rail on the chassis.

I still have to mock up a few rubber mounts to absorb a bit of the movement, but you'll find that the engine will be quite smooth and free of vibration.

That's probably not much help to you considering I have a 1200. If you do decide to go for a 12a turbo timing cover on your engine so you can mount it at the front, make sure you either use a bit of premix in your fuel, or work out another way to get your oil metering pump to function as the new cover won't have the provisions for the stock item.

Leigh

I have never used the centre mounts so I can't help you out on those.

I have always used the front mounts, and have achieved this by using either a 12A turbo front cover or by simply welding an aluminium plate across the front cover and then drilling and tapping it.

If you are mounting these on the chassis rail be sure to weld some reinforcing bars into the inside of the chassis rail so that the torque of the motor won't bend them, and bolt the mounts, don't weld them. I've seen people weld engine mounts to chassis rails and the welds just break.

I've posted up some photos of engine mounts on a series 1 RX7, with a series 4 13B turbo

here

here

andhere

I took these in the dark, so if they are no good let me know and I'll take some better ones

Checking out MadTimo's pics and it's got me thinking.

Because I am using the front mount, I got hold of a spare coupe cross member and cut the mounts off. This way thee engine bay is neater and the 13b won't hit on anything. With this in mind, I thought I might grab another 1200 cross member and cut the mounts off it as well. This way I could drill and tap some holes further forward of the stock cross member and mount the new one.

Most rotor workshops sell aftermarket rx3 cross members that come in pieces, i.e the cross member, the rubber mounts, and the metal mounts which you weld on yourself. If you could find a workshop that was willing to sell you just the metal mounts and the rubber mounts, youd be able to mock up your own factory mazda looking cross member!

Now, does anyone know if the chassis rail are the same width from the firewall through to the radiator!

Something to think about.

Quote:
On my ute they are the same width from the firewall through to 50mm in front of the front engine xmember bolt, then they widen, only on the inner edge, and start to come inboard up to the front lower tie bar.