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| Datsun 1200 wiring is relatively uncomplicated. | Datsun 1200 wiring is relatively uncomplicated. | ||
| + | Also see: [[Wiring Diagram]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | = Wire color codes = | ||
| WARNING: Wire colors can vary by year, model and country. Please double-check the wiring in your Datsun 1200 before connecting parts according to this article. You don't want to burn something up! Use a voltmeter or test light to confirm the circuit behavior. | WARNING: Wire colors can vary by year, model and country. Please double-check the wiring in your Datsun 1200 before connecting parts according to this article. You don't want to burn something up! Use a voltmeter or test light to confirm the circuit behavior. | ||
| - | + | <table class='wiki_table' cellspacing='2'> | |
| - | == Wire color codes == | + | <tr><td>Code</td><td>Color</td></tr> |
| - | <table border=1 borderwidth=1 bordercolor=black cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2><tr><td>B</td><td>Black</td></tr><tr><td>W</td><td>White</td></tr><tr><td>R</td><td>Red</td></tr><tr><td>Y</td><td>Yellow</td></tr><tr><td>G</td><td>Green</td></tr><tr><td>L</td><td>Blue</td></tr></table> | + | <tr><td>B</td><td>Black</td></tr> |
| + | <tr><td>W</td><td>White</td></tr> | ||
| + | <tr><td>R</td><td>Red</td></tr> | ||
| + | <tr><td>Y</td><td>Yellow</td></tr> | ||
| + | <tr><td>G</td><td>Green</td></tr> | ||
| + | <tr><td>L</td><td>Blue</td></tr> | ||
| + | </table> | ||
| Wires with two codes: The first letter is the wire color, the second is the stripe color. Example:<blockquote>BW - Black wire with White stripe</blockquote> | Wires with two codes: The first letter is the wire color, the second is the stripe color. Example:<blockquote>BW - Black wire with White stripe</blockquote> | ||
| + | = Wiring Harnesses = | ||
| + | For the main wiring looms, see [[Wiring Harness]] | ||
| - | == Battery & Main Wiring == | + | = Battery & Main Wiring = |
| <b>Battery</b> has two wires, of course: | <b>Battery</b> has two wires, of course: | ||
| - | * Positive (+). Stock cable is RED. This connects directly to the starter's large connector. A smaller wire runs bout six inches from the terminal to the Fusible Link. See below. | + | * Positive Cable (+). Stock cable is RED. This connects directly to the starter's large connector. A smaller wire runs bout six inches from the terminal to the Fusible Link. See below. |
| - | * Negative (-, aka earth/ground). Stock cable is BLACK with Yellow stripe. It connects directly to the engine block at the oil pump. The engine end of this cable also has a smaller black wire. This is the <b>main body ground</b> and connects to the body at the Horn bolt</ul> | + | * Negative Cable (-, aka earth/ground). Stock cable is BLACK with Yellow stripe. It connects directly to the engine block at the timing cover. The engine end of this cable also has a smaller black wire. This is the <b>main body ground</b> and connects to the body at the Horn bolt |
| - | + | ||
| == Main Wiring == | == Main Wiring == | ||
| - | There are two <b>important</b> main wires: | + | There are three <b>important</b> main wires: |
| - | * body ground wire. This goes from the engine end of the Negative battery cable to the body. It's bolted down at the horn bolt. Without this weird problems can happen. | + | # Main ground wire (big battery cable). This bolts to the engine timing cover |
| - | * Red wire at battery '+' terminal. This connects to the Fusible Link ("Main Fuse") about six inches from the battery<blockquote><hr>WARNING: Do not replace fusible link with a solid wire, or you risk burning up the entire wiring system ... If the fuse blows, figure out why before replacing it. Was there a short in the system, or did it simply overheat due to corroded contacts?<hr></blockquote> | + | # Body ground wire. This goes from the engine end of the Negative battery cable to the body. It's bolted down at the horn bolt. Without this weird problems can happen. |
| + | # Red wire at battery '+' terminal. This connects to the [[Fusible Link]] ("Main Fuse") about six inches from the battery<blockquote><hr>WARNING: Do not replace fusible link with a solid wire, or you risk burning up the entire wiring system ... If the fuse blows, figure out why before replacing it. Was there a short in the system, or did it simply overheat due to corroded contacts?<hr></blockquote> | ||
| - | Use a "FUL 0.5mm2" or better fuse-link. This goes between the battery and the main wiring harness (which also feeds the Alternator output "A" terminal) | + | Ground/Earth main connections |
| + | <br>{{Album|21177}} | ||
| + | Make sure they cables are not damaged, and that they are securely fastened. If they are loose, remove and carefully inspect for corrosion. Clean thoroughly if possible, replace if necessary. This original system will fully support all stock electrical loads. Extra earth/ground wires are not needed -- if the stock wire is in place, clean and undamaged. | ||
| - | <b>Improvements</b> | + | Ground cable. Notice the smaller black wire on the Eye end |
| + | <br>{{Photo|r41847922darumasan0124-img600x450-1.jpg|Datsun%201200/Parts2}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Fusible Link == | ||
| + | This goes between the battery and the main wiring harness (which also feeds the [[Alternator]] output "A" terminal) | ||
| + | |||
| + | <blockquote>The large POS battery cable only feeds the starter. All other power comes from the Fusible Link.</blockquote> | ||
| + | |||
| + | See main article: [[Fuse Box#Fusible Link|Fusible Link]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{Album!|16498}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Fuse Box == | ||
| + | In addition to the main fuse wire in the engine compartment, there is a main fuse box under the dashboard. | ||
| + | |||
| + | See main article: [[Fuse Box]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{Album!|19667}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Improvements == | ||
| # Relocating battery to back of car. Advantages: | # Relocating battery to back of car. Advantages: | ||
| #* Make room in engine compartment | #* Make room in engine compartment | ||
| #* Balance weight of car | #* Balance weight of car | ||
| #*: 1200s are nose-heavy, so moving the 28-40 lb battery to the back helps. You need heavy-gauge cable, larger than stock due to the long lenght. Buy a kit with a sealed box, so fumes don't enter car | #*: 1200s are nose-heavy, so moving the 28-40 lb battery to the back helps. You need heavy-gauge cable, larger than stock due to the long lenght. Buy a kit with a sealed box, so fumes don't enter car | ||
| - | # Installing a modern new-fangled ground wire "System". There are two opinions:<blockquote>AFRacer:<hr>The grounding wire kits that people are putting on newer cars DO help out, and in many cases add power! I was a nonbeliever at first until I saw them used and they did add power and when I tore apart my 180SX I understood why it would add power. There are LOTS of electrical parts on newer cars, especially with EFI and distributorless ignitions ...<br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=14347&forum=1 read more]<hr></blockquote><blockquote>ddgonzal:<hr>You've seen the ads where you install many grounds wires all over the car, sometimes using 'gold' connectors. They don't add horsepower. Not even new cars use this. There are advantages: They do make troubleshooting extremly complex wiring (like in a Mercedes with 47 computers) easier. My advice is don't waste your money on this. <p> [edit:] After reading AFRacer's report above, I wonder if the B110 simply needs a better ground wire. The unibody is a large conductor so there is no problem there, but the stock ground wire is 1) kinda small and 2) in a place where corrosion can cause problems. Try using a thicker wire, grounding the battery and engine to the unibody in a better way (use a thick wire and good connections).<hr></blockquote> | + | # Installing a modern new-fangled ground wire "System". There are two opinions:<blockquote>AFRacer:<hr>The grounding wire kits that people are putting on newer cars DO help out, and in many cases add power! I was a nonbeliever at first until I saw them used and they did add power and when I tore apart my 180SX I understood why it would add power. There are LOTS of electrical parts on newer cars, especially with EFI and distributorless ignitions ...<br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=14347&forum=1 read more]<hr></blockquote><blockquote>ddgonzal:<hr>You've seen the ads where you install many grounds wires all over the car, sometimes using 'gold' connectors. They don't add horsepower. Not even new cars use this. There are advantages: They do make troubleshooting extremly complex wiring (like in a Mercedes with 47 computers) easier. My advice is don't waste your money on this. <br><br> [edit:] After reading AFRacer's report above, I wonder if his B110 simply needed a better ground wire. The unibody is a large conductor so there is no problem there, but the stock ground wire is 1) kinda small and 2) in a place where corrosion can cause problems. Fitting a thicker wire, grounding the battery and engine to the unibody in a better way (use a thick wire and good connections).</blockquote> |
| + | |||
| + | = Ignition Switch = | ||
| + | The ignition switch bolts to the back of the key cylinder. There is a rectangular wire connector attached to it. | ||
| + | |||
| + | See [[Ignition Switch#Wiring|Ignition Switch Wiring]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | = Alternator & Regulator = | ||
| + | See main article: [[Alternator Wiring]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | = Clock = | ||
| + | See Main Article: [[Clock#Wiring]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{ThumbH!|13939}} {{ThumbH!|13937}} {{ThumbH!|13938}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | = Headlights = | ||
| + | See [[Headlight Wiring]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | = Heater = | ||
| + | See [[Heater Wiring]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | = Running Lights, Turn Signals, etc = | ||
| + | See [[Lamp Wiring]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | = Tachometer = | ||
| + | See main article: [[Tachometer Wiring]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | = Ignition Coil & Distributor = | ||
| + | The stock 1200 [[coil]] -- as with nearly all pre-electronic ignition systems -- uses a [[Coil|Ballast resistor]] to drop the voltage supplied to the coil. All 1200s used a ballast resistor until the 1990 models. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Ballast resistor is located on the right-side Strut tower (#1 in this photo) | ||
| + | <br>{{Album|14969}} | ||
| + | <br>The resistor is just above the coil, and is a white ceramic thing about 2-1/2 inches long. | ||
| + | |||
| + | NOTE: The 1973 [[Wiring Diagram]] doesn't show a resistor, but it definitely has one. | ||
| + | <table class='wiki_table'> | ||
| + | <tr><td>Ballast Resistor</td><td>Color</td><td>Connects To</td></tr> | ||
| + | <tr><td>ballast resistor (non-coil side)</td><td>BW</td><td>IG terminal of ignition switch</td></tr> | ||
| + | <tr><td>ballast resistor (coil side, dual-terminal side</td><td>BW<br>BR</td><td>BR wire to R (START) terminal of ignition switch\*<br>(and)<br>BW to coil '+' terminal</td></tr> | ||
| + | <tr><td>Coil</td><td>Color</td><td>Connects To</td></tr> | ||
| + | <tr><td>Coil '+'</td><td>BW</td><td>to ballast resistor dual-connector side</td></tr> | ||
| + | <tr><td>Coil '-'</td><td>B</td><td>to distributor points</td></tr> | ||
| + | </table>\*The coil is supplied full battery voltage during cranking. Hence "R" terminal on ignition switch supplies V+ to coil. | ||
| + | {{Album|23244}} | ||
| + | <br>NOTE: all the wires indicate are colored BW (black w/white stripe). | ||
| - | == Alternator Upgrade == | + | Does your engine start when cranking but immediately die when you release the key to the ON (running) position? Then your resistor is bad or wired incorrectly. As you can see from the diagram, START of the ignition switch supplies full voltage bypassing resistor. |
| - | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=5088 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/5088.jpg] Alternator Comparison & swap info | + | |
| + | == 1990 Sunny Truck == | ||
| + | From October 1989, Sunny Truck uses electronic ignition and computerized carburetor. | ||
| - | === Internal Regulator Alternator === | + | Coil |
| - | If you install a newer Datsun alternator with internal-regulator: | + | BW: unknown. Not needed for old carburetor (non ECU) |
| - | * disconnect the voltage regulator | + | BR: Coil + terminal |
| - | * On the B110 regulator harness that goes down to the engine, connect WB wire of connector to WR wire of connector: | + | |
| - | * WR <--> WB | + | |
| - | * [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=7441 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/7441.jpg] wiring jumper | + | |
| - | * Logically, you are connecting the "L" (Light) of new alternator to "L" (Light) of the wiring harness. Be sure to use the original Datsun 1200 wiring harnesses. Only one jumper wire is needed. | + | |
| + | Distributor | ||
| + | BW: Coil + terminal | ||
| + | L: Coil - terminal | ||
| - | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=7440 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/7440.jpg] wiring diagram | + | = Starter Motor = |
| + | Starter just has two wires: | ||
| + | * Big wire: battery '+' terminal | ||
| + | * Small BY wire: 'S' terminal of ignition switch | ||
| + | On automatic cars, the starter 'S' wire (small wire) goes through the "Neutral Switch" ([[Inhibitor Switch]]). | ||
| - | === More Swaps === | + | {{Photo!|20828.jpg}} {{PhotoH|20824.jpg|Datsun%201200/wiki|278}} |
| - | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=548 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/548.jpg] Ford Falcon EA Alternator | + | |
| - | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=464 EA falcon mounting diagram] | + | Late engine swap into B110 |
| + | <br>{{Photo!|562.jpg}} | ||
| + | R battery positive cable | ||
| + | S (BY wire) starter solenoid | ||
| + | D (B wire)distributor side (points type) | ||
| + | leave unconnected for electronic ignition | ||
| + | ? YW temp sensor? or YB oil pressure | ||
| + | NOTE: If you draw power off the POS terminal (as in this photo with all the extra wires), make sure they are fused, as the POS cable is unfused and therefore has no fire protection (see [[Fusible Link]]). | ||
| - | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=4489 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/4489.jpg] Bosch of Australia internal-regulated Alternator | + | = Choke And Carburetor = |
| + | See: | ||
| + | * [[Choke Operation and Adjustment#Wiring|Eletric Choke Wiring]] | ||
| + | * [[Anti-diesel valve]] | ||
| + | = Interior Lamps = | ||
| + | Here's the kinds of smaller lights (other than the headlights) that a Datsun 1200 uses. | ||
| - | [http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/datsun210/photos/browse/1240 Chrysler alternator upgrade on Yahoo! Clubs Datsun 210] | + | {{Thumb|5021}} Lights (click for larger size and Details) |
| + | {{Thumb|23129}} [[Room Lamp]] | ||
| - | [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=6716 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/6716.jpg] Alternator tension rod makes adjustments easy |
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