Datsun 1200 wiring is relatively uncomplicated.
WARNING: Wire colors can vary by year, model and country. Please double-check the wiring in your Datsun 1200 before connecting parts according to this article. You don't want to burn something up! Use a voltmeter or test light to confirm the circuit behavior.
Also see: Wiring Diagram
Wire color codes
BW - Black wire with White stripe
Battery & Main Wiring
Battery has two wires, of course:
- Positive (+). Stock cable is RED. This connects directly to the starter's large connector. A smaller wire runs bout six inches from the terminal to the Fusible Link. See below.
- Negative (-, aka earth/ground). Stock cable is BLACK with Yellow stripe. It connects directly to the engine block at the oil pump. The engine end of this cable also has a smaller black wire. This is the main body ground and connects to the body at the Horn bolt
There are three important main wires:
- Main ground wire (big battery cable). This bolts to the engine timing cover
- Body ground wire. This goes from the engine end of the Negative battery cable to the body. It's bolted down at the horn bolt. Without this weird problems can happen.
- Red wire at battery '+' terminal. This connects to the Fusible Link]] ("Main Fuse") about six inches from the battery
WARNING: Do not replace fusible link with a solid wire, or you risk burning up the entire wiring system ... If the fuse blows, figure out why before replacing it. Was there a short in the system, or did it simply overheat due to corroded contacts?
Make sure they cables are not damaged, and that they are securely fastened. If they are loose, remove and carefully inspect for corrosion. Clean thoroughly if possible, replace if neccesary. This original system will fully support all stock electrical loads.
This goes between the battery and the main wiring harness (which also feeds the Alternator output "A" terminal)
See main article: Fusible Link
In addition to the main fuse wire in the engine compartment, there is a main fuse box under the dashboard.
See main article: Fuse Box
- Relocating battery to back of car. Advantages:
- Make room in engine compartment
- Balance weight of car
- 1200s are nose-heavy, so moving the 28-40 lb battery to the back helps. You need heavy-gauge cable, larger than stock due to the long lenght. Buy a kit with a sealed box, so fumes don't enter car
- Installing a modern new-fangled ground wire "System". There are two opinions:
The grounding wire kits that people are putting on newer cars DO help out, and in many cases add power! I was a nonbeliever at first until I saw them used and they did add power and when I tore apart my 180SX I understood why it would add power. There are LOTS of electrical parts on newer cars, especially with EFI and distributorless ignitions ...
You've seen the ads where you install many grounds wires all over the car, sometimes using 'gold' connectors. They don't add horsepower. Not even new cars use this. There are advantages: They do make troubleshooting extremly complex wiring (like in a Mercedes with 47 computers) easier. My advice is don't waste your money on this.
[edit:] After reading AFRacer's report above, I wonder if the B110 simply needs a better ground wire. The unibody is a large conductor so there is no problem there, but the stock ground wire is 1) kinda small and 2) in a place where corrosion can cause problems. Try using a thicker wire, grounding the battery and engine to the unibody in a better way (use a thick wire and good connections).
The ignition switch bolts to the back of the key cylinder. There is a rectangular wire connector attached to it.
Alternator & Regulator
See main article: Alternator Wiring
See Headlight Wiring
See Heater Wiring
Running Lights, Turn Signals, etc
See Lamp Wiring
See main article: Tachometer Wiring
Ignition Coil & Distributor
NOTE: The 1973 Wiring Diagram doesn't show a resistor, but it definitely has one.
|Ballast Resistor||Color||Connects To|
|ballast resistor (non-coil side)||BW||IG terminal of ignition switch|
|ballast resistor (coil side, dual-terminal side||BW|
|BR wire to R (START) terminal of ignition switch\*|
BW to coil '+' terminal
|Coil '+'||BW||to ballast resistor dual-connector side|
|Coil '-'||B||to distributor points|
Does your engine start when cranking but immediately die when you release the key to the ON (running) position? Then your resistor is bad or wired incorrectly. As you can see from the diagram, START of the ignition switch supplies full voltage bypassing resistor.
1990 Sunny Truck
From October 1989, Sunny Truck uses electronic ignition and computerized carburetor.
Coil BW: unknown. Not needed for old carburetor (non ECU) BR: Coil + terminal
Distributor BW: Coil + terminal L: Coil - terminal
Starter just has two wires:
Choke And Carburetor
Here's the kinds of smaller lights (other than the headlights) that a Datsun 1200 uses.