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[Datsun 1200 encyclopedia]

Template:Boost survival

(Difference between revisions)

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Revision as of 06:18, 17 July 2018
ddgonzal (Talk | contribs)

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<blockquote>[{{Post|221098}} frankthedolphintrainer]: its been proven by a few members already that stock bottom ends can handle massive boost. i still run 15.6 psi on my daily and have had no problems</blockquote> <blockquote>[{{Post|221098}} frankthedolphintrainer]: its been proven by a few members already that stock bottom ends can handle massive boost. i still run 15.6 psi on my daily and have had no problems</blockquote>
-<blockquote>[{{Post|221143}} about Yatala 240hp A-series]: rods ARE stock because he raves about there original quality and strength - he mentioned he was expecting it to throw a rod but it hasnt so he likes the standard rods</blockquote>+<blockquote>[{{Post|221143}} about 240hp A-series]: rods ARE stock because he raves about there original quality and strength - he mentioned he was expecting it to throw a rod but it hasnt so he likes the standard rods</blockquote>
But don't let the engine ping (detonatation):<blockquote>[{{Post|221128}} steveo]: in a standard bottom end ... [with] a crappy tuning it leaned out up high and pinged like crazy at that amount of boost ... I had trouble with 'rolling' the ring lands above 15psi</blockquote> But don't let the engine ping (detonatation):<blockquote>[{{Post|221128}} steveo]: in a standard bottom end ... [with] a crappy tuning it leaned out up high and pinged like crazy at that amount of boost ... I had trouble with 'rolling' the ring lands above 15psi</blockquote>
Everything about having an engine survive under boost is the "tuning" (control over the fuel burn) Everything about having an engine survive under boost is the "tuning" (control over the fuel burn)
 +* injection - complete fuel control is easier to achieve than with carburetion. Don't ever let it go lean!
 +* ignition - complete spark control (limit the advance so there is no detonation/pinging)
* wastegate - no spikes. An external gate may work better * wastegate - no spikes. An external gate may work better
-* injection - complete fuel control is easier to achieve than with carburetion 
-* ignition - complete spark control (no detonation/pinging) 
* temperatures: * temperatures:
 +** Big enough radiator to support the HP made
** keeping air charge cool (to avoid detonation) ** keeping air charge cool (to avoid detonation)
** keeping combustion temps cool (to avoid detonation) by rich mixture or by water injection or by lowering the compression ratio ** keeping combustion temps cool (to avoid detonation) by rich mixture or by water injection or by lowering the compression ratio
** keeping the turbo bearing cool ** keeping the turbo bearing cool
-* Large enough plenum and single throttle body for volume airflow (blowing air through restricted manifolds heats up the air charge) 
* exactly perfect AFR (air/fuel ratio) for complete even burning. Under full boost this means an unusually rich ratio to keep the charge cool and avoid detonation. Note that stoich ratio (14.7) is not ideal for either power nor fuel economy but is used only to enable [[Emission_Controls#Catalytic_Convertor|catalytic conversion]] * exactly perfect AFR (air/fuel ratio) for complete even burning. Under full boost this means an unusually rich ratio to keep the charge cool and avoid detonation. Note that stoich ratio (14.7) is not ideal for either power nor fuel economy but is used only to enable [[Emission_Controls#Catalytic_Convertor|catalytic conversion]]

Current revision

POST frankthedolphintrainer: its been proven by a few members already that stock bottom ends can handle massive boost. i still run 15.6 psi on my daily and have had no problems
POST about 240hp A-series: rods ARE stock because he raves about there original quality and strength - he mentioned he was expecting it to throw a rod but it hasnt so he likes the standard rods
But don't let the engine ping (detonatation):
POST steveo: in a standard bottom end ... [with] a crappy tuning it leaned out up high and pinged like crazy at that amount of boost ... I had trouble with 'rolling' the ring lands above 15psi

Everything about having an engine survive under boost is the "tuning" (control over the fuel burn)

  • injection - complete fuel control is easier to achieve than with carburetion. Don't ever let it go lean!
  • ignition - complete spark control (limit the advance so there is no detonation/pinging)
  • wastegate - no spikes. An external gate may work better
  • temperatures:
    • Big enough radiator to support the HP made
    • keeping air charge cool (to avoid detonation)
    • keeping combustion temps cool (to avoid detonation) by rich mixture or by water injection or by lowering the compression ratio
    • keeping the turbo bearing cool
  • exactly perfect AFR (air/fuel ratio) for complete even burning. Under full boost this means an unusually rich ratio to keep the charge cool and avoid detonation. Note that stoich ratio (14.7) is not ideal for either power nor fuel economy but is used only to enable catalytic conversion