![[Datsun 1200 encyclopedia]](/wiki/upload/wiki.png)
| Revision as of 01:36, 27 January 2012 ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) <- Previous diff |
Current revision ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->Rear Axle) |
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| - | The stock 1200 suspension is non-adjustable for Camber. If the camber is out-of-specification, the factory recommends replacing parts. A good suspension man can sometimes bend the strut housing to correct for bad camber. But for upgrading to modern camber settings, there is no provision in the stock parts. | + | Checking camber is part of [[Wheel alignment|Alignment]] for proper tyre wear or to change handling characteristics. |
| + | |||
| + | = Overview = | ||
| + | The stock 1200 suspension is non-adjustable for Camber. If the camber is out-of-specification, the factory recommends replacing parts. A good suspension man can sometimes bend the strut housing to correct for bad camber. | ||
| + | |||
| + | For upgrading to modern camber settings, there is no provision in the stock parts. Fitting | ||
| + | custom adjustable parts is needed. | ||
| = -VE Camber (Negative camber) = | = -VE Camber (Negative camber) = | ||
| - | 1.5 degrees negative camber can work well for racing or spirited driving. Large amounts of -VE are mainly for looks. For performance you want the tires parallel to the pavement. | + | 1.5 degrees negative camber can work well for racing or spirited driving. Large amounts of -VE are mainly for looks -- for performance you want the tread parallel to the pavement. But since the car leans in corners, having some negative camber keeps the tire tread parallel to the pavement even when leaning. |
| - | -VE can be achieved in various ways: | + | = Front = |
| + | Datsun 1200 is designed with non-adjustable front suspension, so a simple [[Wheel alignment]] will not change the camber angle. | ||
| - | * Slot the strut-top mounting points per the Nissan Competition suspension manual | + | -VE can be achieved in the front suspension with either method: |
| - | *: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=352 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/352.jpg][http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=355 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/355.jpg] | + | * Move the top of the strut. Slot the strut-top mounting points per the Nissan Competition suspension manual |
| + | * Use adjustable Camber Tops | ||
| - | * Redrill the crossmember mounting points | + | Alternatively, following methods increase the track, which may interfere with wide tyres and/or require flares |
| + | * Move the LCA mounting point in the crossmember | ||
| + | * Use a lengthened LCA, like the Nissan Competition units | ||
| + | * use a longer Ball Joint | ||
| + | As always after modifying the front suspension, the [[Toe-in]] must be re-adjusted to retain correct wheel alignment. | ||
| - | * install adjustable strut tops | + | == Move the Strut Top == |
| - | *: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=1249 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/1249.jpg][http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=1259 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/1259.jpg] | + | Slot the strut-top mounting points per the [[Datsun_1200_Competition_Suspension_Manual#Front_Camber_Adjustment|Nissan Competition suspension manual]] |
| + | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=352 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/352.jpg][http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=355 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/355.jpg] | ||
| + | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=348521#forumpost348521 discussion] | ||
| + | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=22690 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/22690.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=22691 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/22691.jpg] | ||
| - | * use longer bottom arm (e.g. B310 suspension arm). Or lengthen the arm, like this: | + | N13/N14 strut tops |
| - | *: [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=8030 http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/thumbs/8030.jpg] | + | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=22689 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/22689.jpg] |
| - | *: [http://datsun1200.com/uploads/newbb/thumbs/8427_4b0f59be0a461.jpg http://ddgonzal.members.winisp.net/getThumb.aspx?width=140&uri=http://datsun1200.com/uploads/newbb/thumbs/8427_4b0f59be0a461.jpg] | + | |
| + | == Camber Tops == | ||
| + | Install Aftermarket adjustable strut tops, which are adustable in the camber direction. | ||
| - | * Another way to get a longer arm is to use a longer [[Ball Joint]]. The A10 (Violet/Stanza/Auster/510) and some B310 models use a longer ball joint which fixes the bottom of the strut further outboard (more neg. camber). 1200 Truck 1976-up has the steering arms to match the original 1200 struts to the newer ball joint. Use 1976-up LCA (B210, B310 or 1200 ute/truck) which the longer ball joint will bolt to. | + | See main article: [[Camber Tops]] |
| - | See discussion [http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=38164&forum=1 Negative Camber] | + | <img size=400>http://datsun1200.com/uploads/newbb/thumbs/8427_4b0f59be0a461.jpg</img> |
| <blockquote><hr>adjustable strut tops ... only helps to get a little bit more camber and/or castor. To get [a large amount of] camber, you need to run smaller diameter springs, as well as the adjustable strut tops. With the standard springs, the available adjustment will be restricted inside the strut tower by the large original spring diameter.<hr></blockquote> | <blockquote><hr>adjustable strut tops ... only helps to get a little bit more camber and/or castor. To get [a large amount of] camber, you need to run smaller diameter springs, as well as the adjustable strut tops. With the standard springs, the available adjustment will be restricted inside the strut tower by the large original spring diameter.<hr></blockquote> | ||
| Small coilover type springs and adjustable strut tops are good for about 4.5 degree negative camber. | Small coilover type springs and adjustable strut tops are good for about 4.5 degree negative camber. | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Move the LCA == | ||
| + | Redrill or slot the crossmember mounting points for the [[Transverse_Link|LCA]] -- moving it outwards gain negative camber. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Slot | ||
| + | <br>{{Upload|8427_4b0f59ceb8ec5.jpg}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | K-MAC camber kit | ||
| + | <br>{{Album|22825}} {{Album|5387}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{Album|17917}} {{Album|17918}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Lengthened LCA == | ||
| + | To increase Track and Camber at the same time, use a longer [[Transverse_Link|bottom arm]]. | ||
| + | |||
| + | * Nissan Competition sold lengthened control arms -- 10MM longer for increased negative camber. See [[Racing_Suspension_System#B310]] | ||
| + | * Maddat sells adjustable arms. See [[Transverse_Link#Mad_Dat]] | ||
| + | * Or lengthen the arm, like this: | ||
| + | {{Album|8030}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | NOTE: B310/Stanza LCA is same length as 1200/120Y/Ute/B310/A10. All the same length. | ||
| + | |||
| + | retorally added 20mm | ||
| + | <br>{{Thumb|21875}} {{Thumb|21876}} {{Thumb|21877}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | BigV added 20mm | ||
| + | <br>{{Album|14525}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Longer Ball Joint == | ||
| + | Another way to push the bottom of the tyres out is to use a longer Ball Joint. The A10 and some B310 models use a longer ball joint which fixes the bottom of the strut further outboard (more neg. camber). | ||
| + | |||
| + | See main article: [[Transverse_Link#B310.2FA10|W50 Ball Joint]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/7978.jpg | ||
| + | |||
| + | = Rear Axle = | ||
| + | Negative camber can be achieved with the straight axles by cutting and welding. | ||
| + | |||
| + | This axle has 2.5 degrees negative camber with reportedly no problem over three years of driving. | ||
| + | <br>[{{Post|461926}} 2.5 degree camber rear axle] | ||
| + | <br>{{UploadPost|174_5493d0b1c8da7.jpg|461926}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{UploadPost|174_5493cff52ab33.jpg|461926}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{UploadPost|174_5493cfd9d2325.jpg|461926}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{UploadPost|174_5493d019f0a75.jpg|461926}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | {{UploadPost|174_5493d00a67169.jpg|461926}} | ||
| [[Category:Suspension Modifications]] | [[Category:Suspension Modifications]] | ||
Current revision
Checking camber is part of Alignment for proper tyre wear or to change handling characteristics.
Contents |
Overview
The stock 1200 suspension is non-adjustable for Camber. If the camber is out-of-specification, the factory recommends replacing parts. A good suspension man can sometimes bend the strut housing to correct for bad camber.
For upgrading to modern camber settings, there is no provision in the stock parts. Fitting custom adjustable parts is needed.
-VE Camber (Negative camber)
1.5 degrees negative camber can work well for racing or spirited driving. Large amounts of -VE are mainly for looks -- for performance you want the tread parallel to the pavement. But since the car leans in corners, having some negative camber keeps the tire tread parallel to the pavement even when leaning.
Front
Datsun 1200 is designed with non-adjustable front suspension, so a simple Wheel alignment will not change the camber angle.
-VE can be achieved in the front suspension with either method:
- Move the top of the strut. Slot the strut-top mounting points per the Nissan Competition suspension manual
- Use adjustable Camber Tops
Alternatively, following methods increase the track, which may interfere with wide tyres and/or require flares
- Move the LCA mounting point in the crossmember
- Use a lengthened LCA, like the Nissan Competition units
- use a longer Ball Joint
As always after modifying the front suspension, the Toe-in must be re-adjusted to retain correct wheel alignment.
Move the Strut Top
Slot the strut-top mounting points per the Nissan Competition suspension manual
discussion
N13/N14 strut tops
Camber Tops
Install Aftermarket adjustable strut tops, which are adustable in the camber direction.
See main article: Camber Tops
adjustable strut tops ... only helps to get a little bit more camber and/or castor. To get [a large amount of] camber, you need to run smaller diameter springs, as well as the adjustable strut tops. With the standard springs, the available adjustment will be restricted inside the strut tower by the large original spring diameter.
Small coilover type springs and adjustable strut tops are good for about 4.5 degree negative camber.
Move the LCA
Redrill or slot the crossmember mounting points for the LCA -- moving it outwards gain negative camber.
Slot
K-MAC camber kit
Lengthened LCA
To increase Track and Camber at the same time, use a longer bottom arm.
- Nissan Competition sold lengthened control arms -- 10MM longer for increased negative camber. See Racing_Suspension_System#B310
- Maddat sells adjustable arms. See Transverse_Link#Mad_Dat
- Or lengthen the arm, like this:
NOTE: B310/Stanza LCA is same length as 1200/120Y/Ute/B310/A10. All the same length.
retorally added 20mm
BigV added 20mm
Longer Ball Joint
Another way to push the bottom of the tyres out is to use a longer Ball Joint. The A10 and some B310 models use a longer ball joint which fixes the bottom of the strut further outboard (more neg. camber).
See main article: W50 Ball Joint
Rear Axle
Negative camber can be achieved with the straight axles by cutting and welding.
This axle has 2.5 degrees negative camber with reportedly no problem over three years of driving.
POST 2.5 degree camber rear axle
