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Mods Needed for Datsun 1200 race car
Published by: Davo1200 , On: Oct-10-2002
Mods Needed for Datsun 1200 race car
This topic was first raised by a Datsun1200.com member, Allan, or better known as Dragongoose, to find out what the 1200 drivers think is the best way of making a Datsun 1200 go from stock to race.
OK Our base car is the Datsun 1200 Coupe its completely Standard with an A12 engine, 4spd gearbox. Standard front Disc brakes and standard diff with rear drums. The interior is fitted out as per Factory. What Action is to be taken first??
Guidelines
·Fitment of fire extinguisher complying with Australian Standards 1841 (save that extinguishers which meet AS 1841.2 are not permitted). The extinguisher must be of at least 900 gram capacity, and BE SECURED VIA A STEEL BRACKET within easy reach of the driver. (Note: BCF/Halon extinguishers are now illegal).
·All loose objects must be removed from the vehicle.
·A supplementary return spring on each throttle.
·Be fitted with a flame or liquid proof bulkhead.
Quinn:
keep it simple. a14 block lightened balanced everything.road/ race cam. gas flowed ported and polished nisan gx head double valve springs. twin 40s. 4into1 big bore extractors. 5 speed sunny box. bluebird zxe struts adj. 280lb springs adj hight and potenza adj shocks. camber plates and lower arms etc. 10" vented disks and calipers (off zxe) all braded lines all nolathene. 13x7 minilights slicks. = 110hp rear wheels and 714kg (with 20 litres fuel). a good basic racer all easy to do and prety cheep.
Stirling-mac :
I have given this a lot of thought, and heres my idea of the perfect 1200 racecar...I would build 2, the first would be built using all the good stuff from the Nismo catalogue and feature steel panels and 13" Watanebe Minilite wheels. It would run a strong 1300cc A series with 45s and close ratio 5 speed. The only fibreglass panels would be the bubble flares and front and rear spoilers, and it would be covered in all the period decals. Now the other one would be totally radical, only the steel roof would remain from a standard car..it would have a full space frame chassis with unequal length A arm front suspension with alloy uprights and 14" discs with 6 pot calipers. The rear would house a Hewland 6 speed transaxle with 4 pots and 13" discs . The body would feature super wide Zakspeed style flares and all the panels would be composites of kevlar and carbon fibre.All the windows would be lexan. The powerhouse would be a twin turbo charged 4 litre Nissan V8 bored and stroked to 5 litres. Fuel injected of course and controlled by Motec computer. The wheels would have to be centre lock Simmons or BBS 17" rims
Rally a Coupe - Matt:
I LIKE THE COUPE BEST SO THATS WHAT THIS IS GOING TO BE KEEP IT LIGHT A 15 BORED OUT TO 2LTR AND RESLEAVED (IF POSSABLE) FORGED PISTONS, RODS ,CRANK ,G.T.i.R QUAD THROTTLE BODYS ,12:1 COMPRESSION RATIO ,MOTEC M8 COMPUTER,LIGHT FLY, PUNMATIC TITAINUIM VALVES , DRY SUMPED ,ELECTRIC DIZZY
NOW THE GEARBOX SUNNY 5 SPEED RIP THE GUTS OUT GET A CUSTOM DESINGED 6 SPEED HYDRAULIC SEQUENTIAL SHIFT TITAINUIM DRIVESHAFT CUT DOWN FORD 9 INCH DIFF
FRONT END BILSTIEN HIGHT ADJUSTABLE STRUTS ,CAMBER PLATES WILWOOD 4 POT CALIPERS VENTED SLOTTED DISC BUT NOT DRILLED ( AS THEY CRACK) 22MM SWAY BAR ROSE JOINTED BOTTOM ARMS AND CASTOR RODS NOLATHANE RIGHT THROUGH REAR END BILSTIEN UPRIGHTS WITN EXTRA LEAF PUT IN AND RESEAT - 5 DEGRES WILLWOOD 2 SPOTS AND SLOTTED AND VENTED DISC STEERING HIGH RATIO STEERING 1 TURN LOCK TO LOCK
NOW THE BODY SHELL LIGHTEN THE HELL OUT OF IT TO COMPESATE FOR THE SIX POINT CAGE KEVLAR DOORS BONNET BOOT FRONT GUARDS, REAR GUARDS , ALL WINOWS ARE NOW LEXIAN MR10
BEAR IN MIND IF YOU BUILD YOUR MOTOR RIGHT IT SHOULD HAVE 400 HP THAT IS THE MAXUIM YOU WILL EVER GET OUT OF A NA 2 LTR
RUN THE MOTOR IN BEST FOR 2000KMS AND USE FULLY SINTHETIC OIL AFTER THE FIRST OIL CHANGE GO TO TRACK ABSOLOUTLY RING ITS NECK
OK NOW IF FINISHED MY LITTLE DAY DREAM AND CRASHED BACK INTO REALTY
Scott:
The perfect Datsun 1200 race car. Now, there's quite a lot you can do with a standard Datsun 1200. Obviously. It's a simplistic design with a huge amount of potential.
Ok. So we have a stock standard 1200 coupe. Definitely the best decision for a race car. With its fastback shape, greater aerodynamics are achieved. Great choice, now lets get down to buisness.
Lets look at the big picture. We want a race car. Not a road car. So, the first thing we do is strip everything off the car back to bare metal and place it onto some jack stands. A decent size well-equiped workshop is ideal for this sort of procedure, but the backyard always works.
Ok, now what do we need? A plan. We need a Roll cage, Engine, Gearbox, Diff, Brakes, Suspension mods, Wheels, Tyres, Shockies, Gauges, Seat, harness, steering wheel and a fuel tank.
Pretty simple huh? No airconditioning I'm afraid!
I would start by seam welding the entire shell, fitting a role cage and painting it white and choose an engine. You've chosen an SR20det and has been sent to the engine guy for rebuilding.
First things first. Lets get it rolling again. Youve made your decision on the suspension. Were going to use all new bushes, ball joints, koni shock inserts, adjustable spring cup front struts with top camber adjustment, adjustable lower control arms, adjustable castor rods, adjustable sway bar, 10" rotors with four spot calipers. This is pretty standard on most race cars. Cool. Lets bolt those new 14" hotwires with racing slicks on the front!
OK. Now we need a diff. We want a race car so disc brakes are essential. Strength to cop a hammering on upchanges and down changes round corners must be taken into account. Also the engine itself will determine the diff size. As we've chosen an SR20det, we are expecting a figure of at least 200-250kw with mods, so a decent strength diff will be needed. If we want Nissan, an H190 works diff is the go. If not, Hilux cut, 10 bolt cut or some sort of solid diff with LSD and disc brakes will suit the purpose.
Before we can install the diff, we need suspension. Get the leaf springs reversed and lowered 1-5"- 2". Install with all new bushs. A modified rear spring link for ride height adjustment is also useful here.
Bolt in diff. Use standard shocky plates from the 1200 and modify to suit the size D-bolts you are using. Bolt in those brand new Koni adjustable shocks, chuck some wheels on and lower to ground.
Woohoo!! We have a rolling car!!!
That SR20det should be back from the engine guy now. Nice and clean with a little headwork, a new GT25 turbo, larger throttle body, new Motec computer, 3" dump, lightfly, new clutch wiring blah blah. Now lets fit the engine.
Modify the stock crossmember mounts to sit the SR20 as far back as possible. Some bashing or cutting might be needed to fit the 5 speed box and 3" dump pipe. Modify gearbox x member, sit engine into place for last time and fit tailshaft.
Sit back get a case of beer, look at car for at least 1-5 hours, get pissed and go over all your mods and check for imperfections. Or just check out what a awesome car the Datsun1200 is.
After a few days rest, wire up engine to computer, modify front to fit intercooler, pipework and radiator. Modify firewall for clutch cylinder. Hook up brake lines and fuel lines. Fit dry cell in boot. Fit any other part required to start engine. Now fit the interior.
Bolt in the Saas bucket seat, and harness. Fit all new gauges into a stock gutted dash and wire into harness. Bolt on steering wheel. Fit gear knob. Turn key. Hope.
With a bit of luck, the SR20 should be purring away.
Now we need all fibreglass panels, paint them all white and bolt on any flare kits or spoilers you decide to buy.
Hey now its looking like a race car!
Open door, get in, start engine and go for a drive. No burnouts! It needs running in! Drive for at least 600ks change oil then take to track and flog!! Whatever class this little beast is eligble for, it will kick ass.