Nothing like oldskool on oldskool.

Also consider what Billzilla.com has found with the 4age vs the 7age. The 7age has the longer stroke and narrow (modern style high angle racing styled ports) twin cam head, the narrowness is perfect for that extra bit of room for carbs, turbo or fiddling in general and easier to find. Just need to change the rods to bulkier ones.

Also look at an easy 160hp ahybrid for something different
http://te51levin.superjamie.net/streetdyno.html
Do you have another shell in the back?

Thanks Ill look into the 7age. Would still like to stay with dato power but bits are getting harder to get now. Really started out just wanting a nice ute to go for a cruise in on a Sunday. Now im talking to engineers to see just how far I can go ha ha. Oh yeh there is another one in the backround, I always try to get one or two spare cars when Im trying to put together a car you cant ever have enough bits and peices hey.

7aFe not aGe

F is the more emmision consious head and is designed for low to mid range power
G is the performance head, and as said is wider to allow for different valve angle, more top end power

stock 7afe makes about the same peak power as a first gen 4age but with more low end power
7age is the term used for a 7afe that has had a 4age head put on it

PIGDOG = WIN
but yeah they both still twin cam, just the fe head runs one cam via a belt then its geared to the 2nd one, whereas the ge head has one belt 2 cam pulleys
beat me to it

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Dammnit, you jumped me there. True there is no such engine as a 7AGE that came from the factory. It's a 7AFE with a 4AGE head on. They seem to have a habit of puking their conrods out the side of the block if you rev them to hard, though they do make nice NA power in that config. Not nearly as reliable as the 4AGE, in tuned form that is...

Also not a good base to work from if you want to go forced induction later on, bottom end not as strong as the standard 4AGE bits. You don't get a standard forged steel crank for it either.

i thought 7afe and 4age bottom ends were as strong as each other, whereas the 4agze is obviously stronger

or am i wrong in thinking that(ive had a whole 4 days experience reading about these motors to help a mate so its easily possible)

The 7AFE is still a strong bottom end , but the 4AGE comes standard with stronger rods, and the crank is forged steel and better balanced. If you hold a 7AFE and 4AGE crank next to each other you'll see that the 4AGE has 8 bolt holes where as the 7AFE has 6, you'll also see more factory balancing work done on the 4AGE item. EDIT: The only differences between the 4AGE and 4AGZE are the conrods and pistons. And even then if you hold the AGE and AGZE rods next to each other, you'd think they are the same, that's how little difference there is. Apparently the standard AGE rods are still good up to 2 bar boost, they are actually an advantage because they weigh slightly less...

I had a huge fight with a guy(only verbal) a while ago when I was rebuilding my motor. I was looking for a new(2nd hand) crank, and this guy was offering me one, but it was the 4AFE crank with the 6 bolt holes. The engine was obviously opened up at some point, probably due to running a bearing, and they replaced the crank with the cheaper AFE bit. He was trying to convince me that it was a AGE one, until I went home printed a factory picture of a 4AGE crank, and the 4AFE one, and showed it to him...

IMO dont bother fkn around with 7a. Fit a 20V 4age if you want N/A or turbo 4agze if you want boost.

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True yes. However, if you fit the "black top", don't rev it one bit harder than factory, otherwise you'll soon find yourself picking up pieces of rods and block from the road. The older "silver top" has slightly beafier rods, and can take a little more revs, but not much. You have to upgrade them internaly if you want to rev them much higer. I saw two 1400 bakkies with 20V's puke their #3 rods out in one night, on the starting line while warming up, because the guys were reving them something stupid. Also the VVTi on these engines only last for about 140K kilos, after which it has to be replaced.

I'd say stick with going 16V 4AGE to start of with, apparently easier to engineer in you neck of the woods too. You then have the right base to go forced induction if you want to, all you have to do is replace the pistons with 4AGZE ones, and you're good to go. The rods are plenty strong as mentioned earlier.

Thanks for all the info guys, my head is spinning now ha ha. I was actually thinking the 4age silver top engine was the one to go for. I think you have confirmed it for me. For now i was just going to go NA and then maybe further down the track 4agze think that is the biggest I can go legally with the 1000 ute anyway. I was going to flick the injection and make up a manifold for a couple of webers old sckool all the way ha ha.

Just as well, it's just that the 20V's water routing and stuff is very different from the 16V, plus the zorst manifolds differs too. So you're looking at two complete transplant jobs if you go 20v now and 4AGZE later. The 20V's dizzy is on the back of the head, which is not such an issue if you use 60-1 or something similar, otherwise you're looking at cutting a hole in your firewall.

If you're planning on going 4AGZE later, it's better to do a 16V 4AGE now, as they respond well to siddies, and their ignotion systems are much easier to hack for that kind of application.

Please understand that i'm not trying to make you fit either the 20V or 16V, it's always your choice, however I'm trying to point out the pros and cons of what you decide, and how it will affect your spending and effort later on.

By any means you're going to end up with a mean little machine no matter which AGE variant you fit. Here's a few pages with loads of 4AGe info on, which will guide you to make the right choice now.

http://www.billzilla.org/4agstock.htm
http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/phil.bradshaw/4AGE%20into%20RWD.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/8422/4age.htm

Once again thanks . You have been a great help. I talked to a mate who has worked on many 4age engines now. He recomended I go the 16 valve engine and we go nuts with that! Im going to start collecting a few old engines and experiment and see how we go. This project was going to take me about 6months to complete, now it could take a bit longer because the poor old ute is going to send me broke ha ha. Its all good, its all for the love of the dato!!!!

nice.....not much else to say. these wheels look perfect for the little thou....good work