Yep good idea, Its scary how quickly it can dump all its oil out the breathers.

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ineed one of these rwd water pipes for mine at the moment! any one know have one or know where to pick one up?

mines in a 1200 ute though

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You might be able to buy the housing from some spares shops. Ask for the 4AC waterpump housing. It's cheaper, but exactly the same as the RWD 4AGE ones(which are very scarce and might not even be available in the shops). The 4AGE pump then bolts onto the 4AC housing, which bolts onto the 4AGE block. Don't try to use the 4AC pump though, as it's neck is longer than the 4AGE ones, and the pulleys don't line up as a result.

Some of the 4AGE pumps have slightly higher impeller blades, and sometimes they foul on the 4AC housing as a result. You simply file them down until the pump turns freely, and you're set.

awesome info, thanks mate.

Cool, so 90% of you piping trouble is solved for the cooling system. Only thing about those engines is that their blocks aren't as strong as the later ones from 88 onwards, they don't have the same amount of strenthening ribs. You don't have to worry to much about that though, they are still tough as nails.

Also their big-ends and gudgeons are 2mm smaller than the latter models. That being 40mm and 18mm vs. 42mm and 20mm.

If you are going to open the motor up, do yourself a favour, and install a restrictor in the oil gallery that feeds oil to the head. Sometimes if you drive them at high revs for extended periods of time, they tend to fill the cam covers up with oil, and you might end up getting oil starvation. The hole is towards the front of the block under where the dizzy sits, and is 6mm. You can take it down to 3.5mm, and for extreme race conditions I have heard of people bringing it down as far as 1.5mm. Drill and tap the hole to take a grubscrew, which has been drilled out to the desired size.

Luckily the later model engines have exactly the same mounting holes and stuff, so if you want to change to one of them later, it's simply a bolt in change. All the parts are interchangeable, with the exception of the conrods and crank which has to match.

3Rotor, as far as I know, have seen, and have researched, none of the 16V 4AGE's has dizzys at the back of the head. They al sit on the zorst side, above the number one zorst port, if it has a dizzy that is. The only variation to this is where there might be a coilpack bolted to the rear of the head. Only the 20V's has the dizzy at the back of the head.

I think the fitment will be even easier to the 1000 than to the 1200. You don't have the strut towers to contend with for space, and there seems to be lots of space on the zorst side for a nice flowing turbo manifold...

Also it seems as if you have the RWD engine here, they were the only ones that had that long water inlet neck on the head, FWD variants have a short stumpy one that comes out at a much sharper angle. Unless you changed it for that item. Make sure you get the RWD waterpump too, it makes the plumbing much easier. On the RWD pump housing, the thermostat is contained in the housing, where as the FWD has a sepperate housing that bolts onto the engine holding the thermostat.

how is the carb to brake master clearance? And pity the outlet for your radiator is on the wrong side now.