Quote:No, no no. The anti-diesel valve goes to IGN+. The temp sender is a grounding device ...

Hi ddgonzal,
A grounding device? OK, i just thought that the the unit is powered by IGN+ it would be OK?
......

Must the the inlet manifold have all this heat going to it? I reckon you should trial it first - you may be suprised that with mild operation of the choke in the morning, i'm sure the extractors' heat will not be entirely lost and will send enough warmth up to the manifold.

Unless there isn't going to be ice etc forming around the inlet manifold i would of thought it would be fine?

Cheers

The temp sensor goes to ground to light up the light [or guage]. The other side of the light is + voltage -- not this side where you see the sensor connector. Someone will correct me if that's wrong.

The anti-diesel valve is a solenoid, so it needs IGN+ (always on while engine running, off when engine is off). I have studied the B210 wiring diagram about this and hooked one up myself.

You do not need the manifold heat. On the other hand it does have a big effect on first couple minutes of warmup. But a fat rich auto choke or a manual choke will work as well but with 1000 times more emissions.

The manifold heat (heat riser) does not prevent carb ice-up. In stock form the heat riser doesn't send much heat up there after the engine warms up. For anti-icing, a heated inlet air system is used -- not a problem in most areas of Australia, I reckon.

Thanks ddgonzal

The temp thing makes sense to me ... what circut did you 'tap in to' if any to power your solienoid?

With the inlet manifold, i know a heater riser or whatever WILL not PREVENT ice from building up on the inlet, howver my guess it would certailnly AID in the breakdown of such. I think is the only reason to have such an application i.e COLD climates..

Your right in saying than down south here NZ and Aus, we are lucky enough not to have to go to such extremes (from what i have heard anyway)

Cheers

Thanks ddgonzal

The temp thing makes sense to me ... what circut did you 'tap in to' if any to power your solienoid?

With the inlet manifold, i know a 'heater riser' WILL not PREVENT ice from building up on the inlet/carb, howver my guess is, it would certailnly AID in the breakdown of such.

I was trying to explain in my earlier post (below) that the only reason to have such an application eg.('chimneys',heat boxes or even 'bits of wood' as someone explained etc) would be for COLDER climates..

Your right in saying that down south here in NZ and Aus, we are lucky enough not to have to go to such extremes (from what i have heard anyway)

Would be great to here your thoughts on where/how you powered your anti-diesling solinoid..
Cheers

Quote:
What happened to your anti dieseling solenoid wire/power? On the US models, the anti-diesel sol, choke relay and something else(?) are connected together. There is a fuse, on the right side near the wiper motor, that powers them. It sticks out of the main wire harness.
I didn't know what that fuse was for untill after I ripped off the cylinder head trying to find out why my car would not idle.

Angelo, your 1200 is a 1973? 72's don't have an anti-diesel.

In any case, you can just wire the anti-disel valve to the + side of the ballast resistor.

Quote:

Hey thanks for that - great idea - Thankyou

that can't be good, especially as this motor is a pig of a thing in the cold anyway!!!
cheers for the tip, I may have to keep a look out for a webber.

you dont *need* a weber to fix it, just a mod or something would do the trick. you could probably cover the hole with either a piece of flat sheet metal (screwed onto the manifold) or even a bit of wood (ghetto). anything to stop air flooding into the hole in the bottom. if you had a brakebooster u would be stuffed as a bbooster uses a vacuum advance and gets its vacuum from the inlet manifold.

it made a big bad difference to my car with the hole there. it sucked.

I agree that you don't need a weber to fix that. The only reason I can think of why weber would run better without the exhaust heat is the jetting. Jet your Hitachi richer and with appropriate choking it should run fine when engine is cold.

You could make a sheet metal "riser" from one of the pipes up to the bottom of the intake. However, the original manifold has a thermo-spring controlled valve (after engine warms up, no heat is directed towards bottom of inlet manifold).

Another idea is to fit a heated air cleaner (like american 1200s). This won't help it warm up as fast as the stock heat riser, but will prevent icing at temps just above freezing.