Yes, totally disconnect the external regulator. It is no longer needed with the new (1980) style Datsun alternator.

See club wiki. The wire colors here are of course for B110, and may be different for B210. But the wiki has a wiring diagram.

SSS, after you do this to your car, you will be the newest expert. So add to the wiki if you see something missing or unclear.

ok dd i will see if is missing something!!

Thanks for the help.


Newest expert????

I've just replaced my alternator with an internally regulated one, as described above.

However, you also need a jumper between the White (12V) wire and the Yellow (alternator "S" terminal) wire, at the same connector. Otherwise the alternator has no voltage reference to regulate itself against, and will put out 15+ volts

I started the upgrade last Saturday and stuffed up something
so its overcharging my expensive under seat mounted AGM battery.
I am now going to go back to the external regulator setup
or go to a new auto elec. as my trusty one has closed shop :(
At least an camry internally fanned and regulated alternator
fits the early a10 alternator bracket.

I just checked my wiring again and the early b10 have different
wiring to the later ones hence the issues.
The later have the easy T connector.

Im trying again and just wondering what happens to the unused wires
besides White/Black and White/Red?
I dont want to leave the connector so can I just trim the wires down?

The other wires are only needed if you have an external regulator.

fast4motion wrote:
Quote:

I actually tested it with the single wire. The Hitachi LR alternator worked fine and put out regulated voltage and turned on and off with the IGN switch. The LR can sense how much voltage it is creating internally and so doesn't need an external wire for this.

It will not hurt to add the second wire, the LR will work with it and if other alternators require it so be it.

Follow this procedure, and you cant go wrong. [source lifted from Dimequaterly]

THE ALTERNATORS:
The OLD (externally regulated Alternator) had the "N" and "F" connected by the plastic "T" connector.
"N" Neutral was connected by a Y (yellow) wire.
[This is the top of the "T" connector]
"F" Field was connected by a W/B (White, black stripe) wire.
[This is the stem of the "T" connector]
The NEW IR ALT (internal regulated alternator) will have two connections, also in a T configuration like the old unit.

"S" Sense is connected to the battery (direct +12 Volts)
[This is the top of the "T" connector]
"L" Lamp is connected to the Warning lamp light. This connection
has TWO functions. By Sensing the circuit is turned on when the ignition is, it will energize the alternator. SECOND: when the alternator FAILS, and the engine is running, it will GROUND this connection - providing a ground path to turn on the "ALT" warning lamp. (you should see the "ALT" lamp glow when the ignition is first turned on, before starting the car).
HOW TO MODIFY THE WIRING:
Before tossing that old voltage regulator into the trash bin cut OFF the connector block.
Splice the W (white) wire to the Y one. (Sense circuit)
Splice the W/R (white/red) wire to the W/B one. (Lamp circuit)

(This the wiring at the HARNESS, compare it to the regulator wiring, both should be the same - but some replacement units did not follow the color code).

Plug the connector back onto the wiring harness. Quick, simple, painless to swap back if the need every arises.

THINGS TO CONSIDER:
The Alternator lead to the battery may be too small to handle the additional current capability of the new alternator. (Best to use a FUSED 10 gauge wire direct from the alternator to Battery).
There is also a splice in the harness, of the alternators positive lead (white with a red stripe) and the main power line from the starter to the fusebox (white). You may want check the condition of the splice, as it is buried in the harness and, if corroded, could cause problems. [From Robert Broad]

Hy everyone,what could happen if i hook up a internally regulated alternator,but i keep the external voltage regulator to?
I want to do this conversion,but i have a B310,not a 1200.the wiring color codes for the alternator and voltage regulator seems to be the same.

Also,i'm currently running a newer nissan micra(K10)alternator,witch probably has a internal regulator.I didn't modified anything,i just hooked it up 2 years ago,and since then i didn't had any problem with it,although the charge light in the dash it's on all the time.Now the bearings are shot and that light it's bothering me in the dash.

I got a brand new BOSCH battery,and i wanna sort this alternator story.Also,i got two Mitsubishi alternators,and a Hitachi LR150.physicaly they all are comaptible with the B310,but they all have internal regulators.

Quote:

Nothing bad will happen -- that's what the above does. You keep the external regulator, just 1) unplug it and 2) fit the jumper wire.

The single jumper wire is for Hitachi LR Alternators. If you use some other model, you may need two jumper wires as discussed above.