Hmmm.... very nice!

Methinks the CNC mill here at work is going to get another workout....

I take it the bar that connects either side has some sort of 'springyness' to it? Or is it completely rigid?

Thats a great looking bar. looks like a lot work went into this.
How is mounted to upper control arm?
Cheers Mark

...and what shocks are those?

When agricultural meets high tech.

I want one, are you selling them?

I'll add my name to the list

They are LC-LJ Torana Gas Shocks, there compressed height is about 5-10m shorter than std. This gives you more bump clearance when the car is lowered....

It was one of those jobs you try and do everything the easiest way possible..... Then end up nearly reinventing the wheel!!! Along the way I thought if Im going to do this much work... Do it once and make sure it works!!

It was painful to start with as the calipers where front mounted and couldnt find clearance when on full lock and full bump to fit the bars in between the shock and the caliper... So I had to remake caliper brackets and remount the caliper at the rear... Then get back onto the job of making the sway bar...

The links are mounted to the upper control withs brackets I made and welded them to the inside of the upper control arm...

Some of the hard jobs where welding the mounts to the chassis rail as you have to weld upside down! Working out where to mount the drop links so that the joints dont bind up when on full bump and full droop, and on full hard and full soft settings, and clearing wheels on full lock...

One of the worst was trying to bend the bars, I made some out of 2mm aly first to see where they would clear... It took me half a day to make a jig up to bend them properly, which then took me about 20mins to bend...

At least its all done now...

A friend new someone who had a car which had a std type bar clamped to the castor rod arms, but couldnt find out where to get them, so had to make my own...

What does everyone else use??

I wasnt planning on making them to sell... Would there be much interest

My next concern is the stub axle...??

Ive heard they break...What do people do to increase there strength???

Im thinking about using a Sunny/Stanza strut and chopping the top down and making a spindle with a stud to weld in (4" high strut)... But then need to use a top sperical joint, and make a hat to fit the top wisbone which can then take the Joint...

If anyone has a better and "easier" idea im all ears...

How much would they be you reckon? I guess interest would depend on price, but it goes both ways for that... price would be determined by demand too.

Fantastic work Topgear..Im using a harrop rotateable blade adjustable bar. the one off the rear of a future tourer (a class that was running several years back, a bit like a poor mans v8 supercar).
I`ll be starting of with using a 1" x .065" 4130 tubing with the blade at one end only.
I wont know what its like until i get to the track.. Its the only way i know of making it ajustable from inside the car..
Simon

topgear does topquality as usual. how much could you sell them for? then let's get a list going ...

I tried 1" X 0.065" wall.... with the blade length I had it was 2.7kg/mm on the softest setting and about 9.8kg/mm on the hardest...

Honestly.... "Soft" was unnotice able, hard was slightly noticeable but no where near enough...

I then made a 1" solid bar.... BINGO!!! Even on soft it transformed the car!!!

I have only run the car once with the solid bar in it. It over heated, and blew a head gasket.

With the tube bar even on hard I drove it around the local block and still rolled around a lot, really wasnt much difference from std. But was very noticeable once I put the solid bar in it though. The steering was much more responsive and the car didnt wallow around on the change of direction anywhere near as much, you pointed it and it went there!!

When fitting the adjustable blade make sure you get your pickup and mounting points right. There is VERY little clearance on lock, I actually had to move my calipers from the front of the stub to the rear! So not only did I have to engineer a sway bar I had to re-engineer the caliper mounts also...