I've converted a supra style box to fit in my 1200 coupe behind the A series but not yet fitted it to the car. I posted some stuff about it and I don't post much so it won't be hard to find. Essentially I cut a bit off each bell housing and put a 12mm plate in between since the sizes were quite different. I used a mandrel in the main bearings to align it all and refaced the bell housing surfaces on the mill after welding. If I were doing it again I'd probably allow 1.5mm for facing after welding, it's surprising how much distortion you get.

I still have not modified the flywheel or figured out exactly what to buy for the clutch actuation. Planning on using a CSC even though I left enough of the supra bell to use the standard set up. I have to convert the whole clutch actuation to hydraulic. Not sure if I'll finish it this year.

If I remember correctly I had an issue with my headlights not working when I bought my 1200, I think I pulled the switch apart and cleaned up the contacts and regreased them. All good after that.

Looking much cleaner than mine, small children and renos mean my datto hasn't left the shed in well over a year. I did upgrade the family car to a VF S1 SSV Wagon. LS power is very nice! (If you need any convincing) I'd happily have that drive train in all of my cars.

G'day Bryan,

I expected to see a bit more interest in this. Any idea on what freight to Adelaide would cost? Really I just want a bob tail, I may have asked about one years ago.

This is a good starting point:
http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... tle=%241200_EFI_Turbo_A12

It's Australian based so AUD and parts common to Australia, you may find different parts are more common in your part of the world.

I noticed this post today, a bit more info:

http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=7637&cid=38

L18_B110
Posted: 2005/12/17 8:28 Updated: 2005/12/17 8:28
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)


Joined: 2002/8/6
From: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3786
Re: L18
they're off the Aussie R31 Skyline 14*5.5" (Pintara has the same wheels). They fitted well on the front with the Stanza struts, but at this stage I was using the 120Y diff which is same width as 1200, so i had the rear wheels modified to be 20mm deeper dish to fil the gaurds better. I think it had 195/60 R and 185/60 F in this photo. Front gaurds were lipped and trimmed though.

Just looked those clamps up, they're quite clever. A bit pricey though. I can see how they'd give you buckets of movement and if the oring blows it's probably still driveable. Unlike silicone or other elastomers.

I've also been thinking about this since I have a set of 14" rims to put on the datto. So keen to see what other people use.

185/55r14 is not a bad match for diameter. 7mm bigger which is close. 185/50r14 are about 12mm smaller diameter than stock.

I believe there's options for both sizes but probably with a lead time.

That's some nice looking work. I got more practice to do before my tig welds look that good.

Are you hard mounting the engine? I couldn't see any allowance for engine movement in the intercooler piping. Or do the clamps allow for movement?

I was planning on doing turbo and ITBs but the MSII ECU I have can't do it. I needed to use a mixed speed density/ alphaN (throttle position, engine speed) tuning method since the manifold vacuum is not useful above a certain throttle position with ITBs. AlphaN doesn't work with boost. If I could have an AlphaN region in the load table rather than a switch point line it may have been possible.

Short answer is check whatever ECU you're using can support ITBs and boost. The tuning may be a little tricky.