Hey boys, I have unfortunately detonated another engine (being A15 turbo engine on 11psi) and its clearly an issue with the mechanical advance on the electronic dizzy as its not locked I'm not using vaccum advance at all and the initial static timing is 7 degrees but still pinging and has unfortunately done rings again

I need a hand on how to lock this dizzy I have not done it before I have half an idea to pull apart top part with trigger and rotor button then the mechanical advance is below knock out the pin and pull apart but unsure what to do with the weights and springs can I leave the springs on it and just do a quick spot weld on the advance and lock it then just set my static timing for around 16-20 degrees and run tests to confirm the timing is right with out it pinging or do I need to lock the weights and remove the springs and weld to certain point

I have also heard of using stainless wire and removing the springs and tying off the advance

All help would be great I cant be replacing rings and pistons again don't want to end up #OOPS#ing a block and beyond a hone fix

sounds like condenser is not working properly and needs to be replaced can make your coil hot or faulty wires across the resister

But certainly sounds more like a condenser

Replace or change out to electronic ignition and electronic coil for better reliability and performance

I have a turbo manifold for A series was going to use it for my A15 on blow through 38/36 weber with my T2860rs turbo

The manifold flange is a t25/28

Can run a t28 on an A series but need to have the different engine mounts as there are different types for a series engines its the low mount ones to bring the engine a little further away from the strut tower

Ran my other manifold on mates sedan with a t28 on A15 @11psi blow through made 167rwhp with 32/36 weber and equal length inlet manifold on bosch 40 fuel pump and xr6 turbo intercooler, electronic dizzy and bosch hec715 electronic ignition, tomei raising rate fuel reg and 5/16 fuel line and surge tank setup

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IF you need the front pipe it is this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-120 ... 68670?hash=item3a9875ee1e

The pipe is tapered its just a push in pipe into the block

No that's the hose to connect to the PCV the metal push in pipe for the A15 is:

Here is the pipe for sale on bprojects happy to help

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-120 ... 49414?hash=item3cb6d068e6

The crank case to PCV hose is:
11828-H1001 HOSE-PIPE CONNECTOR TO CONTROL VALVE

its the same for A12-13-14-15

can use any hose the top hose is what has a flame arrestor in it can buy it new from Nissan or bprojects have it

I have original NOS ones from Nissan Pair for 1200 ute but I know that bprojects has NOS ones available online

Just quick query as I hear mixed ideas on what to put in the steering box

The main idea is transmission/diff oil and fill steering box
The other is fill with an MSI Grease for example penrite steeringbox lube (NLGI 00, lithium based grease, blended with effective anti-wear, rust and oxidation inhibitors.)

Now im curious as im putting a new steering box in my other Datsun as the lash was so far gone that the worm and balls had like 2 inches of play was screwed what is the best idea for our Datsun 1200 steering boxes??

Hey guys just wanting to know how to get into contact with ernie with his (A.T.E Race engines) if anyone can help me out as mate has blown up his A14 turbo and scored the block and needing a bore and rebuild with forgies just wanting to get into contact with ernie as he does a great job and I don't have his details any more