The US spec 521's came with either a 1300 or an L16. I'm pretty sure the 1300 was the J13. I had the L16 version many many years ago.

For the H165 diff fans the 521 series 1300 version came with 4.88 gears, the L16 version had 4:11 gears. I used a 1300 alloy body diff and swapped in the 510 wagon side gears and ran it in the 510 wagon axel in the race car seen in my avi...

Gary

Thanks for all the effort gathering the tranny info!

I thought I would summarize the info from the limited books I have on hand.

From the Nissan 1971 Datsun 1200 service manual:

B110 (S) U
B110 (S) RU
B110 (S) U

Fitted with R3W56 Steering column shift transmission

Ratios:

1st 3.380
2nd 1.734
3rd 1.000


B110 (S) TU
LB110 (S) T
B110 (S) TRU
LB110 (S) TR
LB110 TRU
LB110 TRN
VB110 (S) TU
VLB110 (S) T
KB110 U
KLB110
KLB110 U
KLB110 N

Fitted with F4W56 Floor shift transmission

Ratios:
1st 3.757
2nd 2.169
3rd 1.404
4th 1.000

The only other book that has any interesting info is the Haynes manual covering the 1978 through 1981 510s. There were some different trannys and different gear ratio combos available.

F4W60 Ratios:
1st 3.513
2nd 2.170
3rd 1.378
4th 1.000

F4W63L Ratios:

DX Saloon:
1st 3.382
2nd 2.013
3rd 1.321
4th 1.000

Other Saloons and all Estate Cars
1st 3.657
2nd 2.177
3rd 1.429
4th 1.000

FS5W63A Ratios:

Coupe (standard):
1st 3.382
2nd 2.013
3rd 1.312
4th 1.000
5th .854

Coupe (alternative):
1st 3.657
2nd 2.177
3rd 1.419
4th 1.000
5th .852


Was there any numbers on the trannys that designated what the bell housing fits?

Anyone in the upper left corner of the US have a 60 or 63 5 speed for sale?

Gary

What are the choke sizes on the A14 version?

I know that the Stock A12 carbs are 22/26mm.

Gary

Seems like it would be easier to go through the side from the back seat. Much less hardware in the way. Course your dog may not like having to go in and out from the back seat...

Yep,

The real answer is to pick up an adjustable vacuum modulator. Then you can dial in the trannys habits to suit your taste.

One of the my past 1200's was setup with a 1200GX head with SU's sitting on top of an A15 block with a mild cam. Lots of fun!

Current project is another 1200 sedan with auto. Just picked up an A15 engine with a toasted head. I'm going to take my freshley rebuilt 1200 head (with port matching, manifold work, and modified and rejeted stock carby and stick it on the A15 bottom end. Trying to make a torque motor to go with the Auto tranny.

Should be good for street use and the tight autocrosses we have around here.

Gary

Hey Dogeman and 89mm, what are we doing hanging around with this bunch of kids?.... Having lots of fun!

I'm 46 going on 15.

Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional...

Gary

Hi DD,

Your idea of using the 200SX (sylvia) harness should work. Cross reference the part numbers for the 200SX injectors with the A14E injectors and the fuel regulators. If they are different you may need to change the parts to match what the harness/ECU is expecting.

The fuel regulator is designed to maintain a constant pressure across the injector. As the manifold vacuum drops the presure in the regulated fuel pressure will increase to compensate.

It seems that the best manual for describing how the factory injection system works was in a Haynes manual for the 1978 810. The 200SX manual is also good.

If I remember correctly (it was ~15 years ago that I was messing around in my friends autosalvage yard...) the 1980 US spec 200SX was open loop, no oxygen sensor where the O2 sensor was added in '81. Might makes things simpler to not have to deal with the 02 sensor...

Good luck and let us know what happens!

Gary

Hi Matt,

First question that comes to mind is how much space is between the top of the axle tube and the rear subframe (if you can call that piece of tin a subframe ;-}) when the rear suspension bottoms out?

Just had a brain fart... What functions as a bump stop on coupes? I'm a sedan guy and the bump stops on the sedans are part of the rear shocks.

Is is possible to relocate the bump stops to gain suspension travel on coupes?

On sedans I have relocated the top shock mount straight up to get more usefull suspension travel. On my current car I plan on having the rear springs de-arched to be flat when loaded, increase the length of the rear shackles to set the springs parallel to the ground, then use lowering blocks to set the ride height. The lowering blocks will have shock mounts built into them so I won't be loosing so much of the suspension travel. You do have to be carefull to make sure the bump stops hit before the axle hits the underside of the body works though.

I have not found lowering blocks to be detrimental to the car's handling. Last race car had de-arched springs and 2" lowering blocks. We got several top time of days the last year that we autocrossed the car.

Gary

Adjusting the geometry of the rear suspension is a nice tweak. In the stock setup the rear spring eye is quite a bit higher than the front spring eye. This makes the axle move forward and rearward as it moves vertically. What this does is set the car up with some roll understeer in the stock configuration.

What happens is the rear axle steers the car a small amount as the body leans in the corner.

One of the nice tweaks I have done on several 1200's (and my brothers Ford Pinto, many years ago) goes like this. Add a 1" lowering block (or have the springs de-arched 1"). Increase the rear shackle length a hair over 2". This causes the spring to be much more parallel with the ground and does not change the ride height.

With the rear springs more parallel to the ground, the rear axle has less roll steer. It makes the car more stable on bumpy roads. Really shows up on long sweeping corners that have lots of bumps. Most of the tiny steering corrections you normally make just go away.

I've done this! It works great.

I took the adjuster screw out, welded a 1" piece of hex stock (end of cut off allen wrench) and welded it into the socket on the adjuster screw. Put the adjuster screw back in and mounted a 1" aluminum stereo controll knob from Radio Shack.

Attached valve to the pasanger side of the tranny tunnel by the gearshift and ran the rear brake line through the pasanger compartment.

Brake bias adjustable from the driver seat!