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   All Posts (Gary_P)


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Re: Clevite Tri-metal bearings
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Try part number MS-1107 P for the main bearings.

I cheated with the PN... Had a box of main bearings purchased from Dan Hall many years ago sitting on the shelf.

Info- https://www.go-parts.com/clevite-77/clevite-main-bearings/ms1107p/i-463054.aspx

Posted on: 2016/6/28 4:36
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Re: Turbo EFI A12 for under $1200. Discussion thread
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For the fuel atomization issue it is not hard to convert the stock manifold to water heat. I did this on one of my 1200's that had an extractor on it when I acquired it. No matter how the carb was tuned the car did not run good unless the outside temp was warm bordering on hot or the engine had been running for 20 minutes or more.

To convert manifold to water heat.

1. Scrape out all the carbon that is plugging the fins on the bottom of the intake manifold where the exhaust manifold used to be.

2. Using an end mill cut through both ends of the heat transfer fins making them free standing.

3. Make a plate that bolts on where the exhaust manifold used to be. Drill and tap a hole for a water fitting near the front outside edge. I used 1/8" pipe thread fittings for getting the water in and out of the converted manifold.

4. Drill into the engine side rear corner of the manifold hot spot and tap for water fitting. If you angle the drill just right there is enough metal there to drill and tap for 1/8" pipe thread.

With this configuration the hot water enters the old hot spot from the right rear upper corner and exits out the bottom at the left front corner traversing corner wise thru the fins warming the manifold.

I used 1/8" male pipe thread to 1/4" hose fittings for the manifold. Made 1/2" hose fittings with 1/4" hose side taps to tap into to the heater lines.

The engine runs much better with the heated manifold with both light throttle and low end torque showing much improvement.

I've got some pics around here somewhere but can't find 'em at the moment.

Posted on: 2016/3/3 3:06
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Re: flares
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Angle shot of the larger ZG flares for the 240Z on a 2 Door 1200 sedan.

Attach file:



jpg  green_packwood.JPG (64.13 KB)
1757_56b2549e39581.jpg 720X430 px

Posted on: 2016/2/3 19:28
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Re: fitting an early tachometre to a 1985 1200 ute :?
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I've had bouncy tachs be caused by bad spark plug wires or plugs.

Quick electrical tune up fixed it (3 different times over the years...)

Posted on: 2015/10/27 19:16
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Re: 310 clutch upgrade
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I would not recommend stacking the clutch springs in the 310. We had built a dune buggy back in the '80s around the 310 drive train. The built A-15 with GX head and Volvo SU carbs needed more clutch. Tried stacking the belleville springs as a quick solution. The only quick thing to happen was the destruction of the center main bearing thrust face.

Posted on: 2015/6/28 2:55
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Re: flywheel weights
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Yes, flywheel weight is all about compromise. I have one of the super light flywheels like Levey showed above in my dedicated autocross car that occasionally gets street driven. While it's entertaining for short periods it's a pain in the a** after awhile.

The other 1200 I drive is a stocker with the full weight flywheel. Way too far in the other direction...

The best compromise for me is a stock flyweel lightened to the Datsun comp specs. They come in around 12 pounds and work well. Light enough to be fun but not a pain in the a**.

Posted on: 2015/6/10 19:12
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Re: split in accel pump boot
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The split in the boot won't effect carb operation. It will let gas fumes out and dirt in though.

If you are starting to get a stumble on acceleration and the accelerator pump boot is split sounds like time to rebuild the carb. The rebuild kit will have the accelerator pump boot as well as all the other parts needed to refresh the carb.

The rebuild kits don't cost much.

Posted on: 2014/9/17 13:32
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Re: Alternator Capacitor/Condensor?
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Every time I've had tachometer needle jumping issues it's been fixed by new spark plug wires. Bad wires don't dump the spark energy from the coil into the spark plugs as well causing the tach to double trigger.

I've had best luck with the NGK wires.

Posted on: 2014/9/17 13:24
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Re: PCV with weber manifold?
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On my A12 with a single DCOE 40 carb I drilled and tapped the underside of the manifold that feeds #3 and #4, screwed in a 90 degree fitting then screwed the PCV valve into that.

Posted on: 2014/8/31 20:40
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Re: 1200 sedan rear quarter window rubbers
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This is what I'm planning on using for my sedan. It is a universal product made by Metro Molded Parts in Minneapolis Minnesota. The product is called "push on trim seals" and I think the TS 2-C is the version to use. The website does not have dimensions on the drawings so you will need to order the catalog which includes the dimensions on the drawings. Look at the TS 2-C/25 to see the drawing as the drawing is missing from the TS 2-C. The /25 signifies 25 feet of seal.

Metro Moulded Parts Inc.

Click on "Universal Parts/Press-On Trim Seals" then look at the parts.

Metro also has various other seal profiles that can replace most of the rubber in the 1200's. Have fun looking at all their products...

Posted on: 2014/7/22 4:50
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