Sounds like you are either suffering from bump steer (change in toe angle when the suspension moves up and down) can be caused from lowering too far or putting different wheels on. Or if it is floaty at higher speeds and you need to turn it could be worn out shocks.

Bounce the front of the car and if it rises and settles quickly shocks are all good, if it continues to bounce they may be worn out. If its the original suspension in the coupe the strut tube is just filled with oil, So under a lot of up and down it can aerate the oil making your shocks useless.

It would be hard to tell without seeing and driving the car to exactly pin point the issue, but that's a start.

The bound bump is just a bit of rubber stopping the strut from completely bottoming out.

There will always be that battle between what you think its worth Vs what people with pay.

I've seen utes advertised for 4-6 for an original requiring some work, to 10-12 for a modified A series in a really clean one, then 20+ for a CA/SR turbo and engineered. That is on car sales and gum tree.

I would be really interested in seeing what people have actually sold their cars for rather than what people think they are worth.

Start a thread and see what price and when people sold their cars and use that as an estimate?

Have a factory A Series auto out of my 1972 coupe. not sure of conditon or KMS.
Located in Sutherland Shire.

Hi Matt,

I might have most of what you are after PM me and get i'll show you what I have.

Located Sutherland Shire

Callum

I'm looking at doing the same thing for my 1200 coupe with an SR20.

First quote I got a while ago was $850. After all my wiring is done I'll be looking into it to get it done as soon as I can.

The more I think of it a custom one might be the go, with shortening and actually finding another shaft I will probably be in the same ball park with cost. May as well pay for a brand new quality one.

I mean my coupe will be worth $30,000 when its finished right?

I'll keep everyone updated on costs and where I end up going.

G'day legends,

I am almost at the end of my 1200 coupe build (3 years and counting) and was just after some information or advise.

I have an SR20DE with a R30 Stumpy behind it and a Shortened R31 Diff.

I am just wondering if anyone can help with either of the following:

Is there a factory shaft that works? (doubt it haha)
Is there a shaft that can be shortened?
Am I better to just get a custom one made, if so has anyone used anywhere in Sydney to get a shaft made?

I have a bit less than 4 months before I need this car at my wedding so any help would be great.

Added a photo so y'all can see what I'm working with.

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I just finished spraying my coupe this week actually. I did it in white Acrylic. started with rattle can etch primer after all rust repairs. 4 coats of high fill sanded back with 800g, 2 coats of primer sanded back with 800g, 4 coats white acrylic sanded back with 1200g, 4 coats acrylic clear sanded with 1200 then 2000. Still need to buff it but will do that when the car is ready to be put back together.

I used a pop up marque from kogan and honestly spent more time repairing it after all the wind i had over the last few months.

I'd recommend spending the time making a decent area to spray it first.

Things i found really helpful when spraying were to back of the mixture or flow of paint, limited the amount of wastage and over spray to sand off.

I used paint from a local body repair shop but found the Septone products from supercheap auto to do the best job.

I needed to do this as well. Was going to modify my 1200 coupe plates. But cheers for the idea. just picked up a set off ebay!

I have the whole front end out of my coupe with struts, brakes, lines, arms etc. Aussie delivered tho. located Sydney.