This may be too simple of an answer but here goes,
I have the 38mm su's that were on my L16 when I
had a 510 and I had no trouble with fuel starvation. The inlet was water cooled and has a
cross over equalization tube to help balance the
charge going into the cylinders. I do know that su's can be a pain to figure out but there are a few things that have changed on
Andy's motor that
greatly effect the flow dynamics! It may be as simple as a spark plug that is too hot at 6400rpm
and is pre igniting the now better charge at that
rpm and will show up as crapping out or poping as
if the timing has gone wack-O. The cure is a lower
heat range plug (one or two down),better grade of
gas or as I well know valve bounce,if you havn't
got double springs yet. I just pulled mine apart
and found that all that slop is wearing the top
stem retainer slots badly creating a lip so the valves won't come through the valve guides.
The cure? More work and More money!!
Hope that helps Gotta Go
C-Ya Lime Ricky OOPS! Steve, The Sageman

Point taken,
The largest reason for going auto transmission
in drag racing is consistancy. The Big Boy's like Pro Stock launch with a clutch and use a planetary
type gear box(best of both worlds)The secret is to keep the engine in it's Max torque band so they have 5 gears. A small engine is prone to a narrow high rpm power band. Also
the more things you are
turning the more it eats power. Money to get a stout enough auto to fit can be limited and mine sure is. I have considered a Ford C-4 three speed
for the car when I install the big engine mainly
because I want to concentrate on keeping a short wheelbase car with all that power going straight down the track and stay consistant.
But really an automatic just isn't as much fun to
drive!!
Thanks
Steve

Here is the 1-2-3's of re-curving a distributor.
First assuming you know how to remove and replace
it from the engine,pull it out and get to a well lighted area. My dist. is electronic too. There is a dust cover under the rotor,pop it out and loosen the screw to seporate
the shaft halves. Note that the plate has notches to re allign it when putting it back. Remove the screws holding the pickup coil
and the vacuum advance rod and the holding screws
for the plate and the plate with the top half of the shaft should come out of the housing.
At this time you should see some two small springs
mounted on grooved pins and they limit the centrifical timing advance. Higher tension springs
mean less advance at higher rpm (retarded timing )
weaker springs means more advance at higher rpm.
When at higher rpm's the vacuum advance is cut out because the engine is eating all the manifold
vacuum so the advance weights take over.
Your cam will need more advance because it provides a better charge in the combustion chamber
and will need to fire the plugs sooner as rpm increases to make better torque. The cam grinder
may have tested to see what the optimum max advance ( timing light varification) gives the best power output. My guess is 34 to 39 degrees.
I would check it at the rpm the cam is supposed to make power and see what it is at before you start.The vacuum advance should be adjustable to
get the idle where you want it, but most power cams have lower rpm vacuum losses because of lobe
configurations.
Hope your not totally confused now!
just go slow and you should be fine, a little
trial and error will make you a better tuner!
Try the dealer for spring assortments,I just scrounge them wherever I can.
Good luck
Steve

Hi Andy,
My B210 had a set of 3.77's in it with the factory 4 speed and I traded them for 3.889's from the "75" 4 door Parts car,also a 4 speed. Those are the only two common ratio's I know about
although there was supposed to be some 4.11's in early B210's But the wreckers I've talked to said they hadn't seen any.
Lack of "Pull" is a torque problem and is hard to
track sometimes. Two things come to mind,one is very do-able and that is re-curving the Distributor. When I did that right, it woke up my A14. The other is the cam degreeing,and is almost
impossible without an adjustable gear set up. One note is, most cams are designed as they get more radical to have a header to work best and you will be there soon, the sidedrafts will
change the torque a bunch too. When it is all on the engine THEN re-curve the dist to suit the combination,try several different advance spring tensions and see which gives the best seat
of the pants kick, or better, is to dyno test it, if you can find a shop for that.
Hope that wasn't too long!
C-Ya Steve

Dear Bloxhamd,
Both engines use a Forged steel crankshaft and the blocks have 5 main bearings. With good pistons
and a balanced rotating assembly you should be able to run all day at 6000 Rpm. I would have the crank polished and keep the bearing clearences close then do a slow break-in
period. The A15 will pull
harder at lower RPMs and you may not need to keep it at 6000 or above as much. The piston speed is
marginal anyway on such a short stroke engine !
Rev-On Dude
C-Ya Steve

HI All,
Believe it or not, I leave the line with my foot
on the floor! My shift light is set to come on at
6200 rpm and is brite when I go. The tac will go to about 7500 but I think it's off a bit. I hold revs at four grand till the first yellow then burry the pedal. I do however have
the clutch set to grab only about 1 inch off the floor and this gets me good reaction times and also lets the disc
slip a bit so it doesn't shock the drivetrain as much. My foot stays planted till I cross the finish line.The B210 drive shaft is different than
the 1200 and I did blow out the spyders once and
left the spare pumpkin 600 miles away on the work bench! So All I can tell you is keep a spare on hand and hope you stay lucky.
The other question answer is about how to know the difference between A12 and A14. The dist.
on the A14 is not on the front of the block,it is
back between cylinders 3 and 4 which is the main reason an A12 cam won't work in an A 14 or 15 which are basically the same block and con rods
and bore. Only the stroke and pistons are different. Hope that helps
C-Ya Steve
P S good luck at the races Andy!!

Hi gang,
The nismo parts supply for 1200's is very minimal
I think they have cams and a few accesssories.Nothing you could not find elsewhere.
The Mazda engine Idea will get you a lot of horsepower BUT! I have talked to some people who
went that route and they said getting the seals to hold up to racing is very expensive and I was with
a lot of them at the Import Nationals and they are
hard to get to run right all the time .
The traction problem on a 1200 is firstly due to
the low weight of the cars and there are a few cheap tricks that have helped get the Bee out of the hole even with the treaded tires I am currently using. One is to clamp the
front of the
leaf springs to slow wheel hop and I use a clamp on helper on the back too so the springs won't wrap up when I launch. A front wheel line lock to
do a good burn out warms the tires nicely too.
Somewhere I have a picture of the Bee with the right front wheel about 2 inches off the ground at launch and that is without any traction bars!
The price for the race engine is sweet, I wished I was closer I would probably take it !!
Lots of Good Info Guys !!
C-Ya Steve

The 1200,which I think I secured yesterday, will get all the A series stuff from the Bee as I have an LZ2200 on the stand ready for it.
This is an
L20B block 89mm bore,Z22 crank,nap Z head ported&polished twin 45mm webbers on a canon inlet
and I have a header, 200SX 5 speed and a narrowed
67 mustang 8in diff.alum,spool and 462 gears W/Mosher custom axels. lightened flywheel W/roadster cover.
The 1200 which will be lighter, I have a narrowed
200XS Diff for and plan going to the wall
with by puting some 12.5to 1 pistons,some reworked
38mm SU's I've had from my old 510 and any other
trick stuff I can rustle up so I can get it to go
13's.
As far as Style I like both about the same but like the coupe 1200 a bit better than the sedan.
Race On Dudes!!
C-Ya Steve

Most members don't know that I live in the high
desert in the middle of Utah, USA and the area has
lots of rural farms that grow some of the best alf alfa in the world also a lot of cattle ranging too. Anyway I do a lot of plumbing work all over the area and travel the back farm roads
and am always seeing old cars the farmers have just left to rust. For some time I have been watching for any old Datsun and was thinking that one of these old farmers must have had a
1200 at some time ,but
why haven't I ever seen one? Just at that moment
yesterday when I was thinking that, a lime green
1200 coupe suddenly materialized in a feild to my
right. Wham! it was like magic. I haven't seen it up close but I think I can get it free for just
hauling it away ! I already came up with a name for it " LIME RIKKI " I am Excited !!
C-Ya Steve

Well thats a bummer about another deadend for a header!
You might try David Webber at Malvern if the configuration gets spooky. He seemed to have a lot
of knowledge about what combinations fit when I talked to him.
At this point I am thinking the best idea for me is to have some of my mechinist buddies just make what I need for me and will be sure to keep the ability to make copies
of anything that works well.
So eventually Sagemanone will be making a lot of special parts for any of my friends cars at the 1200 club!!
How about a Ram intake downdraft manifold that
uses the Ford Pinto 2 barrel that holley sales?
Torque out the WAZOO!! and lots of parts any time you need them!!
C-Ya Steve