I too would like to know what market value for these is in Aussie.
When I put my 1200 on the market, if it doesn't sell I'll be returning it to standard and listing the gearbox on here too.

BOOM!
You're the Man David!!!!!!!!!
Two screws, and the old slag will be drivable again.
Then I only need to get my rust guy to cut out the worst of the cancer, it it might be road "legal" again.

So, last winter while out on a datsun club overnight run, my charging system gave up the ghost. As the WOF and Rego were almost out anyway, I just parked it up in my back yard.
I removed the alternator a few weeks back, and pulled it down. Figuring it would just need brushes, a skim on the comutator, and maybe bearings at a pinch. (It wasn't noisy or anything)
So I pulled it apart, and the brushes looked fine. I noticed some small bits that fell out of it when I separated the two halves. Upon closer inspection, those "little bits" were in fact part of the diode block.
So I consulted an auto sparky mate. He did a quick search, and found that a replacement diode block was suprisingly cheap. So I left it with him, and he gave the whole thing a major birthday.
Got it back, and refitted it. Kicked her in the guts, and the charge light stayed on. So I had a ferret through my collection of spares, and found another regulator.
Plugged that in, and BINGO! It charges again.

Now my query is this, as my old regulator was sanded back and painted way back when I still gave a sh!t about how it looked, the decal with the model etc is but a distant memory.
So I have no way of knowing if it's compatable with my alt.
I dunno about Datto's, but I do know that with valiants, the wrong regulator can cause the battery to overcharge. (At least the ammeter used to sit way up high when I fitted some unknown quantity aftermarket reg)

I consulted a B310 Haynes manual, but non of the numbers in that book match what I have here.

My alternator says, LT150-49
And yes I'm sure that's what it says. (The haynes manual refers to an LR150-49, but mine has been bead blasted, and it definately says "LT".

And the regulator I found has a decal which says, TL1Z-57D
and the book refers to a TL1Z-57B

So are the two parts I have all good to run together????
I wanna get the old bitch legal again so I can sell it and start building an even faster Datsun!

The equipment will be resold to someone else.
So there will be someone grinding cams.

Just wait will nissan join two together, and BAM! There's the next GTR engine.
800hp anyone?

My local clutch guy has a custom pressure plate, made with double diaphram springs. Only want's $140 for it.

Another option is to have the flywheel remachined to take a 200mm hd LD20 pressure plate, and run a clutch disc from a fwd sr20 primera.

I have some custom front crankshaft pulleys for sale.
It would be much easier to attach a blower pulley to one of these, rather than to the crappy brittle piss weak factory one.

I shouldn't trash Kelfords. (I have a mate who works there) But they rub me up the wrong way.
Hey Fandatstick,
Are you on NZdatsun.com?

I do not recommend the performance springs CB4A02's.
I used to run them, but mine lost their extra pressure, and two of my mates had them break on daily driven cars. A local Cam shop no longer even stocks them. And they told my mate they were only good for 20,00kms
Or replace every season in a track car.

I hear good things about Kennelly (spelling) cams in Christchurch.
Stuff is cheaper here cos our wages are sh1t. Pay people less, services cost less.
There's also Franklin cams in Auckland too.