I'm with bige - good luck with 10,000rpm...

From my experience, it is far easier to bore a big bore block to suit a big bore head gasket than it is to get a big bore head gasket made (and work) to suit a big bore block.

Words of advice for anybody wanting to do big bore stuff in the future, start with the head gasket.

When you next pull your motor apart, send me down your crank and I will send you up a scalloped 1400 crank.

Jeff builds the motors, Ian bolts on all of his external parts.

Spoke to Ian yesterday, he might be down in Brisbane in the next couple of weeks, I have some parts put aside for him for his new car, if it works out I will give him the crank to take up to your area.

I have some new (still in box) DB 625 RB74 compound 'race brakes' pads here I won't be using, cost me $180 plus postage, $150 and I will pay postage.

Ring 'race brakes' and see if the compound is right for you, I have always used RB74 compound in the rally car.

Just let me know.

Aidan, why don't you just listen to the voice of experience, ask Ian what he does, (I know what the answer will be) If you don't have a contact for him let me know and I will pass one onto you.

If when you have a look at your crank and it is damaged, let me know and I will swap it for one of the ones that I have here to help you out, I don't use A14 cranks and I'm pretty sure I have a couple of lighter weight ones here.

My 2cents,

I always use 680 loctite on the threads and under the head of the bolts, and I do the bolts up F.T. (Fucking Tight) Wouldn't have a clue what the factory spec is - didn't know they had one.

I've been using the same modified flywheel bolts for the last 10yrs with out a problem.

If you need any machining done let me know.

bige, what size are the primary pipes on them, they look good.

Sorry, I have no idea what it was from.

1200rc, I just fitted a topgear lsd to a 4.875, no problem at all.

I will be needing some new extractors soon.

Have you any photo's of these 4 - 1 bige?

I agree with 1200rallycar on two points,

1. there are far better places to spend your $$ and time than on fitting a rack and pinion, what's wrong with your original that warrants overhauling? is it out of adjustment? if so let me know and I will advise you how to get more adjustment out of it.

2. Stay far far far away from locked diffs if you are starting out, I've been driving
rallycars for close to 25yrs and I have seen some very accomplished drivers come to grief simply because of the locked diff, if you are starting out - if you can't get a lsd do what 1200rc has done and get a phantom grip, if you can't do that stay with an open diff.

My 'now obsolete' 2cents worth - strange, when i started rallying in 1984 2cents wasn't obsolete...