Thanks rgrinder for that.

I was aware that the L28 turbo motor had the biggest oil pump, but I assumed that it would be difficult to source.
If I can get my hands on one, then it will be the option of choice. As I am mashing it together with an a-series pump I would prefer to do that once and higher volume is always better. Even if you don't use all the volume, it will help with cooling as well. Plus, I can then run a external cooler without worrying about oil loss.

I found this thread
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28 ... -l24-28-part-15010-s8000/
they talk about the pump being marked as a H4 pump.

That thread talks about the L-series pump having a 35mm stator and the L28 pump having a 40mm stator.
They also seem to think that the KA24 pump is 40mm as well - So not sure.
The part numbers you quoted are spot on s- thanks for that.
I also see that SW motorsport sell a high volume l-series pump. Ill chase up with him on this to see if its going to be a good fit for my plans.

So... if anyone has a L28 turbo oil pump lying about that needs a new home.....


Ill need to check the L-series pumps I have in my pile that I just acquired from a fellow datsun nut near me to see if they are the H4.

Hi folks

Looking for an l series oil pump to mash into an s series pump for higher volume.
According to the tech wiki a ka24 pump is the highest volume but any L series unit would be fine.

Hi folks

Looking for an l series oil pump to mash into an s series pump for higher volume.
According to the tech wiki a ka24 pump is the highest volume but any L series unit would be fine.

do you need an original egi mani, or just an efi mani?

I've still got he block mods to do,(drill a couple of water ports and oil gallery for the turbo.) but I pretty much have everything sitting in a box in the shed.
Body work is done
Just need to reassemble the car now and get the motor screwed together.

Quote:

Yep Pizza with the lot is my plan. Thats actually a pretty good analogy. Get a bunch of things from 20 cars, throw them onto the car and cook.
A15DET
Delco 808 to run the show. Megasquirt 3 as plan B
T25 turbo
GM wasted spark coil pack with Mazda timing setup. D585 coil setup as plan B
MX5 injection stuff
MX5 intake and exhaust manifolds
Chev escalade/kia sephia coolant setup and e-pump to push it
T50 gearbox
BW78 skyline LSD rear
Sunvisor, Venetians aircon and whitewalls.

Quote:

The bush fits very well onto the crank, but it just slips on. No need to heat it up. No play, or anything untoward.

Since it is just a spacer, once it is pushed back by the pulley and the pulley is bolted correctly, it ain't going to move, and it doesn't hold any weight itself.
A grub screw would be nice (but prob unnecessary), but then you would need to balance that somehow.

Its all fine to adjust the original design, but only if it clearly makes for measurable benefit. We do need to remember that the existing design works, and works fine.

Quote:
The toyota water pump looks like it could be a great option. Small compact, and as long as its easy to get a hold of seems like a great way to go, but I personally would be loathe to get too carried away on that as again, the existing design works just fine.
Adding in the extra pulley means adjusting the belt route etc etc - I really need to get my car done!

But as an on-going development process, that is just ticking over, then yep- go for it.

Quote:


The sleeve that sits on the datsun crank to push the Mazda pulley out is just steel. I think it was machined from some bar, but some suitable pipe would work also.
Now that I think about it, it should prob have a grub screw on it to hold it firm on the crank. It really just sits on there and it held in place y the crank bolt that holds the pulley on as well.



When I get home again, I can put the verniers on this and give you some measurements so that it can be added to the drawing repository.

Any chance Matt that you can send me your updated drawings so i can pass them to my cnc dude?
Im just keen on the cutout for the water

D.
When looking at the front , dizzy to the left.
The squarish stepped down area in the top left is to allow the idler here to sit in the right position.

The circular cutout at the bottom right is to allow the idler to have clearance.

When I mocked up everything it all lines up as intended so i left well alone.
You could possibly remove that dropdown section and the belt would still line up but it all works.

I would take a photo with it mocked up but im getting copies made now so the cnc dude has it.