There are two car clubs I know of on the South Coast. The first is the Wollongong Sporting Car Club. They run the Huntley Hillclimb at Avondale, plus I'm sure they do more. Further south is Shoalhaven & Kiama District Car Club. As for places to race, there's Huntley Hill, Wakefield Park at Goulburn, which has a hillclimb track, & Fairbairn Park in Canberra, also used for Hillclimbs. The CAMS website should give you contact details, plus Facebook sites. Hope this gives you somewhere to start looking.

With my B310 Sunny's, I always back off the clutch stop bolt on the pedal box, then pull the clutch pedal up, which will move the hook on the top of the pedal. You should be able to slip the cable end over the hook. you then adjust the stop so the clutch pedal is the same height as the brake pedal & adjust the clutch cable at the firewall. You can also change the clutch cable to one from a 120Y or a Sunny, which have the larger body needed to fill the hole in the bell housing. The thickness of the washer could be just enough to make it impossible to get the cable on the clutch fork.

Have you swapped from an A12 to an A14 or A15? The larger engines have a thicker flywheel, so the distance between the gearbox face & the clutch fork when the throwout bearing touches the pressure plate forks is greater. I always used the A12 flywheel, as it's like fitting a lightened flywheel. Are you're using the plate between the engine & the gearbox? Removing this will move the gearbox forward & should help with fitting the cable.

Sorry for the delay in replying, but I've measured the steering arms I have & they seem to be 80mm spacing. Definitely left & right hand arms. I've taken off the ball joints, & they're currently getting a soak in some degreaser to get all the rubbish off them. This should half the postage costs. If you can give me a mailing address via PM, I can probably get them mailed on Friday. They will need a clean with a wire brush, & probably a coat of paint. After that they should do the job.
They'll need Sunny/Stanza ball joints & Sunny/Stanza lower control arms, unless you have late 1200 ute control arms, which used the bigger ball joint. Stanza ball joints seem to have more offset, meaning wider track & negative camber.

Not going to own up to anything, but transporting a car on a trailer can loosen/make fall out sway bar bolts, leading to understeer. Poor installation can also cause castor arm bolts to fall out, leading to snap oversteer. Just two of the problems that I deny to this day.

Are these for the Stanza/180B/200B based struts? I have some Sunny steering arms left over from a Sunny. If you can't find anything in Vic, you can have them for the price of the postage.

Has anyone seen how the Economonitor worked. That's the round gauge next to the speedo in the early car. I think a series of light rings changed colour with the change in engine vacuum, as it was connected to the manifold by a rubber hose. The only Sunny I had that had one was my early (11/78) Panel Van, & it didn't work. Changed it out for a Coupe dash with a tacho, then a complete late model dash from door to door with the late coupe cluster.

Tom, what's the capacity limit of the class you run? I assume it's 2.5 litres due to all the L series cars. Also, is there/ what is the multiplication factor for turbocharging. In Australia its 1.7m so an 1171 A12 is 1.990 litres. A 1488 cc A15 is 2.530 litres, however a 1390 cc A14 is 2.360 litres. So that A15 might be too big. I'd hate to get banned for 30 cc's. Wasn't somebody selling an A14 crank in the classifieds? My hope would be a turbo A14, but even an A12 would be sweet. Can't imagine what the reaction from the 'Grunter' runners would be like.

PS a Grunter is what the big bore long stroke L series engines were called back in Group G rallying. Most runners found it cheaper to run rotary's.

They're going to want to decrease the size of the restrictor plate now . It sounds like the piston broke off the top half, I know of a class 1 off road racer who used to do this with his A series motors, but it was with standard pistons, if you can believe. Hope to see Jordan in the car at Clipsal Adelaide for the Improved Production races.

I've replaced the fusible link in my B310's with a fusible link from the N12 Pulsar, which was easy when they were in every wrecking yard. This also gave an extra battery outlet for accessories. I think they sold this car in the US as a 310. Sounds like you fixed this problem already. As for the misfire, check the coil, as it could be breaking down. If it doesn't cure the problem, at least you've got a new coil.

I've had this happen with DGV's as well, the throttle sticks, so I loosened the nut & it then fell off. I've found there's a difference between the weber supplied nut & the Nissan one. The Weber one had a bit of drag on it, probably by design. So I used a Weber nut, plus a second one to act as a lock nut. I could also have used the locking tab that came with the standard carburettor.