Nice Pic Michael, Two quality streeters! Ha Ha

(reference to the cars....and the chocolate tins)

I still drop in for a look. I haven't had anything Datsun related to post about lately.

Maybe I should do something!!??

To the original Q, Prepared, But not concerned.

I’d be interested in the Ute diff center. I’ll send you a PM. Ta

Pm sent

Ask away! I'm serious about the offer too!

D, It was a healthy SR16VE N1. Good enough to win the U1600 class at the Nationals 4 weeks ago anyway. And I only tuned it the week before that.

D, The SR16VE was an N1 engine, so I've updated the post to show that.

Tom, It probably all depends on if you like to just be out on the track and having fun reliably, In which case a STD SR would be hard to beat for that(as others have said). The Turbo A12 would be faster not just in a straight line, but in the corners and under brakes. I'm confident in the A12a turbo being reliable at 15Psi on E85.
I certainly didn't mean to put any pressure on your decision making. I just love the A12T (done properly(disclamer,lol))

Tom, I understand that it would be a daunting task to take on and that it may be easier for you to put an SR20 in the car. But I believe in the turbo A12 so much i'm happy to help it happen.

What if I build a turbo EFI kit, fly over, fit and tune it for you within your budget?

Regarding the belt driven option, Unless it’s a later screw charger, they are not as efficient. The drive losses are also significant. Because they are positive displacement chargers they make boost from low down, which is great for the street but can be prone to detonation low down without dropping comp or pulling ign timing. Then at high rpm the losses start adding up.

I like that with turbos, you can size them to start working from higher in the rpm(say 4-4.5k), This makes them efficient at higher rpm and Boost is higher than ex manifold pressure. Also you can control boost to maintain a flat torque curve for linear power delivery within driveline limits. Eg, if your gearbox is rated to 150 ft lb, you can add boost until you are at 140ft lb then add more when the torque would normally fall off to maintain the 140ft lb.
So the boost could be at 16psi at 4500 back to 13psi at 5500 then tapering up to 17psi at 7500

Hi Tom,
I have never had a failure using cast pistons, but changed to forged as a precaution once I was consistently making over 220Hp atw. I have done a few pulls on the dyno at over 30psi on cast pistons, but wouldn’t want to run at that boost over a race with the std pistons in it.
The fresh A12 will be fine for boost. Though I do like to run about .018” (.006/1” of bore diam)ring end gap when turbocharging an A12. For 15Psi you will get away with a tighter ring end gap than that.
Is the A12a all standard? ie, round port head, cam, springs etc.

Do you have acces to a workshop and a eddy current dyno?