https://i2.wp.com/www.australiastoughe ... 03/rod1.jpg?fit=658%2C439

nuts

Great lil beast Dave, looks awesome without the hood and all that cooling hardware!
Maybe a clear plastic nose would be a nice touch if someone made them and are legal.
I really love seeing the innards of these cars and always thought about getting one
with all the frame painted in some kind of copper or metallic shade for cladding it
with as many see through panels or sections as possible to show its innards.

Ive mentioned your queries to this guy in that link, we shall see what he says
but prob its for a single tbi like on cosworth styled boosted manis?

Do you need to re-sleeve your block which A series is it?
The quote i got 5 years ago was from Footscray engine reco
spoke to George who seemed the nicer one vs the gay bikie.
Had 2 a12s bore and honed there on for stock slugs the other
for A15 pistons for the sneaky A14/A12 1361cc stroker.

Both were early block with dizzie at the front for easy rego.
Also had my crankshaft balanced after using my angle grinder
to clear counterweights to fit A12 pan and rods suit a15 pins.
There are prob some good places your way but the ones I preferred
in the past have closed down or been sold on to others.

If I had to do it again, Id do the sneaky stroker A12again
that great torque from down low and went better than my
fresh stock A14 before it (both used the head, stock cams,
exhaust system, elec dizzie and inlet with same carb settings)
but got a canary so hence went to the SSA12.

Prob suits a turbo better than stock a12 or A14 I feel as the
pistons travel faster away from tdc due to short rods reducing
the rod stroke ratios that could reduce detonation.
However maybe the lighter rods and pistons play their role
on the overall feel of the acceleration vs A14 etc etc.

hows this doing dave?
found this guy on 1k.com might be too late for you
or not suitable, either way just in case
http://datsun1000.com/TopicView.asp?TopicID=1361&Page=1#Post10535

Im not sure thats his problem though, but its even better if bores are thin to re-sleeve for the 80mm then grout the bottom end. Sleeving is around 450-650 with hone then grouting can be done at home up to the welsh plugs. These forgies are suitable depending on compression needs eg. low comp (small chamber head)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-800-R ... 5hYeO82:rk:8:pf:0&vxp=mtr

higher comp (A14 crank/rods but A15 crank will need deck reclamation process to raise the deck 1 or 2mm before sleeving. A common on industrial and defunct engine blocks)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Forged ... :1&vxp=mtr&frcectupt=true

The Honda D16 forums recommend YCP and another chinese brand
here avail at 75mm 145usd for a set of 4
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/d1tecopi.html

whats the story with e15et slugs and rings? I thought
they were also quite good?

the fj24 engine alone is commanding crazy prices in japan these days

Thank you nak3d we wont feel so naked :)

There are alot of parents looking for solutions
in the US and pretty much everywhere but most
dont know where to look. This is very useful in
that the ratings and materials are now designed
to let microwaves in our cars making way for the
self driving cars of the ageing populous that are
sold tech/products to not use their bodies/brains

just for reference

Metallized film, like dyed film, keeps heat away from interior space by reflecting it away; in the case of metallized film, this is done by very small metallic particles – invisible to the eye – embedded in the film. This metallic content strengthens the window as well; in the case of a vehicle, the window will be that much more shatter-resistant when metallized film is used. Metallized window-tinting film creates a shiny appearance from the outside. It is more resistant to scratches than dyed film. When used in a vehicle, however, one drawback of metallized film is the fact that its metallic content has a tendency to interfere with cell phone and GPS transmission, not to mention radio reception.

Polarized using wires or Polarizer grids

For waves with electric fields perpendicular to the wires, the electrons cannot move very far across the width of each wire. Therefore, little energy is reflected and the incident wave is able to pass through the grid. In this case the grid behaves like a dielectric material.

Overall, this causes the transmitted wave to be linearly polarized with an electric field that is completely perpendicular to the wires. The hypothesis that the waves "slip through" the gaps between the wires is incorrect.[8]

For practical purposes, the separation between wires must be less than the wavelength of the incident radiation. In addition, the width of each wires should be small compared to the spacing between wires. Therefore, it is relatively easy to construct wire-grid polarizers for microwaves, far-infrared, and mid-infrared radiation. In addition, advanced lithographic techniques can also build very tight pitch metallic grids, allowing for the polarization of visible light to a useful degree. Since the degree of polarization depends little on wavelength and angle of incidence, they are used for broad-band applications such as projection.

Analytical solutions using rigorous coupled-wave analysis for wire grid polarizers have shown that for electric field components perpendicular to the wires, the medium behaves like a dielectric, and for electric field components parallel to the wires, the medium behaves like a metal (reflective).[9]

suzuki vitara 75 cheapos will hold 25psi
You prob know Simon used PJZ pistons for
one of his builds with machined tops