Wwwhy was the 1200 replaced by the B210?

Mareo

It could be that it is your transmission gearing that is causing your lag.

Does your transmission have aftermarket close ratio gearing or stock gearing?

There is a big gap between stock 2nd and 3rd gears which may drop a high rpm built motor below its torque/power rpm level when it is in the lower rpms of 3rd gear.

Just an idea.

Mareo
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They only sold the Datsun 1200s from 1971 to 1973. In 1974 the model was changed to the heavier B210 because America initiated the energy absorbing bumper laws. 1974 was the only year for the A13 motor in America.

The sedan is the one for sale in your link. It is mostly coupe 1200s in the photo section and on the avatars. The coupe has a fastback design and the sedan has a notchback. There were no utes, station wagons or 4-doors sold in America.

The sedans rode much smoother than the coupes because of the difference in the way the rear shocks are mounted. The sedan shocks are straight up and down where the coupe shocks are mounted at an angle.

The sedan has a much more rigid body because of the extra cross bracing behind the rear seat. The coupe has a much more loose feeling compared to the sedan.

The grill in the sedan for sale in your link has a coupe grill in it. The sedan came with a stainless grill and the one in the photo is the plastic coupe grill.

The coupes were sold probable 8 to 1 over the sedans here in America.

When I bought my first 1200 new in 1972, it was the only sedan on the lot with about ten coupes. I have had two sedans and five coupes. I definateely prefer the ride and handling of the sedan but the coupe cuts through the wind much better. My stock sedan would top end out at 94 MPH and the coupes would do 101 with the 4-speed and up to 107 with the automatic. The sedan roofline is about two inches taller than the coupe making more headroom on the inside of the sedan and more aerodynamics on the outside of the coupe.

Which is better is up to what you want the car for. Both get over 40 MPG if driven accordingly.

Does this sound about right to the rest of ya'll?

Mareo

Hi

I did take the trip around the country from Florida to San Diego to Seattle to Bangor Maine to the Outer Banks of North Carolina and back home here in Good Old Knocksfull, Tennessee, 7,100 miles and 5-months. I finally got to get out of here in March 2003 to start the trip. The stock A14, 5-speed and 185-60-14 rear wheels got the 1200 up tp 65 MPG if I kept the speed around 45 to 50 MPH.

I had some major problems with the car for a long time before I left on the trip. I replaced everything replacable and it still overheated. It turned out to be the ignition switch going bad and it only let partial voltage to go through it. I have never had any thing harder to diagnose than this one, not even with these newer cars with computers.

I haven't driven the car in two years now. It is rusted so bad that it is dangerous. I have had some major medical problems and I doubt that I will be able to afford to fix it.

In January, I was diagnosed with colon cancer and 8 weeks ago, they removed my complete colon. I am now recovering from that and have a urinary track infection for my efforts.

I will be back on here a bit but since I am not using the 1200 anymore, it may be in vain to be here.

I am now driving a 1954 Ford Crestline. The chrome and door handles have been removed and the interior is good. It is a great driver. I love the way it drives and handles. It doesn't have power steering, it doesn't need it. It steers real well when I parallel park. The original 239 CI OHV motor, Ford's first OHV V8, decided to go south lasy May. I replaced it with a 1972 Mustang 302 CI 4-bbl V8. I am going to replace the Holly 650 carb with the original 225 CFM 3-bolt Stromburg 2-bbl carb and the original oil bath air breather. I also have a set of 351 heads that have smaller valves and lower compression that may help in getting better gas milage. Gas is up tp $2.80 gallon here now and that is cheap for America. Gas milage rules.

Mareo

It has been a few years since have posted anything here.

I just got my May issue of CAR & DRIVER magazine a couple of days ago and what a surprise it was to find a great 4-page article on electric dragsters.

Most of the article is about JOHN WAYLAND and his tire smokin' WHITE ZOMBIE, a 1972 Datsun (not Nissan) 1200 sedan that is outfitted with a custom built siamesed pair of 8-inch electric motors that pull the 2300 pound car through a 12.151 second / 106.25 MPH quarter mile. The car has 30 12-volt batteries that pull about 325 HP and 772 pounds of torque.

I think it is neat to open a new mag about new cars that are on sale throughout the world and see an article with a 1200 as the hero.

Mareo

I had two different locks for my '73 1200. The door locks are from a Sentra. The ignition lock was lost. The trunk lock was originally from my '72 1200. I took all of the locks out of the car and took them to a quality locksmith. He replaced all of the tumblers and now I use one key for everything. The Sentra key is different but similar enough to work in the old worn 1200 ignition. I only use it to lock the steering column because the ignition switch has been shot for years. That cost me $40 US.

I only get one side of the ket cut though because I have had too many keys break off in the locks. When I had spares made at a local hardware and told the man to only cut one side, he was amazed that cutting only one side would work. He thought that both sides had to be cut. I told him about breaking keys in the past because they were too weak with both sides cut and that the tumblers were only on one side so I only needed one side of the key cut. He said that he learned something new every day.

Mareo

This problem has persisted through three water pumps so that is not the problem. It has good flow out of the head to the radiator. I use only NGK BP5EY V-Groove plugs and have since they first came on the market in the late 70s/early 80s so their heat range is not the problem. My timing is on 0 TDC right now so that is not the problem. The new High Compression head still pings when the motor is hot just like the old head did. I am using a lot of octane boost but it still isn't stopping the detonation when I give it much throttle, just like before.

Now, one person has said that they used the same carb and they had a similar overheating problem, just not as severe. The Holly/Weber has to go.

I am going to go with a fuel injection from a Sentra instead of another carb. It just makes more sense. Later I can add another throttle body to it. I do not want to use the port injection. Why? It only has one small port opening and very much restricts the amount of air that is available to the intake system. I want more air. More air means more HP. More HP means more fun. That is the reason that people use twin carbs, it lets in more air to breathe. The FI will regulate the amount of fuel in to the air much more good than a carb can. Right?

Mareo

Hey you guys.

Disregard the disagreement that RGRINDER and I are having and use the lube oil that is recommended by the manufacturer for your transmission and you will no go wrong. I personally have always used a thicker lube than the manufacturer recommends in everything (diff, tranny, and engine) and have had excellent success.

Mareo

Before trying to put the thick lube oil into a trans or diff, put it in hot water for 15 minutes. That will thin the lube oil and make for much easier flowing. I just bought a hose that threads onto the lube oil container and has a push/pull plug on the end. I take the shifter boot off and put the fill hose down through the the boot opening. I can see the fill plug through the opening so as not to overfill. I still have to go under the car to remove the fill plug from the trans but filling is much easier than laying on the ground.



Mareo

Find a carb from a 210? That's a joke isn't it? I haven't found one that has a good throttle plate shaft in years now. I have about 15 carbs in my posession and they all have the throttle shaft worn out. That is why I bought the Holly/Weber carb, because I couldn't find a place to order a good stock carb. The Holly/Weber was supposed to be jetted for the A14 and it has everything on it to bolt it up to the A-series manifold and linkage. I just haven't been happy with it at all for the past three years.

I want to say this about the cooling system. I doubt that anyone in this club has a radiator as large as the new one installed in my car right now. It is 27 inches wide, 18 inches tall and 3 cores thick of brand new crossflow radiator. It has an electric fan that runs all of the time. It has a 3/4 inch restrictor plate installed instead of a thermostat. The water pump is also new. The heating problem is not in the cooling system. If I let it set and idle, it runs very cool. The faster the car runs, the faster it heats up and it does not cool until I let it idle. My heating problem is not just a faulty guage, I have burnt a piston and blown a couple of head gaskets to prove that is just isn't a bad temp guage. I have replaced everything that makes a car go except three things,
1. heat range on the plugs,
2. coil,
3. and carburetor,
everything in my car is NEW. So please don't tell me again about it may be the temp guage, put in a B210 radiator, or it's OK to run without a thermostat for a couple of days. I only run a thermostat when I need heat. Mostly I don't want heat, I would rather run a cool engine. I have run months at a time with no thermostat, that is not the problem. My problems didn't start until I put the damned Holly/Weber on it. It will be off of the car this weekend. I am sorry to sound harsh but I thought that I knew the 1200 very well, I guess there are problems that I do not know and it has to be in the carb. There are no other option left. Has anyone ever had this type of overheating problem? Has anyone ever run the Holly/Weber carb?

Mareo