I'm trying to get a ball park of what ride heights fellow racers are running, I measured mine from just behind the jack point from the bottom of the body join. (the flat 20mm piece that runs the length of the car below the sill) , currently at 130MM / 5.125 inches.

The newly installed H190 has a whooping 1.5 inches of travel and more importantly the Diff snout is all of 1" from bottoming. Note I run the Nismo / Competition leaf springs, which the 1200 competition manual notes are to soft and the rear shackle needs to be modified to adjust the ride height so there is a minimum of 2" of travel.

The two choices are install the adjustable rear shackles or plasma cut a hole in the floor and weld in a new panel that allows for more clearance. Obviously I'll be trying the shackles first and if the handling is fine sticking with that.

Tom

I did some measuring; The pick up tube from mounting face to the screen is 158 mm, the pan is 172 mm deep, the pan gasket is 2 mm. So it screen on the pick up should be 16mm from the bottom of the pan. Subtract 7 mm and the pick screen is 9mm from the bottom. That should be enough. I have a couple of aluminum dry sump pans, this may be a good excuse to fab up a deep sump pan.

Tom

I know the answer but I assume you pulled the pan to pop it out. I suppose one could try and pop it out via the dip stick hole or via the drain plug. I'm really not in the mood to pull the motor again.............but after all the work frying a new engine would likely
cause me to drop a match in the fuel cell.

Tom

The oil pan on my newly installed A15 now has a 6-7mm dent in it. It's deepest by the oil drain plug maybe as much as 7mm and is about 3-5mm at the front near the pick up. I briefly started the engine and the oil pressure is it's usual 75-80 psi cold, so it appears OK. I seem to recall the screen is only about 13 mm off the bottom of the pan, so anyone know what the tolerance is 0 mm, 5mm or 13mm etc???

Tom

I have a set but the pin height is different from stock, something like 24-25mm


Tom

A couple of things, the A-series be it A12 pr A15 will run 6000 RPMs for hours one end. Back when our coupe was a road car we did a road trip where the car was floored for 2 hours, then some stop and go for 45 minutes then floored for 2 hours, stopped for gas, then floored for another hour....................this continued for pretty much three days. Amazining we didn't get a ticket since we seldom went below 80 MPH. The engine had no issue whatsoever, your hearing may suffer but not the motor.

While smaller circumference tires will up the RPM's it may end up increasing the speed ever so slightly (think 2 mph) as these cars do hit the aero wall starting about 75 mph and the stock gearboxes have pretty big RPM gaps in them.

Get a moderate cam, port the head, install a Weber 32/36 carb, decent shocks some sway bars and 185/60 tires and have fun with it.


Tom

Benny we must be running on the same track, there's a giant hole just off the circuit, that nasty critter bottomed a rear damper so hard it came loose.

I will be leaving the snubber off, the Addco bar is v shaped (pointy side up) inside the tunnel mounted just ahead of the snubber. When I mounted the sway bar 20+ years ago the fact that it was slightly off center didn't matter, the A15 has enough torque that the drive shaft just nicked it as the chassis heeled over. I got everything straight yesterday afternoon..............I missed my track day, I did break my standing rule of not entering the event till the car is ready to go and paid for it.

On the plus side the motor feels pretty good even with 1/2 throttle and low revs, I'll be out on an abandoned stretch of road (defunct mine) to run i the engine. We'll see how it goes just before I load it back up.

Tom

I'm curious for those who put a H190 in their coupe, what did you do for the pinion snubber? I have the anti tramp bar set up in the car and at the moment the snubber is out. I removed the snubber as the diff was very close to it, to the point that it would bottom before suspension. So cut it down or remove it altogether? In theory the tramp rods would keep the housing from twisting up and hitting the floor. There is some twist there, I found my sway bar had shifted to one side and one nut on the drive shaft bolts just nicked the sway bar. (note the Addco rear bar has a loop where it goes over the drive shaft)

Any info appreciated............

Tom

I'll give a list of some things I just did as I'm put an A15 in my coupe: I'll leave out the costs for things that needed to be rectified because the engine sat.

Forged flat top pistons with rings were $550, the machine shop bill was $920 (boring, balance,bearings, new guides and seats) bigger valves were $125, Gaskets etc $100, i bought a cam from another forum member $125..........so near $1900.

Now add in I had an existing GX head, Dual Valve springs, flat slide carbs and header, I got a smoking deal on the parts and still had $750.

$600 for a 4 speed close ratio box and I'll have $1300 invested in a upgraded rear end


So I'm pushing 5K pretty quickly, I'm expecting to be around 110 at the wheels, the motor idles OK and should make power from 3500-7500 rpms.


The A12 I had made 80HP at the wheels (this is probably around 92-95 at the flywheel and needed to be kept above 4500 RPMs..............I had about $1300 in it.

Tom

I went through all these various debates................and then just bit the bullet and coughed up the cash. Bought a parts car just to get the H190 axle, and then started selling off all the other bits, all said and done the H190 with LSD will cost me about $1300. It was the long way round but probably no worse then doing up your own.

Tom