Well just in case you do, here are some updates. Working on my 78 B210, My sons 77 is going to have to wait. A couple of the photos are repeats from an ealier post. Please be kind, this is my first attempt at body work (inspired by this thread).

Attach file:

---

  DSC01813.jpg (122.61 KB)


  DSC01814.jpg (119.83 KB)


  DSC01815.jpg (106.41 KB)


  DSC01816.jpg (167.82 KB)


  DSC01817.jpg (116.24 KB)


  DSC01818.jpg (192.71 KB)


  DSC01819.jpg (156.87 KB)


  DSC01820.jpg (103.58 KB)


  DSC01821.jpg (98.04 KB)


  DSC01822.jpg (119.15 KB)


  DSC01823.jpg (80.10 KB)


  DatsunO 002.jpg (52.84 KB)


  DatsunO 001.jpg (56.53 KB)


  DatsunO 007.jpg (52.68 KB)

Oops, I meant to post this on the B210/120Y thread, sorry.

Good work dude!

not bad at all for a first attempt. i want to give it a crack soon too, but i know already welding and me is going to be a struggle.

Gave the body work a rest tonight. Put in new KYB-gr2 shocks in and a new pinion seal, overhualed the rear brakes, but I ran into a snag, one of the rear wheel cyl was a little two wide not allowing the new drum on. I will try a new wheel cyl tomorrow.

Did you simply remove the pinion drive flange from the original H150 diff, replace the seal, then refit the drive flange?

According to the book, this is a no-no.
These diffs use a collapsible sleeve to control the pinion bearing pre load & it is supposed to be replaced whenever the pinion drive flange is removed as it cannot be compressed any further once it has been set at the time of manufacture.

Unfortunately this involves a total strip of the differential including removal of the pinion in order to fit the new sleeve.

Anyway, have a read of the workshop manual & decide for yourself.

good work on the patches. A few thoughts you might already be thinking about - take the paint removal out farther around the patches & run the filler out beyond the weld lines & feather to the body. Get rid of that other paint as much as possible, you can spread a large area of filler & when you start blocking it down it'll end up pretty thin but wide if done right. Your going to prime the whole thing anyways. Its OK to go over existing paint as long as its adhered properly to the car, any lifting at all & it needs to go first, Rough up w/80 grit & wipe with a wax & grease remover before applying filler.

Just some thoughts, keep at it - looks good!

Yes, it is a no-no by the book. In reality it worked for me. Just replaced the seal and not the crush part.

It is easier and cheaper to go to pull-a-part and get a replacement good used diff center for $25.

Thank you for the advice. I do plan on doing as you instructed on the body work. As for the pinion seal, it was an easy thing to do, so I thought I would give it a try. If it doesn't work, I will rebuild the whole rear-end. If I have to do this, does anyone know the part # for a 78 5spd crush sleeve?. Today I plan on switching out the wheel cyl. and I am going to install my door panels (I replaced the hard board). Maybee I will get back to the body work again, also.

The crush sleeves are NLA in US and Australia.