Hey Matto,

You may need a little more work to get 100hp Naturally Aspirated. I reckon you'd have to go for 1 throat per cylinder (i.e webers/dellortoes/mikunis/bike carbs) and you'd definitely need to get everything balanced.

The A10 flywheel is a fair bit lighter than the A14 but you can certainly take more off it.

I'm selling my flywheel soon if you are interested?




My motor pulled 100 horsies (little A12) here are some of the mods:

Bored 60 thou (flat tops).

Scorcher Ignition.

Twin 45mm DCOE's choked down to 32 (I think).

Lightened Flywheel.

Custom extractors.

Lightened Crankshaft.

GX Head + DV Springs.

There are a few other little things but not so significant to mention. Keep in mind your engine is of much bigger capacity so 100hp is easier to achieve without so many modifications.

my god chris that has been lightend lol

lightened flywheel won't make more horsepower ....

Wow thats some serious lightening on that flywheel, would it still be safe over 7000 rpm?

does anybody know what compression ratio i can run using 98 unleaded? also can i shave the A14 head much to raise compressio?

Sure a lightened flywheel won't pull more horsies but it'd certainly let them out pretty damn quick. That one has spun up to 9000rpm a fair few times.

I reckon you can press 11.5:1 at the absolute most. Instead of milling the head you should invest in some of my head shims, you can do a bit of experimenting with comp ratios? You can also get the shims machined even thinner to a more precise measurement.

Head Shims

Wait, that doesn't make sense does it? You're trying to increase comp ratio aren't you?

Nevermind... I've confused myself.

EDIT: You can get flat top or high comp pistons and not have to machine the head. The H89 is the head to go for, unless you have a GX head.

I ran what was called a "light sports grind" cam in my GX many years ago & it idled just fine at about 850rpm. Performance was excellent for what was a commuter & a family hack with both good performance when I wanted it, & great economy when I drove it like an old fart. [which is what I am now.]
The original 1200 GX cam was not very 'hot' & a similar profile will work well in any GX configured engine.

OK, the A10 flywheel. It will bolt right up to the later cranks but they originally used a smaller diameter clutch with a smaller bolt circle doameter & even smaller bolts to hold them on.

Additionally they had a groove machined around the edge of the clutch disc which will lie underneath the larger/later clutches.

To use the A10 flywheel on a later engine it will be necessary to machine the whole face of the flywheel down to the depth of the groove & to redrill it so as to accept the later clutch.
While you are at it tou can clean up the back of the flywheel too.

This is mine. I had it modified back in the early 80's & it weighs about 13 Lbs. I used it in my GX powered 1000 sedan for many years. [3.5mm or 0.140" overbored] It will likely end up behind the A13 for my KB10 after a good clean up, so yes, I still have it.

This is obviously the clutch side. Notice the ring of six smaller holes just outside the clutch disc marking. These originally were for the bolts that held the A10 clutch cover in place.

As always, click on image for a bigger picture.

















This is the engine block side of the flywheel.
Again, you can see the ring of smaller diameter bolt holes along with the fact that it has been machined.



















As can be seen, it doesn't take up a lot of room in the bellhousing.
One thing to note is the fact that the clutch will now sit a bit further forward & it may be necessary to use either the longer version of the release bearing carrier, or [as I did] use a spacer on the clutch cable adjustment to help bring the clutch fork far enough forward to gain satisfactory clutch function.
It's all too easy.

thanx for that dodgeman. A10 flywheel seems the goer as i already have one. its going in a 1000 so i have to mod the clutch cable anyways. i am however having problems locating a GX cam so i mite send mine of to be regound. if i do that, is all that i have to replace is my lifters? also does anybody know of any pistons that will fit A14 and give it about 10-11:1 compression ratio without having to machine anything. i have seen b4 using mazda pistons but i think u have to get the valve groove cut out in them. im not sure wether to stay with the stock pistons or not

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