engine randomly starts running very sluggish usually after warmedup
even full throttle it still runs very bad like its getting no power but after the revs slowly build up it sounds much better
the sluggish response comes and goes often
i suspect headgasket ,timing problem, blocked exhaust

also been getting alot of foam/moisture under cap ive never had before, oil is clean with no foam
could moisture from not having PCV or onewayvalves cause this?

i thank anyone who could give me some advice or answers

Check the simple things first and work your way through the problem.

Start with the points/condensor on the distrubitor. Then check little things like fuses, change spark plugs, plug leads, etc.... Make sure the fuel filter is not clogged.

Check for vacuum leaks.

im running electronic timing, it only does it when i release into a gear
lets say first gear then apply power it will respond very sluggish
i will change plugs and leads but i had them changed 1 month ago

how do i fully check for vac leaks, am i looking at the carburettor, inlet manifold and gasket?

No pcv does cause build up under cap. I was always paranoud id done a head gasket.

Don't change the leads unless they are bad. Test them. See Inspection under Spark Plug Wires.

Don't change the plugs unless they are bad. See Inspection under Spark plugs.

If you suspect blocked exhaust, disconnect the exhaust pipe and see if it immediately improves.

If you suspect the head gasket, do a Engine compression test followed by a Cooling System Pressure Test.

Quote:
Yes. Keep in mind that the inlet gasket is the least common cause of a leak.

For full instructions see Vacuum Leaks
* Cause
* Examination
* Testing
* Methods

i changed plugs it seemed the 4th cylinders sparkplug was all fhouled up and wasnt sparking what could cause this?
i was running electric fuel pump to mech fuel pump but it seemed like to much fuel to carb

cant get my timing down below 15degres before TDC would i be a tooth out?
if the carb float is more lean what degree BTDC is good? its currently like 10-15 BTDC with timing light

> 4th cylinders sparkplug was all fhouled up and wasnt sparking what could cause this?

Start with a compression test to rule out a basic mechanical problem


> i was running electric fuel pump to mech fuel pump but it seemed like to much fuel to carb

Why do you think that? Is the fuel level too high?


> if the carb float is more lean what degree BTDC is good?

It has nothing to do with rich or lean. 7-10 degrees is appropriate for the A12


> its currently like 10-15 BTDC with timing light

Which is it? 10 degrees or 15 degrees? If it is jumping around, there is a serious problem.

yes usually if i did a freeway run then stopping to check the fuel bowl it was above the halfwaypoint sometimes not causing the engine to idle very violently timing was also like, 25 BTDC with both pumps

now im just running a mech pump and its below the halfpoint
timing is like 15BTDC and is running better then before , idles pretty nice also better response
can having a different camshaft mean different timing? im running mildcam ATM
had a oldman do my carbi with 40years expierence so im thinking its not the carburettor

Yes. The electric fuel pump is likely too high pressure. Carburetors like 3 to 4 psi

Yes, timing varies slightly with different camshafts. However the A series should never exceed 36 degrees total timing and with a mild cam an A12 should not exceed 32 degrees. The pistons can be damaged. Since the distributor mechanical advance adds 25 degrees, the timing should be set to no more than 7 degrees at 800 rpm.

Now if you are running a big-bore A-series (A14 or A15) add 2 more degrees. And if running a long-duration camshaft add 2 more. But for a mild camshaft profile add zero more (unless by mild you actually mean long duration). Keep in mind that A14 distributors have more advance, so still are set to 7 degrees at idle, depending on the exact distributor (some are set to 10 degrees).