With the choke relay not working, the engine will load up (run rich) as soon as the engine warms

What I did was to unplug the choke relay, then jump Blue wire to Red wire in the relay harness connector. This lets the choke warm up. The only downside is if the IGN is put to ON, but the engine isn't started straight away, the choke will heat up and come "off" before the engine even starts. That could be a problem come winter

Of all the swaps I did, we never had one where the choke relay was reconnected. I think what you could do is cut the Yellow wire at the relay, and splice it to the WR wire at the alternator. Unfortunately I can't think of a way where a simple jumper would fix it

Thanks a lot for all this deep thought! I attach some more pics showing:
1 - where the relay is - as you suggested in front of the ignition
2 - My odd dash with the brake light below the instrument cluster next to the exhaust temp light (now disabled after cat removed when new exhaust fitted.
3 - the back of the presumed choke heater relay with its 4 wires

yours

Tobeshaw

Attach file:

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  position of relay.JPG (37.46 KB)


  dash showing brake light.JPG (28.54 KB)


  choke relay.JPG (31.60 KB)

I should have sent a pic of the block and the relay so here it is with the wire colours that now make more sense

Attach file:

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  choke relay and connector.JPG (84.29 KB)

That looks like the same Choke Relay the 1200 uses

1. Unplug relay
2. In the harness, jump White/Blue and Red wires

Red - to choke heater
Blue (L) or White/Blue - to Fuse 10A in fuse box IGN side
* (also to idle-cut valve if equipped)
Black - to ground/earth
Yellow - to "N" wire of regulator/alternator

Since the new alternator doesn't have an N connection, leave that unconnected

All should work fine, Both in Autumn, winter and summer. As long as you don't forget and leave the key on 5 minutes before trying to start the engine. If that happens, the choke will be warmed up and so not work ...

You are a genius! Thank yo so much. I'll do it this weekend and let you know how I get on

Excuse my ignorance but do I reinstate the original jumper that caused me the problems I.e yellow to white?

Ignore that last question. Of course I do!

Yes. However it got me thinking. If it has a idle-cut valve, it will still draw power




Solution: Unplug wire at carburetor, and run a new wire over to the choke relay IGN (White/Blue wire)

I just checked with a voltmeter and the idle cut valve only reads 12v when the ignition is on so I guess the final bit of cabling isn't necessary in my case

Cheers