Im collecting the parts needed to convert my ute to front discs.. as it has drums all round...

It has a dual brake circuit and master cylinder already... do i need to modify my master cylinder for the front discs as you do when converting to rear discs?

or should i be looking at a different master all together...

also do you guys recommend running a booster? if so what sort and what mods are required for fitting?

cheers

get a 120Y master cylinder and there easy too put on

i already have a dual circuit master cylinder...
the question i have is do i need to do anything to it to make it suitable for disc brakes?

doent the 1976 model have disk's up front?
just use b210 or 120y parts.... they will be better than drums. just do the stanza swap like you did on the last one.

Ill try and explain the question a bit better...

As most people know when converting to rear discs you hace to remove a certain part (a spring of somesort i think) from the master cylinder so that it applies more pressure to the rear discs....

do i need to do this to the front on my master cylinder since i have front drums? or is the normal front bias enough?

hope someone else is on the same wave length hehe..

sorry cant answer ur question, but i was just curious, did all dato utes come out with all round drum brakes. My ute has back drum and front disks, does this mean that the front has been changed to disks or did some certain models come out like this. Its a 1981 model!
Cheers

Hi Ange, No i wouldn't think that you would need to do anything to your existing master cylinder. Depending on what size calipers you are bolting on you may find that you get a lot of pedal travel, or you have a spongie pedel, if this is the case you may need to use a larger master cylinder to push more fluid to the front capliers. The best way to test this is by clamping a front brake hose to see if the pedal comes up.

not sure about the master, i would be tempted to change it but not sure about it

you will only need a booster once you go rear discs aswell in my opinion, no booster gives good brake feel without too much effort

I don't think you'll need to do anything.

The size of the master cylinder is not critical -- or whether you need a booster. That's only for 'how hard you have to press the pedal'. Smaller master cylinders are easier to press, but have a longer stroke. Larger masters give a harder pedal feel.

I could be wrong, but I don't think 1200s use a limiter valve like most Fords and GM -- for standard 1200 disc brakes or all-drums. Instead it is the size of the wheel cylinders that are proportionate. The all-drum cylinders are bigger (13/16 front and rear, same as the 510). The rear cylinder on disc-brake models are smaller (11/16).

So the important thing is the proportionate size of the rear wheel cylinder. For stock 1200 disc brakes, use the small 11/16 rears. For larger disc brakes, use the size from the donor car. Or use an adjustable brake proportioning valve.

The tandem cylinder is as follows: one line goes to rear brakes. The other line goes to the pressure switch, and from there to front left and front right.

thanks guys... i might just see how the brakes perform with my current master cylinder as it is... then take it from there..

first i have to find some stanza struts...
which has proven to be a difficult task this time around....