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Re: Stupid Question
Just can't stay away
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2002/6/30 5:40
From santa maria,ca
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thanks dim, any ideas on fabricating some new mounts? I have access to an arc welder. This will be the biggest project I've ever done, but I'm not too worried about it. Especially with all the people on this site to help me out...lol. But, seriously, I found an 81 210 station wagon that some dude is parting out. Any special parts I should get off it?

Posted on: 2002/7/22 16:22
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Re: Stupid Question
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Different people have different ideas on the mounts. I have seen a thick metal plate bolted to the chassis extending forward to line the rubber mounts up with the stock A-14 mounts. I have also seen the parts that bolt to the engine extended back to meet up with the chassis.
I have pictures of how Gil's mounts were done, I'll post them if I can find them. It has the engine parts extended back on the distributor side and a modified mount bolted to another set of holes on the carburetor side.
At one point, someone was going to try and swap in a B-210 or 120Y crossmember but I haven't seen any more progress reports on that.
My recomendation, hang the engine where you want it and finger out what needs to be extended where to make it fit. That's how all of mine have been done. No two are alike.
As for the 210 wagon, see my reply under the heading "Japanese 1200s" or whatever it was. Basically it says, "get the whole car if you can for there are parts a-plenty."

Posted on: 2002/7/22 19:53
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Re: Stupid Question
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Ok, I'll do that once I get the motor in my hot little hands. I just came from a junkyard and they have a B-210 with an A-15 in it. Which motor would you go with? The A-14 or 15? I'm definately getting the radiator as it is much bigger than my stock 1200. Looks brand new too. The guy said he would give me the 13 inch wheels and tires off it for 40.00. I can't freakin' wait!

Posted on: 2002/7/22 20:17
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Re: Stupid Question
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Displacement equals torque but lowers the redline. Or so "conventional wisdom" says. I've never used an A-15 so I have nothing good or bad to say about them. The A-14 is a good engine though. Mine started eating pushrods though. Still don't know what that's all about.
I'd say use the engine that will require the least amount of rebuilding. But I'm lazy.
Congrats on the find.
By the way, the pictures of Gil's engine mounts are up. The correct description is in a post under each one. Ignore the description that automatically pops up.

Posted on: 2002/7/22 20:32
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Re: Stupid Question
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Ok, you just convinced me. An A-14 it is. Besides, the A-15 had a lot of crap on it that I don't feel like messing with. Also, thanks for putting the pics up. I'm gonna check those out right now.

Posted on: 2002/7/22 20:40
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Re: Stupid Question
Just can't stay away
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well, I sure couldn't ask for pics any better than that...lol. Those were perfect. It doesn't look like the new mounts will be that far off. I was expecting them to be at least 10-12 in off. At any rate, I'm sure I'll be able to fab something that will work. Thanks again dim.

roughneck

Posted on: 2002/7/22 23:00
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Re: Stupid Question
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The non-dogleg 5-speed fits in real easy -- I used either the stock mount or the one from the 1980 car (can't recall now). The backup light switch stuck out in the way of the tunnel though, so I removed it and plugged the hole.

The engine motor mounts -- swap one of the left and one of the rights. The other side, 'ya gotta block off the fuel pump hole (use an electric pump). I took a small piece of plate metal with two holes in it, one to bolt to the frame bracket, the other to put a stock motor mount in offset from the original. I then cut a stock engine bracket in pieces and cut them just about right with a hacksaw, then had a welding shop weld 'em back up shorter. It was fairly easy in the end, just took a lot o' looking and thinking.

A14 or A15? I've had both. I say just get whatever is available (runs good and is inexpensive). The stock 1200 4-speed won't live behind the A15. I did prefer the A14 slightly, but the A15 was fun with the low-end power. My experience was that they seemed like different engines altogether, except they both ran Datsun smooth and quiet.

A good way to test a running engine for wear is:

- Rap the throttle (3k rpm blips) while watching the exhaust pipe. You don't want to see any bluish-white smoke. This is oil burning, and drifts off into the sky but doesn't dissapate. White smoke that disappears into the air is just water vapor and not a problem. Black smoke indicates carburetor or choke problems.

- With engine running, pull the valve cover breather hose off at the top back of the valve cover. If you see a little smoke vapor coming out, that's not a good sign. Further, with pliers pinch the big hose that goes to the PVC valve (into the manifold just below the carb). Watch the breather opening carefully -- put your hand behind it to tell if any vapor is coming out of the engine (while keeping the PVC hose pinched).

If both tests are absolutely clear, the ring sealing is good and it won't burn much oil. I never buy a car that has visible crankcase vapor or oil smoke out the pipe.

Get the throttle cable -- the most unreliable part in the entire 1200 universe. Always keep a spare on hand.

One last thing, get the bigger exhaust system (1-3/4 inch) out of the A15 Sunny car -- if it's in good shape.

Posted on: 2002/7/23 5:13
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Re: Stupid Question
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Thanks for the tips dd. Really appreciate it. I'm going to get the tires and wheels off the car tomorrow, so I'll check the condition of the exhaust. Thanks again.

roughneck

Posted on: 2002/7/26 5:57
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