I put the car




onto a dyno since it was not running lekker.

before: 56.3kW @ 5025, 118Nm @ 3005.
after: 72.8kW @ 5214, 143Nm @ 4106.

This is for a pretty stock (I think) A15, just got a free flow exhaust and 40DCOEs.

Not sure how that stacks up with anyone else, and dyno readings can't really be compared.

On another note, they noticed that there was water escaping from between the head and the block Since the A15 was never imported into SA getting a new one might be a tad on the difficult side. Is the A14 head gasket interchangable? Or do any South Africans know of a dealer that might carry A15 parts?

well u can buy bakkies, (1200 utes) from south africa brand new, im sure ur local nissan dealer will be able to help you out.

Kegs,
Yeah, the B140 is common as muck here, but uses the A14. I'm not sure if the head gaskets are interchangable. If they are then getting one is very easy, if they're not then it's a different matter.

I'm tempted to buy an A14 from a scrappy if parts supply becomes an issue. I'll just need to check if the gearbox (appears to be 60 series, probably FS5W60A?) will match.

Yes head gaskets between the A14 and a15 are the same.

I guess I know what I'm doing over the weekend then

About the only things of significance that are diferent betweem the A14 & the A15 are the crankshaft [5mm longer stroke] & the pistons [lower deck height to accomodate the increased stroke, & slightly bigger dish to keep compression within limits]
Even the rods are the same, so an A14 gasket kit should service an A15 engine.

I've got the head off and put up a couple of pictures...







Anything that I should take particular note of?

The engine was blowing water out the gearbox end of the head/block interface (the left in head shot, right in block shot). The second cylinder appears not to be firing (black exhaust valve), the first has a nice furry valve which I guess is due to the water. On the block it appears the gasket has stretched out towards the ends of the blok from the first/last cylinder.

Just wondering if anyone notices anything else, since this is the first time I've done this sort of thing

Quote:

coolant is highly reccommended to replace the "water" when you get it back together

Looks to me like 1 and 4 were about to blow the gasket and 2&3 are looking a bit shetchy around the central water gallery. I have seen oval head gasket holes like that before on brand new gaskets- not sure if they were just cheap ones or if there is a reason for it.

Lot of oil in no3 and combined with the black exhaust valve and shiny bore methinks a full freshen up may be in order? cant see any ridges at the top of teh bore so glazing may not be too bad?

Certainly some good numbers out of it though!!! 70 somthin kW!!!
I'm assuming that is calculated back to the flywheel, not at the wheels

What is the before and after?

Are those figures at the rear wheels or flywheel?

For comparison, my A14GX did 50kw @ the wheels.

Shows you how much of an impact sideez have

The car went onto the dyno because I was having a little stutter in progression, thought that maybe they could help diagnose the webers. As it turns out they pointed me in the direction of the blown gasket.

Didn't ask how the power was calculated, but when the head is back on I'll take it back and get more info.

I'm told all they done was play about with the timing, though I don't see 30%-ish in timing alone. They are meant to be reputable, but I have no experience with them previously.