Dude, I found an intake for duel SU's for my A12/A13 head engine and after reading about your problems im wondering if i should do it.LOL

Lets see here...stumbles after 5000...
Did you check the coil with an OHM meter?
Is the coil conneted with the right polarity? +/- sides are not reversed
What if you swap the pick/up out of the distributor with one from the junkyard(cheap)?just to see if there is a change
What about the idea that your valves might be floating?
Did any of the wiring get moved around and now your ignition box is picking up some EMF and missfiring? Bad grounds and bad plug wires may cause this extra
noise.
Sorry if some of these seem silly. With a frustratiing problem like this, the obvious can get overlooked. I took half my engine apart once, all because a
fuse had blown!
Good luck
Angelo

Hey, in all honesty, I love how these SU's perform, they get good gas mileage too. I am almost positive my misfiring has anything to do with them. I haven't checked my coil yet, it's one of
those big yellow Accel Super Coils, and I'm not sure how to check it with my ohmmeter. I think the problem is ignition related though. We took the distributor apart and found that the vacuum
advance was not working and that advance springs were frozen as well. We fixed those two things and the car does run better, but it still misfires, and now runs like there is moisture in the
cap (but there really isn't). It does the misfiring intermittently, in 1st gear it is almost non existent, but in all the others it misfires above 5500 rpm. Another thing though is that it
doesn't do it just when it's floored, it also does it if I'm a partial throttle at those rpms. The car will still rev to over 7000 if I keep it floored, so that makes me doubt it's valve
float. Any more ideas? This is really bugging me, and it makes me want to not even drive it anymore even though I love my car. In fact, I'm thinking of buying a 92 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe
to replace it. The Super Coupes have supercharged 3.8L V-6 w/over 200hp, these cars are fast and fun. Anyways HELP!

-Andy

if you really need another idea i have one..., my standard A12 had SIMILAR problems but they werent exactly the same symptoms.
the car would fart and splutter in all different rev ranges and i have finally fixed as much of the problem as i can without changing carbs.
my problems was that the little tube that feeds fuel into the venturi was blocked up. if you can get your hands on pipe cleaners used in cleaning welders, then you can use different guage
wire to see what fits and whether it is blocked or not.
in the standard carb there are 2 (one for each barrel) and one of mine (primary one) was only delivering about 20-30% of the fuel that it could.
i changed the main body with another spare i had and it worked fine, car runs better now but i would still love to put a 32/36DGV weber on.
you can test to see whether these tubes are delivering fuel by removing the air cleaner assembly, look down the barrel(s) as you press the accelerator pump down. you should see a constant
stream of fuel entering he venturi. it flows fairly quick too, thats why i didnt notice it because i never saw one working at full capacity.
hope this helps as i know webers are different to standards (HITACHI?) but it cured my problem.
i hope in all honesty you find the problem as i think we all know how anoying problem finding is especially when you have check nearly everything.

Simon

P.S. try (if you havent already) getting someone you know who knows carbs and engines too look over the engine. dont tell them what you have checked, let them do it. no offence but they might
pick up on something.

Hi Andy, Your distributor sounds like your problem for sure. I have had that problem a couple of times, i.e. the roller balls coming out from between the plates. That does sound like the cause
of all of the problems. I have the Weber carb on my A14 and it runs good enough but it sort of klled my gas milage. I wish I had a new Hitachi carb. I can get over 65 MPG with the Hitachi and
am now restricted to less than 40 MPG. Also I can't find a breather to fit on the Weber and still close my hood. The only problem with my Hitachi is the butterfly shaft wears and lets air leak
around it and it has a hard time idleing.
As for the Thunderbird, it is fast but when a little 1200 passed you in a turn, you will want your 1200 back. Spend your money on a turbo for your 1200 and you will be more happy. The 1200 is
a better engineered car and the A-series engines will hold together better than the Ford V6 also. Simplicity wins races. You can get 200 HP from your engine for the price of the T-bird and
have half of the weight. HP to weight ratio is greatest with the 1200. A 100 HP A-engine would be quicker that the T-bird and still give you gas milage. That's my two cents worth.
Mareo Speedwagon

I haven't had time to troubleshoot anymore with the distributor lately. I am thinking of biting the bullet and buying a new electronic distributor if I can't find a used one around here.
Before I do that, I'm going to swap my dad's distributor in tomorrow and see if I still have the same problem or not. My dad and I fixed everything inside the distributor except the magnet on
the stator (it's cracked), I am getting the same problems still, and it almost seems worse. Even under light throttle at as low as 3400 rpm you can hear the engine misfire slightly. I am
praying its nothing more than the distributor, and I'll find out for sure tomorrow. I checked the coil out today and it is good. I will keep you guys all posted on what the deal is.

As for the Thunderbird, you're right, my car can be just as fast if not faster, and pass it up on the turns. The only reason I was considering it is because I haven't gotten my car fixed yet.
I drove those SC's before and I thought they were really fast, but this time was different. Last time I drove a T-bird SC, I was driving my car without the dual SU's and header. This time,
the SC didn't seem much faster than my car at all! Those cars are supposed to run low 15's stock, so that tells me my car isn't far behind! I think I could smoke it if I had a little money to
invest in my car. I would love to put the multi point fuel injection, a small turbo, and a built cyl head on my car (40mm intake valves, 34mm exh, roller rockers). Malvern Racing makes these
valves for $575/set! I think it would be easy to get 200 hp with that setup! Maybe I should just write you an email this is getting long. Talk to ya later

-Andy

Andy,
I will look tomorrow and see if I have a distributor. I know that I have a couple of spares but I am not sure if the roller beads are in place in them. They are from A14 and A15 motors. To fit
them in an A12 block, the blot slot has to be fitted from an A12 dist. I usually cut the slot out and put a large washer on to the hold down bolt. It works fine that way. Electronic dist. is
the way to go. I like the B210 dist. better than the 210. but both are great. You shouldn't use the vacuum push/pull dist. though, just the vacuum pull one, much easier to install and adjust.
You have to use the coil from an electronic dist with it. The point dist. has the resister on it and is only 40,000 volt whereas the later coil is 60,000 volt. A while back, did you say you
needed a grill? I have one.
I found a coupe in a junk yard today. It is mostly there but rusted and it's an automatic. I may get the tranny for mine. It will kill gas milage but the auto is much faster than the stick as
I am getting older and shifting is losing its appeal. I need a front bumper but the one in the junk yard is too rusted. The right side id bent up pretty good. I bought the drivers door for
$50. My glass got broken and he wouldn't sell just the glass.
PAECO in Birmingham, Alabama has excellent valve train equiptment for a reasonably price. If you buy a whole motor from them, they will guarentee it for one race weekend. Nobody else in the
world will do that. They make that good of equiptment.
Good luck,
Mareo Speedwagon

Hey thanks for the advice, I could really use a distributor (79-82) if you have one, let me know what you find, how much you want for it, and when you could send it. I just ordered a brand
new one yesterday, and it won't be here until at the earliest Tuesday (even though they told me it would be here today). If I can get a working used one, I would just return the new one when
it comes. I was unable to get an older B210 (74-78) distributor to work in my car. The newer one from my A15, all I did was disconnect the wires from the old distributor, drop the new one
in, and hook one wire to the positive of the coil and one to the negative of the coil. I left all other wiring, resistors, heat sinks all hooked up. I don't know what the coil I have is
rated at for volts...it's one of those big square lookin yellow Accel Super Coils.

About that coupe in the junkyard--does it have a fairly solid floor? I am looking to get floorboards and the tranny tunnel from an automatic 1200. If it has a few rusty spots it's okay, my
floors have huge holes in it, its just rusted through big time, to the point that it's somewhat unsafe. Let me know, I could really use the floor. Tennessee isn't too far from me, so I could
drive down and get it on one of these next weekends as long as they don't crush it. My email is errrnstak@hotmail.com email me and let me know what's going on.

-Andy

Look for rust where bulkhead joins to side under dash forward of front door hinge support. Can leak there and looks
okay but its not.
rempnz