Also should have the other CA built for the suzuki in the next couple of weeks, and that means that i need to get the 1200 tuned so that i have the ECU AFM and injectors to use in the suzi engine. So it should be lots of happy fun times when that happens

looks good mate, hope to see it in the flesh one of these days

Im sure someone will organise a cruise one of these days. Might go to DatNats also for a look...possibly

So, any one that's seen the wagon, or the old sedan, would know that it runs a copious amount of camber. I've known for quite some time that this amount of camber did no good other than looking really aggressive.
it also ran a visually different amount of camber on one side to the other.
So on the weekend I decided id see what I could do to get the camber to a more street friendly angle. So armed with some flat/level ground, a square, a ruler and some basic trigonometry skills I set about making things right

I thought I was running around 1.5 degrees on one side and 2.5 on the other. Turns out I was running 3.3 and 2.8
First mission was to try to even the camber out, I adjusted the control arms in by around 10mm so they were both 10mm shorter than a standard stanza lca. Got to about 1.8 and 2.8, my goal was 1.5
Next step was moving the crossmember, I decided that the tiny bit of adjustment in the holes for bolting the crossmember to the chassis wasn't enough, ended up moving the holes somewhere between 5-10mm across and welding the rest of the hole up so it couldn't move back
That got me to around 2.3 degrees on each side, with my lcas on their shortest setting.
A bit more than I wanted but atleast got them within .15 degrees of each other. Got then down to 1.5 ish with the tops on about their middle setting, could get to half a degree with the camber tops all the way out
As I have the tops in diagonal it means I lost a bit of castor too which isn't that bad as its now a bit easier to steer

But it seems much nicer going around slow tight corners with the extra rubber on the ground
Now to send it off for a wheel alignment to see if my measurements were accurate and to get the castor evened out and toes set

Nice work. I did it with string but no measurements,lol. Just texts marks on the string til sort of even

does it have 2.3 degrees camber or 2.3 degrees negative camber?

Was negative

So I got new tires recently, re002 potenzas, and also got a wheel alignment done.
Im pretty surprised at how close I got the rear end to being square after the coil conversion.
Ended up only needing about a quarter of a turn on one of the rear arms to get it even left to right.
Was pretty funny watching the guys doing the wheel alignment try to figure out the rear end....clearly hadn't had too much experience with modified cars.
Ended up having to tell the guy how to do the alignment.

Front end was also pretty good. Camber was even at -1.45 degrees each side. Toes were Pretty good but just off centre. Castor was 6 and 5.09 which isnt surprising as I couldn't measure it myself. Unfortunately the guy didn't adjust the Castor as he didn't know what he was doing

Also swapped the locker out for an lsd. Lsd needs to be shimmed up so its a bit tighter. Didn't really know what sort of break away torque it should have, It came up higher than the figure I found for when they are dead, but obviously not high enough

You know the castor figures you can guestimate your adjustment from there

Good to hear the rear ends hanging together too.

Thought i might as well update this thread after the dyno day also

So first run as ive been driving it around was about 130rwkw on 8psi
upped the boost to 12-13psi and ended up with 166rwkw at around 6000rpm

As i thought with the ca16 inlet cam and the lower boost is wasnt really making the power till after 4500rpm, went from about 80kw at 4500 up to 130kw at 7000rpm and boost was creeping up to 10psi after 5k

With the higher boost, the boost actually comes on much sooner and low end power is back up to pre cam levels. so i guess i wont have to worry about changing back to the standard cam to get the low end power back.

Still have the 440cc injectors and z32 afm to go onto the car then get it properly tuned and see what power it can get when its more than just the boost level being increased