well i put the s13 rad in and have ironed out the mounts(dodge currently but need to find the bigger drill bits) but still havent started is, but no leaks from hoses or newer water pump i installed.

had a few days of drama's water pump rtv sealant didnt seal i thought, [ulled it out again, cleaned it, light sand to roughen up edges then new rtv sealant, still appeared to be a slow leak.

Ends up being from the timing chanin cover and block, not the water pump. wtf, the design pf the a series makes the water pump bolts and nust put pressure on timing chain cover and then the block, but my seal between block and cover appeared persihed. CRAP DESIGN!!!!

i sealded i with engine in car with metal putty stuff, no more leaks then noticed one weeping hose clamp, hose clamp wasnt clamping properly. Replaced and all good now. 1 day no leaks so might start it and burp system tomorrow night. then take for a dirve to test (been 5 weeks!)

My query is would the leak between block and water pump hosing possibly cause slightly running hot when in traffic? due to pressure loss in system and no air over due to freewheeling clutch fan?

10 icnh thermo fan and stock 4 blade one should work, til L series goes in, might wire ina 7 inch fan on drivers side, so a 10 and a 7 inch, just need temp switch to match and turn on though

pic of new set up, looks almost same as old, excpet cross over pipe under rad and front pulley

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Well... considering in 10 years I had zero overheating problems in the 1200 with a stock radiator and the stock engine fan, the original fan and an S13 radiator should be more than enough until you fit the L-series.

In Adelaide it tends to get hotter than it does in Melbourne so you shouldn't have a problem (yes - I was driving the 1200 in traffic last year in our 6 days over 46 degrees and it never even looked like overheating, although I was pretty hot in the driver's seat!)

As for the seeping leak... by principle you should just fix all leaks when you find them. Running out of coolant will cook your motor quicker than anything else.

never noticed a seeping leak or even loos of coolant which made it weired in the 5 years ive had this thing.

it has always had a tendancy to run hotter in traffic and up hills for a bzare reason, the only thing i never touched was the water pump and didnt notice the leak till i did.

I have tried all kinds of radiators, stock, sunny, 1000 3 core one, n13 pulsar was better but that started doing it too, so hopefully the water pump swap and fixing that leak will fix it.

Ive gone through 4 thermostats in the chance it was one of them but no luck there.

if your timing cover has warped from an over heat you probly could mill it true.

car has never over heated to that extent, only once since i had it, and i shut it down before it hit H, sealed it all up now, shouldnt leak ever again

Just a thought - were all the other radiators you tried second hand? Perhaps they have been partially blocked - the first thing I did when we got the 1200 was put a new recore in it. (I hate overheating, so the first thing I do when I buy a car is thoroughly refresh the cooling system).

Otherwise I'd be having a good hard look at the head gasket. If you go to a radiator place, they can do a litmus test to see whether there's exhaust gas in the coolant.

had 2 of the 4 cleaned out at the radiator shop, did the test no gas in coolant about 6 months ago. no milky oil etc either so this should sort it.

Also as revhead has stated, car is steright lpg so automatically runs about 10deg higher in operating temp than it did on petrol. L series should fix it all ;) my excuse any way

drove fine last night, then ran at 180degf. went home, poped bonnet and bottom seal from water pump was weeping a little, took it out and resealed with rtv.

Little tip, make sure you fully dry the water pump housing, water still trickles down when the bottom hose is connected. This lillte tricle washed out the rtv sealant making a lillte break in the seal.

annoying.

The A-series design is GREAT. One report of problem doesn't make it a bad design.

Yes, RTV is tricky to use. In the past we have recommended quality stock type gaskets and many said RTV will work well if carefully applied.