I find it odd that the top two and bottom two bolts on the diff housing are missing? Been that way since I got the ute.

Haha that is odd

Quote:

I'm in the middle of changing my LCA bushings.

What i don't understand is that the literature says to torque the bolts and nuts on the steering linkage to specification when the car is under ride height/load.

Stupid question, How do you do this when the car is on the ground?

You can use ramps, stands etc, as long as the suspension is under load. Otherwise the bush will twist and excessive amount and won't last very long.

That's right, it's for the LCA bushings and not the steering linkage. Under load mean sitting on the ground, with the weight of the car on the springs. In other words, not with the car raised on jack

Reminder

Hook this up:

[img] http://datsun1200.com/uploads/photos/23997.jpg[/img]

[img] http://datsun1200.com/uploads/photos/19455.jpg[/img]

Today i made a lot of progress. Pictures to come.

Oil and filter changed.

Battery relocation kit installed. I made a body earth wire to the bracket that holds the battery in place. (See previous photos). I ran the positive cable from the battery looping around the back of the cabin. Drilled a 3/4inch hole behind the drivers seat on the vertical face of the cabin. Removed drivers seat first. Installed a grommet and ran the battery cable across the cabin floor to the right side of the gas pedal. I routed the cable up the firewall and ran it through the hole where the latch release cable goes. I don't need it since i am using hood pins down the road. Put another grommet in.

Purchased a positive distribution post 3/8 inch stud and installed that on the drivers strut tower facing the fire wall. Hooked the battery to the post. With excess cable I made a separate positive cable to the starter motor from the distribution post.

Made a body to engine earth cable. Bolted that to the frame where the factory diagrams show it. (There was a plastic rivet type cap concealing this)attached the other end to the engine near the oil filter like the tech wiki shows.

Made a jump wire from the distribution post to the positive side of the coil. Ran the negative side to the distributor.

Put some gasoline in the Weber 32/36 :)

With a fire extinguisher present I gave power to the battery. Engine cranked the first time but did not fire. Second and third time there over the stater turned on but did not engage.

After a few blows with a wood block and a hammer to the starter I got it to engage again. Cranked again but no fire.

Pulled a spark plug and tried to see if there was spark but there is none.

So close to starting it! I don't know if its a bad dizzy cap or the coil is not
working with the jump wire. The cap is very corroded so i am going to get a new one this week and try again.

Dizzy part number begins with D4R85
According to the tech wiki, Ive got an E series electronic dizzy.

Only problem is I can't find the BOSCH GM554 dizzy cap part here online in the USA ???

Need help.

Can't just take the cap into Jegs or Autozone or whatever you guys have over there to see if they have anything on their shelves that's the same?

Unfortunately they dont really do that here. The first thing the store clerk asks is what year, make, model is your car and they look up on their computer what part is listed for that car.

Very rarely do they look at your part and try to match it to something else.

I just need to do more research and find a car here in the US that used that same dizzy and then go in and tell them the year,make,model and i might be in the business.