Any Advice Guys
I have an A15 motor fitted with standard Hitachi carb. With the following problems:

Terrible Fuel Economy, Blows black smoke(rich) especially at start up - almost like soot out of tailpipe!, i have attempted to set mixtures but screw is basically wound in as far as it will go and I am unable to lean off the mixture any more.
Runs ok when driving - just very smoky under acceleration.
Any advice would be great as fuel is too expensive to have dribbling out your tailpipe

Also how do I connect up anti diesling solenoid to stop the ^$#^##$@$ thing running on when i turn it off.
Thanks Guys. Help is much appreciated. I am trying to find a 32/36 Weber setup but cant find one, so I wil have to sort this out ASAP

Hey Buff ask 1200rallycar I am quite sure he's got a couple of 32/36 webbers just lying around as for the fuel solenoid, I don't know where the best place is but my guess would be a soleniod that opens when the ignition is on, so you would just have to connect it up to your ignition circuit. I had the same troubles with those type of carbs just not as bad, most of my problem was in with the fuel float and coil.
Cheers
Damo

Hi Buff, connect the anti-dieseling solenoid valve to +12 ignition (tap into the hot side of the coil ballast resistor). Also set the idle speed to 700rpm ... the higher the idle the worse the run-on.

The power valve diaphragm could be busted, leaking fuel ... but I think this wouldn't affect the idle.

Take a look first at this similar discussion:
need help now with 1200
Tech Section article Carb adjustment, troubleshooting, rebuild and inspection

Thanks for the advice. I have read the two articles you mentioned but here is the dilema:
This is what i have done:removed top off carb - blow out and clean all passageways etc, remove clean and blow out main jets, set float level (spot on),check accel pump plunger ok, the carb i have on has a manual choke so i have connected that up, remove and blow out all idle jets etc, thorough clean entire body inside and out with carb cleaner, retension inlet manifold gasket, carb gasket etc, clean and check connection at pcv valve etc etc etc.
Car goes excellent on highway with excellent acceleration but.....at low speed constant throttle seems jerky and intermittently cutting out when pulling up at lights etc.
would this have anything to do with:
A: Idle stop solenoid not working 100%
B: Wear in throttle shafts
c: Maybe a valve not seating correctly or even head gasket?
The car has a very erratic stumbling idle and you can detect an intermittent miss at the tailpipe (slight popping).
My next step is to perform a comp test and also a cylinder leakage test.
Would the wear in the throttle shafts cause this?
Anything else you can think of?
Cheers

Wear in throttle shafts? Yes, that would cause a vacuum leak. You should be able to feel the wear, the shaft should not move side to side at all. A carb shop can add bushings if necessary.

First thing is to make sure the anti-dieseling valve is connected. It should "click" when turning the ignition on/off. If this valve isn't open you cannot set the idle correctly.

Then I'd do what you are doing ... compression test.

Sorry, I forgot to mention yes there is some movement in the throttle shafts I just wasnt sure how sensitive this is with this engine / carby setup.
As for the shut off solenoid. Yes it does click on and off with the ignition but it still runs on at times. Is it possible that the spring or magnet inside can lose tension so it isnt quite shutting it off? The other carb that was on this motor had the shut off solenoid in place but the needle inside had been removed.
Its just the slight pop/cackle out the back that worries me as i dont imagine the throttle shaft wear would cause this?
Maybe yes a fluctuating idle but would it cause this type of drama?
I'm starting to get agitated with this problem - why doesnt anything go right first time

You're right--- the Hitachi Carb is a heap of crap.

I had a Weber 32/36 on an A14 in a Sunny Wagon and it made a world of difference, but I've just sold it. No more running on, no more flat spots, no more BS. Just heaps better performance.

I got mine at Pick a Part, off a Cortina 2000 and bought the adaptor at East Coast Autos.

I put a service kit thro' the carby and put it on the Dyno at Bayswater Dynamotive and they fixed the jets.

With a 5 speed O/D box, and driven sensibly (??? rarely happened!) you can get 8.8 L/100KM consumption.

forgot to say also that i did spray some carb cleaner around the throttle shaft and the revs did increase while i did this so yes it is sucking air - but i'm still thinking the problem lies a bit deeper.............................

Yep. if i had my way i'd have a weber on there now.Unfortunately i havent been able to track one down yet, so i have to sort out this problem as the car is daily driven at the moment. If it turns out to be something a bit more drastic like head or valves etc, i think i will just rip it out do the rebuild now and do it properly rather than patch it up only to pull it apart again later this year.
NOTE: When it gets rebuilt I can assure you that there will be not one HITACHI part on the thing
Are the 32/36 webers like you had the same as 2litre escorts etc and are the carbs all the same or is there a preferred one to get hold of?
Cheers.

The Hitachi is a good carb. But just like a Weber, they can wear out after many years of use. If the carb is bad, by all means replace it or repair it. Just don't put a worn-out Weber on it.

The revs changing when you spray -- yeah that's a serious problem. It could cause the uneven idle.

Also try removing the solenoid needle to see if idles better. It could be stuck partway, causing both bad idle and bad runon ...

There is no preferred Holley G180 or 32/36 anyone has mentioned. I prefer the electric choke model. Just go to a wrecker and get one off a Ford and whatever else. You can make a throttle cable bracket and later mess with the jets. You know how to check the throttle shafts, which is probably the most important thing to check when buying a used carb. Also look for screwdriver marks on the screws, you don't want one that's been taken apart many times.