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- | #REDIRECT [[Rear_Disc_Brakes#Disc_Over_Drum]] | + | "Disc Over Drum" -- easy conversion for H165 or H190 diffs! Fits over 14" wheels. Rotor approximately 280mm. |
+ | |||
+ | = Overview = | ||
+ | Find an Australia-built [[Bluebird]] with rear discs and swap the brakes over to the H165. | ||
+ | <br>[http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=2320 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/2320.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=3294 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/3294.jpg] [http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=16590 http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/16590.jpg] | ||
+ | |||
+ | They use the drum shoes as the emergency/parking brake. | ||
+ | <br>[http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac66/1200rallycar/IMAG0470.jpg http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac66/1200rallycar/th_IMAG0470.jpg] [http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac66/1200rallycar/IMAG0471.jpg http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/ac66/1200rallycar/th_IMAG0471.jpg] | ||
+ | |||
+ | Remove the wheel bearing with a press so that you can change the backing plate, then install a new wheel bearing. | ||
+ | |||
+ | = Sources = | ||
+ | These come from Australia-built Bluebirds with live axle (non-IRS). | ||
+ | |||
+ | Version 1 of these rear disk brakes were used on all Nissan [[910]] Bluebird Series 1 TRX sedan & LX sedan except for the first few weeks of LX production. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Version 2 of these brakes were used on all 910 Bluebird Series 2 & Bluebird Series 3 TRX sedans & LX models [sedans & wagons]. | ||
+ | |||
+ | = Wreckers = | ||
+ | Going price is about $100 in 2010. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Take a veneer caliper to the wreckers and check that you have at least 10mm of meat on the disc. 9.5mm is still legal but new discs are expensive ($160 AU each side) | ||
+ | |||
+ | Buy the whole axle, diff and all. It will probably cost less than buying the bits. | ||
+ | |||
+ | = Prep = | ||
+ | Remove calipers, put them aside for a cleanup or a recondition as you see fit | ||
+ | |||
+ | Remove discs, give them a quick cleanup | ||
+ | |||
+ | Remove the dust shields (splash plates) – large thin plates that protect the discs from mud, etc. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Take photos to document which way the shoes and the retaining springs go (they will only go one way but at least you know for sure). | ||
+ | |||
+ | Dismantle the brake shoes, inspect and replace shoes if required | ||
+ | |||
+ | Remove the handbrake cable by taking out the pins at the ends | ||
+ | |||
+ | == Axle Removal == | ||
+ | The two axles right and left, don’t mix up the backing plates – they only go one way | ||
+ | |||
+ | Remove the individual axles from the main body. Remove the four bolts that are at the end of the main body into the axle/brake area. These will have nylock nuts on the ends | ||
+ | |||
+ | Pull out the axle. This should come out easily but you may have to jiggle the diff where it connects to the tail shaft to loosen the spline. If all else fails the use a slide hammer and connect it to the axle where the wheel lugs | ||
+ | |||
+ | == Remove Drum Plates == | ||
+ | Remove the axle bearings from the Bluebird axles, so the the backing plate/caliper adapters will come off the axles. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Use the normal process, chisel off the bearing retainer and bearing (or using a long bearing puller). | ||
+ | |||
+ | CAUTION: Don’t use the backing plate for any leverage – they are cast and can break | ||
+ | |||
+ | After the collar and bearing are removed there will also be a thin washer to remove, it should just slide off and then the backing plate is right to come off | ||
+ | |||
+ | Make sure you mark right from left and keep the following bits from the bluebird diff | ||
+ | |||
+ | = Parts Check = | ||
+ | Backing plates | ||
+ | |||
+ | Brake assemblies, both handbrake assemblies and disc brake assemblies. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Flexible brake lines for the disc calipers | ||
+ | |||
+ | All bolts, nuts, washers, clips – mostly so you have spares | ||
+ | |||
+ | IMPORTANT – keep the fittings that hook up the fixed brake lines to the flexible lines. The 1200 does not have these on the diff and you will need to weld them onto the 1200 diff | ||
+ | |||
+ | Also keep or sell the Bluebird diff centre- it will be a H165 and can be used in a 1200 ute diff. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Give everything a nice cleanup | ||
+ | |||
+ | = 1200 Disassembly = | ||
+ | You can leave the 1200 diff in the vehicle or [[Rear Axle#Rear Axle Removal|remove]] it. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Remove the individual axles from the main body/housing. See [[Rear Axle#Axle Shaft Removal|Axle Shaft Removal]]. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | = 1200 Assembly = | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | [[Category:Brake System]] |
Revision as of 23:17, 4 November 2012
"Disc Over Drum" -- easy conversion for H165 or H190 diffs! Fits over 14" wheels. Rotor approximately 280mm.
Contents |
Overview
Find an Australia-built Bluebird with rear discs and swap the brakes over to the H165.
They use the drum shoes as the emergency/parking brake.
Remove the wheel bearing with a press so that you can change the backing plate, then install a new wheel bearing.
Sources
These come from Australia-built Bluebirds with live axle (non-IRS).
Version 1 of these rear disk brakes were used on all Nissan 910 Bluebird Series 1 TRX sedan & LX sedan except for the first few weeks of LX production.
Version 2 of these brakes were used on all 910 Bluebird Series 2 & Bluebird Series 3 TRX sedans & LX models [sedans & wagons].
Wreckers
Going price is about $100 in 2010.
Take a veneer caliper to the wreckers and check that you have at least 10mm of meat on the disc. 9.5mm is still legal but new discs are expensive ($160 AU each side)
Buy the whole axle, diff and all. It will probably cost less than buying the bits.
Prep
Remove calipers, put them aside for a cleanup or a recondition as you see fit
Remove discs, give them a quick cleanup
Remove the dust shields (splash plates) – large thin plates that protect the discs from mud, etc.
Take photos to document which way the shoes and the retaining springs go (they will only go one way but at least you know for sure).
Dismantle the brake shoes, inspect and replace shoes if required
Remove the handbrake cable by taking out the pins at the ends
Axle Removal
The two axles right and left, don’t mix up the backing plates – they only go one way
Remove the individual axles from the main body. Remove the four bolts that are at the end of the main body into the axle/brake area. These will have nylock nuts on the ends
Pull out the axle. This should come out easily but you may have to jiggle the diff where it connects to the tail shaft to loosen the spline. If all else fails the use a slide hammer and connect it to the axle where the wheel lugs
Remove Drum Plates
Remove the axle bearings from the Bluebird axles, so the the backing plate/caliper adapters will come off the axles.
Use the normal process, chisel off the bearing retainer and bearing (or using a long bearing puller).
CAUTION: Don’t use the backing plate for any leverage – they are cast and can break
After the collar and bearing are removed there will also be a thin washer to remove, it should just slide off and then the backing plate is right to come off
Make sure you mark right from left and keep the following bits from the bluebird diff
Parts Check
Backing plates
Brake assemblies, both handbrake assemblies and disc brake assemblies.
Flexible brake lines for the disc calipers
All bolts, nuts, washers, clips – mostly so you have spares
IMPORTANT – keep the fittings that hook up the fixed brake lines to the flexible lines. The 1200 does not have these on the diff and you will need to weld them onto the 1200 diff
Also keep or sell the Bluebird diff centre- it will be a H165 and can be used in a 1200 ute diff.
Give everything a nice cleanup
1200 Disassembly
You can leave the 1200 diff in the vehicle or remove it.
Remove the individual axles from the main body/housing. See Axle Shaft Removal.