Main Menu

Home News Forum Photo Album Tech Wiki Downloads Web Links Polls FAQ Members Map

Fast Search

Slow Search

Google Ad

Revision as of 23:24, 7 February 2013

Ignition Coil Wiring The Datsun 1200 ignition switch is also known as an "Ignition Starter Switch". For STD models, it is integrated into the Key lock switch. For Super DX and higher grades, it bolts to the back of the key cylinder.

1 Standard Type
2 Steering Lock Type
3 Common Problems
- 3.1 Start Problems
- 3.2 Starts but does not Run
4 Testing

Standard Type

STD 1200s and DX built for Japan market have a dash-mounted switch (instead of steering column-mounted). The lock & ignition switch are integrated with only two or three spade terminals on the switch.

SWITCH-IGNITION
25150-G1001 for NON-STEERING LOCK -7803
48750-E4700 for NON-STEERING LOCK 7804- 
* Small type, same as 1980-1982 USA 720

Also see: Keys

Steering Lock Type

GL and GX models, newer Sunny Truck and all USA 1200s use a Steering Lock type.

Early JDM with 'Garage' position and single-sided key

The ignition switch bolts to the back of the key cylinder. A rectangular wire connector from the dash harness attaches to it. It is not strictly part of the Key lock & barrel, but bolts to it.

Fitment

USA Lock Comparison - No ACC position for 1971. It also uses a different ignition switch.

Part Numbers

Also see Key Lock Cylinder

48750-H1900 for STEERING LOCK -7803

1971 - unknown part numbers
1972-1973
- ACDelco E1406 $38 O'Reillys
- Beck/Arnley 2011174 Rockauto $24

Interchange

Later 1200 switches interchange with Datsun B310 and several other Datsun models, but not B210.

Ignition Switch Comparison

B110 Small size ~28mm diameter
B110 Large size ~34mm diameter

TIP: On the back of the switch, each contact is marked ('S', 'IG', etc. molded into the plastic). Double-check before replacing to ensure they are the same.

The larger-diameter switch has two mounting lugs and is used with Keylocks that have an ACC position. 1972 and 1973 1200s use this.

The small-diameter switch has one bolting lug. And has only four spade terminals. It was used on 1971 B110 (and any without ACC position).

Beck/Arnley 2011174 Fits:

Subaru
- 1982-1987 Brat
- 1986-1987 GL
- 1980-1984 DL
- 1980 GLF
- 1980 GL
- 1980-1987 Standard
Datsun
- 1968-1973 510
- 1970-1978 240Z, 260Z, 280Z
- 1979-1983 280ZX
- 1972-1973 1200 (B110)
- 1979-1982 210 (B310)
- 1978-1981 510 (A10)
- 1977-1981 810 (Bluebird)
- 1982-1983 Maxima (910 Bluebird)
- 1979-1982 310 (N10)
- 1977-1983 200SX (S10)

ACDelco E1406 ignition switch also fits:

Same as Beck/Arnley 2011174 except B110 and except Subaru
1979 Datsun 620
1980-1982 Datsun 720

B210

B210 ignition switch does not interchange with B110 per the parts catalogs.

Top: early B110. Bottom: B210
It looks like it would plug into the Small B110 harness, but is wired differently. Beware!

AIRTEX 1S6174
ACDelco E1478A Rockauto
- Datsun
  - 1974-1978 B210
  - 1973-1976 610
  - 1975-1977 710
  - 1976-1978 F10
- Subaru
  - 1985-1989 DL, GL
  - 1985-1987 GL-10
  - 1987 Standard

Wiring

The 1971 switch has four spade terminals. The 1972 and newer adds the "Accessory" position and so has five spade terminals.

The two wires at the front of the Lock Cylinder are for the Warning Buzzer system.

North American Wiring

W	B (Battery)
BW	IG (ignition/Run)
BW (LW for B210)	ACC (Accessory) Not present on 1971 switch
BY (YB for B210)	S (start)
BR	R (resistor)

The switch in the picture with the wires has differently colored wires (WR, L, BL, BW, BY). From these colors and position, I think it is the same wiring as the B310 switch, just different colors.

ACC on the Ignition Switch feeds only the Radio and the Rear Defroster.

Switch

Switch internal connections

Off	no connections
Accessory	Battery (hot) to ACC
Run	Battery (hot) to ACC + IG
Start	Battery (hot) to IG + Resistor + Start\*

\*Starting with 1974 automatic models and all newer, ACC is also hot while in the Start position. Where do the wires go on a stock B110?

switch terminal	Connects to ...
IG (ignition/run)	This connects to two things: Directly to Ballast Resistor (non-coil side). This is spelled "Resister" in some Nissan publications. If equipped with optional factory tachometer, this circuit goes through tachometer To IG circuit of fuse box
S (start)	the solenoid on the starter On automatic cars*, this goes through the "Nuetral Switch".
B (battery/hot)	battery + terminal, through the fusible link Fuse box "B" side Alternator "A" large output wire Voltage regulator "A" terminal
R (resistor)	Coil + terminal Ballast resistor (coil side)
ACC (accessory)	Radio (through inline fuse) Since 1971 didn't get ACC position, 1971 radios connect to fuse box L wire (always hot) Optional heated rear window glass Note that this circuit does NOT go to the fuse box, as does Bat and IG

\*Automatics became available in 1973 in North America.

Common Problems

Start Problems

Ever had the "sometime it doesn't operate the Starter until I turn the key back and forth a few times" problem?

This occurs because the relatively high current loads of the starter solenoid tend to burn the ignition switch Start contacts after some years. This only gets worse. You might think you could prevent this problem by using a relay. The S wire could go to to a relay, and the relay could go from the Main Fuse to the starter. The problem is if the relay sticks, you won't be able to turn it off with the key. To prevent this, you could use two relays, with the main power fed through a relay connected to the IG terminal of the switch. Then if the starter relay sticks, you could turn key to ACC or OFF to stop it.

It is easiest just to replace the switch.

Starts but does not Run

"It will crank and catch fire when key turned to Start, but dies as soon as I release the key to the ON position"

The coil is getting Start current, but not Run current. Causes may include:

Ballast Resistor is burned open. It is only use to Run, but not to Start
Wiring is loose or bad on ballast resistor
Ignition Switch is bad. START position works, but ON does not

Testing

You can test the ignition switch with an ohmmter, which is the most direct way. A test light will work too but needs a voltage feed.

Pull the wiring connector off the back of the ignition switch
Unscrew the ignition switch from bracket (early/STD 1200s) or rear of the key lock cylinder (Steering Lock 1200s)
Check ohms between S and B terminals. Should be infinite ohms (no reading)

Turn switch with screwdriver to Start and hold it there. Ohms between S and B should be 0 ohms. If it does not test out correctly, get another ignition switch.

Retrieved from "http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Ignition_Switch"

Ignition Switch