Revision as of 10:41, 26 July 2016 ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->Hitachi DCx series) <- Previous diff |
Current revision ddgonzal (Talk | contribs) (->Take the Top Off) |
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Note that the top gasket is not a critical piece. On downdraft, there is only one vacuum passage. The rest of the top gasket is mostly there to seal the carb from dirt, and to prevent vapors from escaping (air pollution). | Note that the top gasket is not a critical piece. On downdraft, there is only one vacuum passage. The rest of the top gasket is mostly there to seal the carb from dirt, and to prevent vapors from escaping (air pollution). | ||
- | The carburetor will run fine with a partially torn top gasket as long as it seals around the center hole (for downdraft type). | + | The carburetor will run fine with a partially torn top gasket as long as it seals around the center hole (for downdraft type). Tears in the gasket along the outside edge are not critical and won't cause poor running. |
- | A new gasket comes with a carburetor repair kit. | + | A new gasket comes with a carburetor repair kit, but it is rarely needed. As long it doesn't tear around the center hole it can be reused. |
+ | <br>{{UploadPost|174_5a1a6a0540560.jpg|486811}} | ||
== Hitachi DCx series == | == Hitachi DCx series == | ||
- | The hardest part is disconnecting the throttle pump linkage on the outside of the carb. This is the long lever along the top of the carb and a connecting rod that connect the throttle to the pump. There are also small clips that hold the levers. | + | The hardest part is disconnecting the throttle pump linkage on the outside of the carb. This is the long lever along the top of the carb and a connecting rod that connect the throttle to the pump. |
{{Quote|text=Be careful and don't lose these small parts}} | {{Quote|text=Be careful and don't lose these small parts}} | ||
- | # remove choke linkage cotter pin | + | # A tricky part is disconnecting the throttle pump linkage on the outside of the carb. This is the long lever along the top of the carb with a rod that connect the throttle to the pump. Remove pump lever screw. Note how the spring goes |
- | #: A difficult part is disconnecting the throttle pump linkage on the outside of the carb. This is the long lever along the top of the carb and rods that connect the throttle to the pump. There are also small E-clips that hold the levers. | + | |
- | # remove pump lever bolt. Note how the spring goes | + | |
#: Be carefull not to drop the flat washer and lock washer | #: Be carefull not to drop the flat washer and lock washer | ||
- | #: {{Photo|20030830%20103148%20DSC01777%20U10.jpg}} | + | #: {{Photo|20030830-DSC01777.jpg}} |
- | # remove and plug Fuel Line | + | # Auto-choke models: remove choke linkage cotter pin |
+ | #: Remove the tiny cotter-pin, then grab the thin washer with needle-nose pliers (so it doesn't fall out of sight) and finally pry the rod through the lever hole | ||
+ | #: {{Photo|20060122-DSC00896.jpg}} | ||
+ | #: | ||
+ | #: {{Photo|20060122-DSC00896-.jpg}} | ||
+ | # remove and plug Fuel Line. A clean bolt can be used and jammed in the end of the hose | ||
+ | #: {{Photo|20060122-DSC00898.jpg}} | ||
# auto choke models: remove choke pull-off hose | # auto choke models: remove choke pull-off hose | ||
#: {{Album|2211}} | #: {{Album|2211}} | ||
- | # auto choke models: remove the two large screw under the choke housing | + | # Throttle Opener models: remove the two large screw under the choke housing |
- | #: This is the hardest part of the whole job | + | #: This is the hardest part of the whole job, because they are out of sight, but a screwdriver will turn them right out |
+ | #: Here's how it looks after the top has been removed: | ||
+ | #: {{Photo|20060122-DSC00906.jpg}} | ||
# if equipped, disconnect auto choke wires and idle-cut solenoid wires | # if equipped, disconnect auto choke wires and idle-cut solenoid wires | ||
# remove the top screws | # remove the top screws | ||
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For [[Hitachi Twin Carb]], the float bowl top is held on by four screws. | For [[Hitachi Twin Carb]], the float bowl top is held on by four screws. | ||
- | [http://datsun1200.com/uploads/photos/23425.jpg http://datsun1200.com/uploads/thumbs/23425.jpg] | + | {{Album|23425}} |
# remove fuel inlet line | # remove fuel inlet line | ||
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Put the top back on in reversal of the steps above. | Put the top back on in reversal of the steps above. | ||
- | CAUTION: Tighten the bolts only enough to compress | + | {{Quote|text=CAUTION: Tighten the bolts only enough to compress the lock washers, no more.}} |
- | the lock washers, no more. | + | |
- | Lay the gasket on the carburetor body. Carefully push the Accelerator Pump though the gasket, also guide the Float pin past the edges of the gasket. | + | TIP: Lay the gasket on the carburetor body. Carefully push the Accelerator Pump though the gasket, also guide the Float pin past the edges of the gasket. Then the top will fit down onto the carburetor body. |
[[Category:Fuel System]] | [[Category:Fuel System]] | ||
- | [[Category:Hitachi 306 Carburetor]] | + | [[Category:Hitachi 306 Carburetor]]{{End}} |
Current revision
Removing the top of the carburetor is relatively easy, and is the key to setting the float level. Almost all repairs can be done by partially disassembling the carburetor, meaning take the top off. Be sure to use a large enough screwdrive to avoid damaging the screws. Do not overtighten.
Contents |
Take the Top Off
Note that the top gasket is not a critical piece. On downdraft, there is only one vacuum passage. The rest of the top gasket is mostly there to seal the carb from dirt, and to prevent vapors from escaping (air pollution).
The carburetor will run fine with a partially torn top gasket as long as it seals around the center hole (for downdraft type). Tears in the gasket along the outside edge are not critical and won't cause poor running.
A new gasket comes with a carburetor repair kit, but it is rarely needed. As long it doesn't tear around the center hole it can be reused.
Hitachi DCx series
The hardest part is disconnecting the throttle pump linkage on the outside of the carb. This is the long lever along the top of the carb and a connecting rod that connect the throttle to the pump.
Be careful and don't lose these small parts
- A tricky part is disconnecting the throttle pump linkage on the outside of the carb. This is the long lever along the top of the carb with a rod that connect the throttle to the pump. Remove pump lever screw. Note how the spring goes
- Be carefull not to drop the flat washer and lock washer
- Auto-choke models: remove choke linkage cotter pin
- Remove the tiny cotter-pin, then grab the thin washer with needle-nose pliers (so it doesn't fall out of sight) and finally pry the rod through the lever hole
- remove and plug Fuel Line. A clean bolt can be used and jammed in the end of the hose
- auto choke models: remove choke pull-off hose
- Throttle Opener models: remove the two large screw under the choke housing
- This is the hardest part of the whole job, because they are out of sight, but a screwdriver will turn them right out
- Here's how it looks after the top has been removed:
- if equipped, disconnect auto choke wires and idle-cut solenoid wires
- remove the top screws
- carefully lift the top straight up a small amount. Check the gasket.
- If needed, pry the gasket from either the top or the body, so it stays in one piece
- remove top completely. The float comes out with the top, so carefully guide it past the edges of the gasket
Hitachi Twin Carb
For Hitachi Twin Carb, the float bowl top is held on by four screws.
- remove fuel inlet line
- remove fuel overflow line (vent line on newer versions)
- remove the four screws
- carefully lift the top up a small amount. Check the gasket.
- If needed, pry the gasket from either the top or the body, so it stays in one piece
- remove top completely. The float stays in the bowl
Re-assembly
Put the top back on in reversal of the steps above.
CAUTION: Tighten the bolts only enough to compress the lock washers, no more.
TIP: Lay the gasket on the carburetor body. Carefully push the Accelerator Pump though the gasket, also guide the Float pin past the edges of the gasket. Then the top will fit down onto the carburetor body.