Main Menu

Home News Forum Photo Album Tech Wiki Downloads Web Links Polls FAQ Members Map

Fast Search

Slow Search

Google Ad

Revision as of 06:20, 25 July 2011

1 A-series Nissan Engines
2 Swap Factors
3 Engine Mounts
- 3.1 Late Engine onto Early Crossmember
4 Discussions and Details
5 HB210
6 Questions

A-series Nissan Engines

The A14 and A15 engines are "tall deck" engines, and are 3/4 inch higher than A12s. However, they fit in the 1200 with only minor changes. This also applies to the 1974 A13 engine. The A14 and A15 are by far the most popular swapping candidates since the bigger displacement of the A14 and A15 means both more power (peak HP) and more low-speed power (torque) than the A12, A13 or A12A. Remember: "There is no replacement for displacement" (aka "theres no substitute for cubic inches").

Swap Factors

These factors are different when swapping:

1967-1973 motor mounts vs 1974-up mounts
increased deck height raises exhaust pipe
and 3-bolt vs 2-bolt exhaust flange
A14 & A15 call for stronger transmission
Call for stronger differential than 1967-1974 H145 type

A14 GX Engine

A15 Engine deck

A15 Engine (left side)

Like all 1974-up engines. the A14/A15 have the motor mount bosses in a different place compared to the 1971-1973 A12 engines. So the engine mounts are a bit different. This photos illustrates the difference:

Stock left-side mount in Datsun 1200, but Newer A12 engine. A better way is to move the brackets on the engine, to get the engine lower. You could also 1) use the 1974-up ute crossmember or 2) modify the crossmember.

Engine Mounts

The easiest thing to do is use a matching set:

Or the complete set of early items if swapping an early engine into a later 1200. For more details and comparison photos, see Engine Mounts.

Early vs Late Engine crossmembers

Late Engine onto Early Crossmember

When fitting a 1974-or-newer engine into an orginal Datsun 1200, and using the original crossmber, modifications to the engine mount brackets are needed.

There is no need modify the crossmember, although that can be done. It is easy to modify the brackets.

Left Side Mount Location

Left Side (manifold side) of A-series engine

Engine mount bolt bosses were moved back 35mm (1-3/8") on the late blocks
Front rubber mount fitted with roll stopper, to prevent excessive engine roll
Rear rubber mount (transmission mount) fitted with roll stopper, which helps prevent engine from moving forward in an accident

Engine mount boss is 35mm farther back on newer blocks

~2mm higher from bottom of block

Remove this Late LH bracket:

And obtain another RH bracket, and then fit it to the LH side:

The mounts are also 35mm (1-3/8") further back. So drill two holes in a flat plate and mount it like this:

Lastly, since the mount is now up too high, slot the bolt holes for the engine bracket, and slide the mount up on the block then tighten. This will lower the engine. There are three different RH mounts, it is unknown which is best to use. Some allow the engine to sit higher or lower than the others.

Three different RH mounts:

154 mm: Early block front face to center of mount

189 mm: Revised block front face to center of mount

Alternatively, you can put the mount on the last accessory bosses (as in the photo of the Yellow A14 block), which is 26mm (1") farther forward. To do this, you will need to redrill the lower hole on the engine mount bracket, 8mm over. And you will still need to slot the mounts and use a flat plate. Nothing gained, but it takes a little more work this way.

Right Side Mount

Right side (spark-plug/oil pump/starter side) engine mount bracket is practically the same Late vs Early.

Two types of right-side brackets:

The only thing you might need to do is Measure engine installed angle and if you need to lower it a little bit, slot the bracket bolt holes (where it bolts to the engine) slow you can mount it slightly higher.

Custom Brackets

For the cleanest look, you may with to cut and re-weld the brackets so they fit just so. You can fabricate the LH bracket to have the 30cm offset and both brackets to be a bit lower.

Discussions and Details

The simplest way to fit the motor mounts is a flat plate:

However, this makes the engine sit about an inch too high. You could slot the bolt holes in the engine bracket so it will slide slightly to level the engine.

cheater_5 wrote up a detailed conversion here: Cheaters a15 into 1200 conversion
An A14 installation Mildman undertook has been quite significantly detailed at the following web link: Mildman's A14 Installation
There is also a technical article at the datsun1200.com site that discusses this installation too: Datsun1200.com Tech Section

HB210

B210 with A14 engine pan changed to mid-sump (USA B210 only). So if swapping this engine in, swap the pan and pickup tube with the newer B310 A14 unit (or, perhaps the A12 pan will fit).

Questions

What's Better? A14 or A15?
But isn't the A15 stroke to long to rev high?
Isn't the rods too short in the A14?

For answers, see: Engine Swaps, section "A-series Nissan Engines"

Retrieved from "http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=A-series_Engine_Swaps"

A-series Engine Swaps