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| = Common Problems = | = Common Problems = | ||
| - | Ever had the "<b>sometime it doesn't start until I turn the key back and forth a few times</b>" problem? | + | == Start Problems == |
| + | Ever had the "<b>sometime it doesn't operate the Starter until I turn the key back and forth a few times</b>" problem? | ||
| This occurs because the relatively high current loads of the starter solenoid tend to burn the ignition switch Start contacts after some years. This only gets worse. You might think you could prevent this problem by using a relay. The S wire could go to to a relay, and the relay could go from the Main Fuse to the starter. The problem is if the relay sticks, you won't be able to turn it off with the key. To prevent this, you could use two relays, with the main power fed through a relay connected to the IG terminal of the switch. Then if the starter relay sticks, you could turn key to ACC or OFF to stop it. | This occurs because the relatively high current loads of the starter solenoid tend to burn the ignition switch Start contacts after some years. This only gets worse. You might think you could prevent this problem by using a relay. The S wire could go to to a relay, and the relay could go from the Main Fuse to the starter. The problem is if the relay sticks, you won't be able to turn it off with the key. To prevent this, you could use two relays, with the main power fed through a relay connected to the IG terminal of the switch. Then if the starter relay sticks, you could turn key to ACC or OFF to stop it. | ||
| It is easiest just to replace the switch. | It is easiest just to replace the switch. | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Starts but does not Run == | ||
| + | "It will crank and catch fire when key turned to Start, but dies as soon as I release the key to the ON position" | ||
| + | |||
| + | The coil is getting Start current, but not Run current. Causes may include: | ||
| + | * [[Ballast Resistor]] is burned open. It is only use to Run, but not to Start | ||
| + | * Wiring is loose or bad on ballast resistor | ||
| + | * Ignition Switch is bad. START position works, but ON does not | ||
| [[Category:Body Electrical System]] | [[Category:Body Electrical System]] | ||
Revision as of 22:42, 3 May 2012
The Datsun 1200 ignition switch is also known as an "Ignition Starter Switch". For Japan STD and DX models, it is integrated into the Key lock switch. For USA, it bolts to the back of the key cylinder.
Contents |
Japan
STD and DX 1200s built for Japan market have a dash-mounted switch (instead of steering column-mounted). The lock & ignition switch are integrated with only two or three spade terminals on the switch.
See Keys
GL and GX models and newer Sunny Truck use same/similar to USA ignition switch.
North America
For USA, the ignition switch bolts to the back of the key cylinder. A rectangular wire connector from the dash harness attaches to it. It is not strictly part of the Key lock & barrel, but bolts to it.
Fitment
Lock Comparison - No ACC position for 1971, which uses a different ignition switch.
Part Numbers
Also see Key Lock Cylinder
- 1971 - unknown part numbers
- 1972-1973
- ACDelco E1406 $38 O'Reillys
- Beck/Arnley 2011174 Rockauto $24
Interchange
Later 1200 switches interchange with Datsun B310 and several other Datsun models, but not B210.
Ignition Switch Comparison
- B110 Small size ~28mm diameter
- B110 Large size ~34mm diameter
TIP: On the back of the switch, each contact is marked ('S', 'IG', etc. molded into the plastic). Double-check before replacing to ensure they are the same.
The larger-diameter switch has two mounting lugs and is used with Keylocks that have an ACC position. 1972 and 1973 1200s use this.
The small-diameter switch has one bolting lug. And has only four spade terminals. It was used on 1971 B110 (and any without ACC position).
Beck/Arnley 2011174 Fits:
- Subaru
- 1982-1987 Brat
- 1986-1987 GL
- 1980-1984 DL
- 1980 GLF
- 1980 GL
- 1980-1987 Standard
- Datsun
- 1968-1973 510
- 1970-1978 240Z, 260Z, 280Z
- 1979-1983 280ZX
- 1972-1973 1200 (B110)
- 1979-1982 210 (B310)
- 1978-1981 510 (A10)
- 1977-1981 810 (Bluebird)
- 1982-1983 Maxima (910 Bluebird)
- 1979-1982 310 (N10)
- 1977-1983 200SX (S10)
ACDelco E1406 ignition switch also fits:
- Same as Beck/Arnley 2011174 except B110 and except Subaru
- 1979 Datsun 620
- 1980-1982 Datsun 720
B210
B210 ignition switch does not interchange with B110 per the parts catalogs.
Top: early B110. Bottom: B210
It looks like it would plug into the Small B110 harness, but is wired differently. Beware!
- AIRTEX 1S6174
- ACDelco E1478A Rockauto
- Datsun
- 1974-1978 B210
- 1973-1976 610
- 1975-1977 710
- 1976-1978 F10
- Subaru
- 1985-1989 DL, GL
- 1985-1987 GL-10
- 1987 Standard
- Datsun
Wiring
The 1971 switch has four spade terminals. The 1972 and newer adds the "Accessory" position and so has five spade terminals.
The two wires at the front of the Lock Cylinder are for the Warning Buzzer system.
| W | B (Battery) |
| BW | IG (ignition/Run) |
| BW (LW for B210) | ACC (Accessory)
Not present on 1971 switch |
| BY (YB for B210) | S (start) |
| BR | R (resistor) |
The switch in the picture with the wires has differently colored wires (WR, L, BL, BW, BY). From these colors and position, I think it is the same wiring as the B310 switch, just different colors.
ACC on the Ignition Switch feeds only the Radio and the Rear Defroster.
Switch
Switch internal connections| Off | no connections |
| Accessory | Battery (hot) to ACC |
| Run | Battery (hot) to ACC + IG |
| Start | Battery (hot) to IG + Resistor + Start\* |
| switch terminal | Connects to ... |
| IG (ignition/run) | This connects to two things:
|
| S (start) |
On automatic cars*, this goes through the "Nuetral Switch". |
| B (battery/hot) |
|
| R (resistor) |
|
| ACC (accessory) |
|
Common Problems
Start Problems
Ever had the "sometime it doesn't operate the Starter until I turn the key back and forth a few times" problem?
This occurs because the relatively high current loads of the starter solenoid tend to burn the ignition switch Start contacts after some years. This only gets worse. You might think you could prevent this problem by using a relay. The S wire could go to to a relay, and the relay could go from the Main Fuse to the starter. The problem is if the relay sticks, you won't be able to turn it off with the key. To prevent this, you could use two relays, with the main power fed through a relay connected to the IG terminal of the switch. Then if the starter relay sticks, you could turn key to ACC or OFF to stop it.
It is easiest just to replace the switch.
Starts but does not Run
"It will crank and catch fire when key turned to Start, but dies as soon as I release the key to the ON position"
The coil is getting Start current, but not Run current. Causes may include:
- Ballast Resistor is burned open. It is only use to Run, but not to Start
- Wiring is loose or bad on ballast resistor
- Ignition Switch is bad. START position works, but ON does not