Revision as of 03:56, 2 August 2009

The Datsun 1200 ignition switch bolts to the back of the key cylinder. There is a rectangular wire connector attached to it. It is not strictly part of the Key lock & barrel, but attaches to it. 1971 ignition switch differs from 1972-up switches.

1 Part Numbers
2 Interchange
3 Wiring
- 3.1 Switch
- 3.2 Common Problems

Part Numbers

1972-1973

ACDelco E1406

Interchange

Ignition Switch Comparison

B310 has a larger-diameter switch with two mounting lugs. B110 is smaller with one mounting lug. I believe the middle one (the one with the wiring harness) is a B210 switch, and looks like it would plug into the B110 harness, but is wired differently. Beware! I think this is the B210 Auto harness, where the BY wire goes through the auto-trans shifter inhibit switch (can only start car when in Nuetral or Park).

Lock Comparison - No ACC position for 1971, there is corresponding change to the igntion switch.
(the two wires at the front of the cylinder are for the Warning Buzzer system)

Datsun 1200 1972-1973 ignition switch also fits:

1970-1973 DATSUN 240Z
1971 DATSUN 510

Wiring

The 1971 switch has four spade terminals. The 1972 and newer adds the "Accessory" position and so has five spade terminals.

TIP: On the back of the switch, each contact is marked ('S', 'IG', etc.). Double-check before replacing to ensure they are the same.

North American Wiring

W	B (Battery)
BW or	IG (ignition/Run)
BW (LW for B210)	ACC (Accessory) 1971 switches didn't have ACC position
BY (YB for B210)	S (start)
BR	R (resistor)

The switch in the picture with the wires has differently colored wires (WR, L, BL, BW, BY). From these colors and position, I think it is the same wiring as the B310 switch, just different colors.

Switch

Switch internal connections

Off	no connections
Accessory	Battery (hot) to ACC
Run	Battery (hot) to ACC + IG
Start	Battery (hot) to IG + Resistor + Start\*

\*Starting with 1974 automatic models and all newer, ACC is also hot while in the Start position.

Where do the wires go on a stock B110?

</table> \*Automatics became available in 1973 in North America.

Common Problems

Ever had the "sometime it doesn't start until I turn the key back and forth a few times" problem? This occurs because the relatively high current loads of the starter solenoid tend to burn the ignition switch Start contacts after some years. This only gets worse. You might think you could prevent this problem by using a relay. The S wire could go to to a relay, and the relay could go from the Main Fuse to the starter. The problem is if the relay sticks, you won't be able to turn it off with the key. To prevent this, you could use two relays, with the main power fed through a relay connected to the IG terminal of the switch. Then if the starter relay sticks, you could turn key to ACC or OFF to stop it.

It is easiest just to replace the switch.

switch terminal	Connects to ...
IG (ignition/run)	This connects to two things: Directly to Ballast Resistor (non-coil side). This is spelled "Resister" in some Nissan publications. If equipped with optional factory tachometer, this circuit goes through tachometer <li>To IG circuit of fuse box</ul></td></tr>
S (start)	<li>the solenoid on the starter On automatic cars*, this goes through the "Nuetral Switch".
B (battery/hot)	<li>battery + terminal, through the fusible link <li>Fuse box "B" side <li>Alternator "A" large output wire <li>Voltage regulator "A" terminal
R (resistor)	<li>Coil + terminal <li>Ballast resistor (coil side)
ACC (accessory)	<li>Radio (through inline fuse) Since 1971 didn't get ACC position, 1971 radios connect to fuse box L wire (always hot) <li>Optional heated rear window glass <li>Note that this circuit does NOT go to the fuse box, as does Bat and IG

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Ignition Switch