![[Datsun 1200 encyclopedia]](/wiki/upload/wiki.png)
The Datsun 1200 ignition switch is also known as an "Ignition Starter Switch". For Japan, it is integrated into the Key lock switch. For USA, it bolts to the back of the key cylinder.
Contents |
Japan
1200s built for Japan market have a dash-mounted switch (instead of steering column-mounted). The lock & ignition switch are integrated with only two or three spade terminals on the switch.
See Keys
North America
For USA, the ignition switch bolts to the back of the key cylinder. A a rectangular wire connector from the dash harness attaches to it. It is not strictly part of the Key lock & barrel, but bolts to it.
Lock Comparison - No ACC position for 1971, there is corresponding change to the igntion switch.
(the two wires at the front of the cylinder are for the Warning Buzzer system)
Replacement switches are of the 1972 type, which can mate to the 1971 4-terminal connector or the 1972 6-terminal connector.
Part Numbers
Also see Key Lock Cylinder
1972-1973
- ACDelco E1406
1971-1973
- Beck/Arnley 2011174 Rockauto $24
Interchange
Ignition Switch Comparison
B310 has a larger-diameter switch with two mounting lugs. 1971 B110 is smaller with one mounting lug. I believe the middle one (the one with the wiring harness) is a B210 switch, and looks like it would plug into the B110 harness, but is wired differently. Beware! I think this is the B210 Auto harness, where the BY wire goes through the auto-trans shifter inhibit switch (can only start car when in Nuetral or Park).
ACDelco E1406 ignition switch also fits:
- 1970-1973 Datsun 240Z
- 1971 Datsun 510
- 1971-1972 Datsun 1200
Beck/Arnley 2011174 Fits:
- Subaru
- 1982-1987 Brat
- 1986-1987 GL
- 1980-1984 DL
- 1980 GLF
- 1980 GL
- 1980-1987 Standard
- Datsun
- 1968-1973 510
- 1970-1978 240Z, 260Z, 280Z
- 1979-1983 280ZX
- 1971-1973 1200 (B110)
- 1979-1982 210 (B310)
- 1978-1981 510 (A10)
- 1977-1981 810 (Bluebird)
- 1982-1983 Maxima (910 Bluebird)
- 1979-1982 310 (N10)
- 1977-1983 200SX (S10)
Wiring
The 1971 switch has four spade terminals. The 1972 and newer adds the "Accessory" position and so has five spade terminals.
TIP: On the back of the switch, each contact is marked ('S', 'IG', etc.). Double-check before replacing to ensure they are the same.
| W | B (Battery) |
| BW or | IG (ignition/Run) |
| BW (LW for B210) | ACC (Accessory)
1971 switches didn't have ACC position |
| BY (YB for B210) | S (start) |
| BR | R (resistor) |
The switch in the picture with the wires has differently colored wires (WR, L, BL, BW, BY). From these colors and position, I think it is the same wiring as the B310 switch, just different colors.
Switch
Switch internal connections| Off | no connections |
| Accessory | Battery (hot) to ACC |
| Run | Battery (hot) to ACC + IG |
| Start | Battery (hot) to IG + Resistor + Start\* |
| switch terminal | Connects to ... |
| IG (ignition/run) | This connects to two things:
|
| S (start) |
On automatic cars*, this goes through the "Nuetral Switch". |
| B (battery/hot) |
|
| R (resistor) |
|
| ACC (accessory) |
|
Common Problems
Ever had the "sometime it doesn't start until I turn the key back and forth a few times" problem?
This occurs because the relatively high current loads of the starter solenoid tend to burn the ignition switch Start contacts after some years. This only gets worse. You might think you could prevent this problem by using a relay. The S wire could go to to a relay, and the relay could go from the Main Fuse to the starter. The problem is if the relay sticks, you won't be able to turn it off with the key. To prevent this, you could use two relays, with the main power fed through a relay connected to the IG terminal of the switch. Then if the starter relay sticks, you could turn key to ACC or OFF to stop it.
It is easiest just to replace the switch.