right. His design even has fans in Japan. Used to be the hot stuff was a greddy manifold, now it's the TT manifold.

1200rc bought this setup from go_the_datto. See Twin Turbo

Yeah I went and picked it up but I didn't know this was the user lol what a popup

In answer to rally-a-coup
there off a diahtsu one litre diesel.
I mainly chose these ones because there cheep. they are only $80 each,
If any one is interested in getting there hands on some email me at robbo_24au@yahoo.com.au

and In answer to slam yes you can get a copper gasket they are around $60, they are not a nissan item, Im not sure if nissan make a comp one.
Another way around the head gasket problem is to "o" ring the block, this is not as complicated as it sounds.
I have found a bloke over this way that has a tool for doing it so if my set up works well I will go and see him and get it done
"o"ringing is only a small groove is machined in where the cylinder wall meets the block deck, and a piece of special wire is fitter into the groove.Baisicly a wire "o" ring at the top of the cylinder.
So the sealing is done by the piece of wire not the gasket

I wonder if this the worlds only TT A12? Is there a limit I wonder, how 'bout a quad turbo? That'd be pretty extreme!

well is it in the engine bay yet if so have you tryed it id love to know how it goes if it go's well i might try a single turbo conversion with a turbo of a NISSAN pulsar G.T.i.R

Yep its in the engine bay and the intercooler piping is just about finished. Now Ive gotta do the oil lines to and from the turbos as soon as that is done Ill take a pic of it and post it.
I got a holly blue and a regulator on the weekend, so I recon it'll be running next weekend, hope so any way.
As soon as my datto is runing I am going to take it to heathcote drags just to see how well it goes, I have allways wanted to run a car at the drags even if it is not as quick as the others I dont care it'll be a heap of fun anyway
The single turbo G.T.i.R turbo would be an interesting set up, I recon there would be a little bit of lag but when it came on boost youd want to be hanging on

cheers robbo

is it a tight fit in the engine bay are you using a diffrent head gasket or have o ringed the block or is it just standard

So far its just standard, I am going to experiment with two head gaskets and then if that dosent work, O ringing with one head gasket.
We'll see what happens.......

For those of you who want to do a fuel injection/turbo setup on the A series engine, I found this place while browsing around the net. They build all custom stuff; fuel injection manifolds, and turbo manifolds/headers depending on what kind of turbo you want to use. Looks like a decent place, and prices aren't insane.

http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/

-Andy

hey go-the-datto where are you for all i know you live in kingdom cum

Hey rally-a-coupe, Im from shepparton in vic
Ive just updated my web page it has the engine in the engine bay and most of the intercooler piping in place. It fits in there nicely.
Check out the page through the web links for go the dattos 1200 and go to turbo 1200
cheers.........

go_the_datto

Tell me, so you have the carburator inside the black box?

Ric

Thats rite race glide the carby is in the box, It makes the throttle linkage interesting to hook up and keep it from leaking but its easy to do. The linkage works through a thread in the back of the box.........

So you can colapse the carburator flutuator with the pressure.

How do you made the throtle and choke linkages and the fuel and vacuum hoses hermetic?

I am very interested in this modification because my B310 has a A12 too. If it works (and i hope so) i think that i will try to do something like that.

Ric

Yep, when the boost gets too high the float in the carby can colapse, but to stop that from happening you can fill the float up with stuff called nitro fill, When this problem comes up I'll tackle it then. I know that I can get away with 10 psi with a standard float.

Throttle , fuel choke and vac lines are not that hard, I'll get a pic of the in next couple of days and post it explaning more.

A nother thing I will do in the next couple of days is price the whole project and see how much it has cost all up. I am guessing about $500 in parts all up( $220 for the fuel pump)

B310 ? which body shape is that, is it like a stanza??
cheers

B310 is a Sunny -- the one after the 120Y (B210) 1979-1981. In the US it is called the "210".

luv the woody in the background mate!!

go_the_datto

I was thinking about filling the float with something too.

10 Psi is something like 0.7 bar, it isn

go_the_datto

more questions, i went to your site and i want to ask if you conect the rocker arms cover ventilation hose to the black box?

What do you do with the PCV hose?

where do you get the oil for the turbos lubrication? you drilled near the oil pump i suppose, it can not be seen clearly on the photos. How are you going to send it back to the engine? Are you going to use a oil radiator?

Ricardo

PS - i posted some photos of my B310 on members/riclage

I'll join in on this one now. I'm doing a similar setup on an A-12, single turbo however. I'm building a box like that too. (By the way, what is your box made of? Also, you do know you need a blowoff valve in there somewhere, don't you?)
Quote:
No no no no no no no no!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That would pressurize the crankcase! Definetely do not connect the breather to the box!
Quote:
I welded in a bung for a standard screw in PCV valve right between the air filter and the turbo inlet.
Quote:
I'm going to "tee" off of the oil pressure sender on the pump and route the oil back in to the fuel pump blockoff plate. You see, I'm mounting the turbo on the distributor side of the A-12 for packaging reasons.

dimlight65

I was a litlle upset with the crankcase beeing pressurized.

So maybe the best thing to do is leave the rocker arms cover breather open to the atmosphere (using a KN breather filter) and so on the PCV hose?

In the Datsun 1000 A10 engine the cover breather is open to the atmosphere with a U type tube.

The PCV valve can be closed?

If you "tee" the circuit you will not lose to much oil pressure in other engine parts?

I am asking all this questions because i am going to buy a car like my own for dismantling, and so I am getting a new engine for modifications.

Ricardo.

Yes, a K&N on the valve cover breather is the way to go. I'm running my PCV to a place where, theoretically, there will be a small amount of vacuum (between the air filter and turbo inlet). The port on the intake manifold that the PCV goes into should be plugged, yes.
I have run an A-14 with just K&N breathers on both the valve cover and the PCV. It started to burn alot of oil soon thereafter but that might have been due to my abuse.
As for oil volume loss to the rest of the engine, I hope I won't use up too much. I figure that using a "tee" under the oil pressure sender will be the same as "teeing" it off somewhere in the block. They are all coming and going through the same passages, I think.
We'll see. Hey, if it blows up, it's only money, right?

dimlight65

yeah you

This weekend I am hopefully going to have it all runing, I have all the parts I need now I just need some time.
What I'll do is take the motor out and when its out I'll get a few pics of the oil returns and in the box to show how I set up the throttle and stuff like that, I hope it helps
I have experimented with a few different boxes and I've found the best one to be this one its made out of 2.5 mm plate, Its a bit of an over kill but last one was made out of 1.6 mm plate and it distorted and was very hard to seal.
My last 1200 turbo had the oil feed line tee'd from the oil pressure sender unit and it worked well. I read that the oil return has to have the most direct path to the sump and it has to enter the sump above the normal oil level that is in the sump(it cant enter the sump at the bottom) You want the oil to flow smothly back to the sump and not to froth up
Yep, I am going to keep the standard ignition system but only because I want to do this all on a budget, I want to see how much power I can get out of it and keep it all affordable. Although I think an electronic ignition would be the go.
Also tonight I welded in the line out for the blow off valve, It is off a silvia
P.S. I couldnt agree more with dimlights answers

Go the datto, I have been concerned for a while about the ignition system on mine. What do you do about advance or retard when under boost? Do things just kind of work themselves out or am I going to need to do some special voodoo with the vacuum advance unit? I had planned to use a "metchbox" electronic distributor from a later car but had no clue as to what to do about the advance and such.
I'm working with a friend to try and build my box out of carbon fiber. Our concern is strength in the corners. Of the box, not the race track, corners that is... never mind. What was I saying? I guess I'm done.
Have a day.

I'm pretty sure some of the A14/A15 US-model distributors have a vacuum retard diaphragham. The "advance" part has two hoses, the normal advance hose and another one behind the diaphragham seam.

What about using a simple boost switch to activate the retard line under a certain amount of boost? Might be a low-buck method.

Where would you source the vacuum once the turbo starts to produce boost? I guess you could use one of those Adv/Ret type units and hook up only the advance side to the intake. When there is vacuum it will advance and when there is pressure it will start to retard.
I just made all that up, but it does sound good.
Angelo

The workaround is to use a couple of one-way vaccuum valves and a vaccuum reservoir like most new cars have.

Seems tricky, but most new cars have them, with turbos cars definitely. Try getting any vaccuum for the brake booster when your turbo is on boost! :)

Chris

I believe that the vacuum advance does not do much any way, it's more an economy thing. I have disconected it b 4 and not found much difference.
What I plan to do is leave the vaccum advance disconected and set the timing at 3000 rpm that way I can set the full advance and I'll not worry where it is at idle
P.S its getting close to running It should be going for its maden voige tomorow fingers crossed!!

I forgot about the vacuum reservoir! Most american cars from the 60s up have a reservoir, generally a round plastic tank the size of a softball with two hose connections. Any car that uses vacuum-controlled heater controls has one.
Quote:
At idle, it doesn't. It's designed to be off at idle (the vacuum advance port on the carb is above the throttle plate).

It also does nothing at full throttle, as there is no vacuum then.

However, at just above idle it advances the spark (a lot -- it'll make the engine run faster). The advance tapers off with increasing throttle. Some engines might run OK without it, but it will help with driveablity and part-throttle horespower as well as fuel economy. Oh, if the vacuum advance is ruptured (fairly common on older vehicles), it will run better with the line plugged.

on racecars some people use fanbelt driven vacuum pumps off small diesel engines to boost the brakes. engines with big cams don't produce much manifold vacuum.

dimlight65

I have been thinking about carbon fiber for doing the box too.
Regarding the box corners, you are right, because that are going to be the more stressed zones. You can try to do the box almost spherical (I am not kiding, just like a natural gas tank) since you will get only membrane stresses in the box and almost no bending will happen. Then you will have the optimized design for the box.

Regarding the advance vacuum control i don't know what to do, but i am going to think about it.
One logical thing to do will be pressurize the other vacuum membrane face with the boost pressure, so you can get a similar relative pressure to the one of the atmospheric engine. I don't know if this can be done.

Ricardo.

I guess a nother way around the vacuum advance problem is to box the vacuum advance diaphram in as well and run boost pressure to it so that it has the same pressure in it as the carby.
I am going to put the last oil line on the datto now and start it up for the first time tonight.Hope it goes

Go_the_datto

I was thinking about it too.

Good luck.

Ricardo

YEAH it runs!!!
but bugger me, I forgot to get a fan belt today so I could'nt drive it. But it sounds good any way. So now i'll have to wait till tomorrow.
P.S. I have found a float out of a later model 1200 (I think) which is made out of plastic so it will handle a bit more boost before it colapses

Congratulations

When are you going to post some pictures for us to see?

Ricardo

Tomorow I'll get a few shots and post them
All going to plan, not this weekend but next one I'll take it to the heathcote park drags and see how it goes

I am sorry for posting 4 posts of the same thing. I hope it goes over 100 HP. It is all stock besides the turbo, isn't it?

Last weekend i was chating with daniel and he gave me the idea of using a VW G-compressor instead of a Turbo. I think that will be a good ideia too.

Ricardo

Any more news?

Ricardo

Yeah shes a go'er went for its first drive last night, but it was raining and I havent got the exhaust hooked up yet (the neighbours must hate me by now) any way Its getting to 5 lbs boost but I am having problems with fuel pressure.
I have a holly blue and a reg but the reg only lets fuel pressure get to 9 lbs, where the pump can deliver 14 lbs, so tonight I have set up a hobbs pressure switch in the manifold set to 5 lbs.
So at 5 lbs of boost the pressure switch opens a soliniod and bypasses the regulator supplying 14 lbs of fuel pressure.
Results excelent it revs its head off now but its raining and it only has a single spinner diff so wheel spin is a problem.
Plus its not regestered so I dont want to take it out much.
Its going to the exhaust place tomorrow and hopefully to the dyno on saturday. Ill also get some pics aswell then,
P.S got my mits on a huge truck turbo the other day...........

What is a holly blue ?

Ricardo

i belive its a big fuel pump made by holley (the guys who make holley carbs)

if you do accidentally post more than one message of the same content, how do you delete it ,i wouldnt normally ask a question in an anrelated topic but i did it just then, to cover it up im writing over it.

I normally ask Daniel (danielblues) to remove it.

Ricardo

Thats right a holly blue is a fuel pump.
Today I got the exhaust finished off.
Went for a nother drive and had a fiddle,
wound the boost up to 15 lbs and started to get detonation and then lost fuel pressure.
So if I can overcome the detination by getting more fuel pressure and retarding the ignition some more it should go well.I have found that it goes best at the moment with 10lbs boost.
This weekend I will defonatley get some pics and post them!

That A12 engine of yours must have a very quick response. With small turbos you normally get faster response and less inertia. After all, maybe 2 small turbos are better than one big .

Maybe you will need to decrease the static compression in order to reduce the detonation, so you can increase the boost pressure.

Hope it works right.

Ricardo

while we're on the subject of putting cars together..
what is the best way to get grease into new cables.. nissan always give them to you dry the buggers

Today I am going to put on water injection and see if I can get the boost up a little. I am going to have it spray water over the intercooler when the boost gets over 8 lbs.
Ill let you know how it goes tonight.
On the subject of grease in the cabels, I wonder if you could mix the grease with metho or something like that which would evaporate once the mixture is in side the cabel, leaving only the grease, how do you think that would go??

Any news?

Ricardo

have you thougt about water/alchol injection that decreases your charge temp while cleaning you carbon deposits out of the motor

No special news yet
I am still tinkering with it and trying to get it to go faster.
Ive drilled out the secondary main jet and put on adjustable waste gates so as I can adjust the boost at each turbo.
Its going well at the moment, I've droped the boost down to 8psi and advanced the timing and put in a bottle of octain booster
and I guess its doing some where in the 16's on the quarter.
This sunday they are having a race day at heathcote park, so im taking it down and Im going to try and get some footage of it running down the strip......stay tuned......

Today I drilled the primary jet out from 97 to 150 and the secondary jet out from 150 to 200, there is definatley no shortage of fuel now

Then I took the datto to heathcote park and ran a 16.08 @ 84mph which I recon is pritty good considering it has standard carby,points and engine internials
Maby the jet sizes should have been a bit smaller

I got in 10 runs and finally the diff blew(it was a standard 3.9 single spinner any way), but the engine was running like a top.
A new diff and some more fiddling around and I recon I'll be getting high 15's................lets see..............

Top work!
Got any pics or anything of your runs?

I was just looking at the factory specifications for a VL turbo Commodore auto
Performance 0-100kph/0-400m
8.4 sec/16.1 sec (Automatic)
That means my 1200 is quicker than a standard VL turbo auto

23\10\02 I have pulled the manifolds off and done a bit of porting to them and what a result I got. Last sunday I took the datto to heathcote drags and ran constant mid 15's and a best of 15.2 and It ran all day with out a hiccup didnt even blow the diff this time

don't mix metho and grease coz it all just runs out the other end i tryed it once u r better usin a product called INOX it would be the best lubricant i have ever come across.
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