are you goin to upgrade to thermo fans?

geez blowfly this motor looks clean as....
send me one to brissy

a little of topic, how did u go mounting the sss badge???

Yep I will be mounting a thermo fan onto a Gemini radiator soon but for now I will be using the car to go to work which is all non stop driving at 80kmph so air flow will always be there.
I mounted the SSS badge today by using some araldite and gluing it to the grill, I couldn't find anything to use to make a mounting bracket so I thought this would work well and it looks like it has worked pretty good

you know when I took the car to my father in laws place to fit this motor, the old A12 motor didn't even have enough low down torque to drive up the driveway which was only a slight incline. What made it so bad was the auto box, if it had have been a manual I could have slipped the clutch and got up the driveway but instead I needed a push from my brother in law. what a slug of a motor! I gave it a home in a big metal bin after taking the bits I wanted to keep

You might want to get rid of that balancer.

yep I thought of that today but that big metal bin is gone now so the old A12 pulley went with it but it could be useful if I want to fit a supercharger later I guess

hav u got a rough estimate of the power it would have?

I think it should make about 90 horsepower at the wheels. When I started it for 30 seconds it was quite lopey and responsive at light touches of the throttle and bloody loud too I have never had the oppurtunity to see a tough A series run so naturally I am keen as mustard to get it running

Balancers good for really high compression motors or high boost as they reduce crank twist.

this a15 set up has set you back $5000? how much has just been spent on the motor? how much on brakes diff ect?

jeeeze where do I start!
First I bought the A15 for $550
then a race head for $1150 with twin mikuni's and a new custom cam thrown in
Then I bought new linkages, air filters ram tubes and soft mounts for the mikuni's about $230
then I sold the mikunis because I had second thoughts about them working with an auto.
Then I bought a weber 38/38 DGRA Carb for $300
Jets cost $200 for an assortment and $55 for an adapter plate.
Air filter $55
Linkage kit $55
gasket kit $?
extractors $280
Dizzy, coil and bracket $610
new cam chain, tensioner and sprockets about $150.
new watwer pump $40
Exhaust system $350
Plus things like tools, tension wrench, degree wheel, dial gauge, breaker bar and 26mm sprocket for the front pulley.
Then things like 120Y struts, new brakes and master cylinder, the diff is stock at the moment but I am not sure how it will go with a auto box.
Plus when you have a budget set it dwindles away with fuel used to travel and find parts, hiring of trailers, courrier and postage costs, testing of valve springs and head condition, the list of things never ends!

Quote:Are you sure it's a balancer?
It looks like an aircon model double pulley to me. A true balancer will help with smoothness, but it doesn't seem to be a problem in most A series engines. If you are in the habit of wringing it out to about 7,500 rpm before flat shifting, .......... & missing the gear, then a harmonic balancer may well be of some help in preventing the flywheel from coming loose. At least, that's been the experience of a local racer with his balancer.

That also looks like an aircon model water pump. If this can be made to fit in the car, [they're longer] then I would not regard the use of electric fans as an 'upgrade' as these aircon waterpump/ fan combinations are 'speed limited' [above a certain engine speed the fan just freewheels] & the thermo function means that they really only hook up to the fan when the temp rises above a preset figure.
They really pump some air at relatively low speed too, which is when you mostly need it.

If there is room to fit it, then I prefer this setup in a street driver over an electric fan any old day.

Will be nice to see how it performs with all that moula thrown in and the 38/38 weber instead of twin sus?

the big clutch fan doesnt fit behind on an a 1200, but they fit well on a vanette
nice looking motor, you will love the additional torque
ive had to put in a chunky urvan radiator to keep my worked a15 engine temp from staying over 1/2 way when in traffic. 10" thermo fan does the job. i noticed in a BMW520i that theyre radiator is same size as urvan, just lighter. it also has the right location for the hoses and a built in temp sender for a thermo fan. use an oil cooler with this motor if you can, i can quite easily get the temp of my motor oil to ~100celcius. (20mins of over 80mph driving would do it once the motor is warm)

Nice work!

Sounds very simmiler to what i want to do to the 1000.

Whats been done to the race head you got?

You'll have to bring it up for the next cruise/event!

And bin that bloody auto ASAP

the head was shaved, combustion chambers shaped, ports were ported out, valves were linished and cut for the the new seats, stem seals are heavy duty and I think thats about it. The auto box is a big let down but will have to do till our house is finished being built so I can have some room to put an old 120Y with a 5 speed and pull it to bits to convert mine over.
I will be in for the next cruise for sure

cant wait to hear about it, try to be nice to it at first, my engine builder made me drive under 3500rpm for first 2000kms. it was worth the wait, although ive heard lots of diff things from diff people on wearing in a new (or fully rebuilt) motor.
(eg run it for 20mins at 2000rpm and its worn in, for race motors) hope you also got some grub screws into the (carby side of the) head, mine leaked first time i filled her up. i remember the first time i drove out of the dyno shop after i put the a15 motor in..

yes I just run mine in for 20 minutes at 2000rpm
I gave the carb a slight tune today as it is hard to tune with no exhaust system attatched to the headers, but I managed to get it to idle (roughly) at 1300rpm in neautral but I think I will get a bit more control once the exhaust has a bit of back pressure, I am running 10 degrees advance too which I think is a bit too high so I will give it a tweak later on again when the exhaust is finished.
I am using F6 emulsion tubes, 185 air correctors, 152 main jets, 50 idle jets but it has a 2 L power valve and accelerator pump jet which makes it flare up to 2000rpm for a few seconds if I give it a slight blip of the throttle but it settles back to a rough idle after about 4 or 5 seconds, I will have to find a smaller accelerator pump jet to suilt the 1.5L capacity.
The carb is a bit of a pain to tune but nothing like a set of sidies!
Just need to adjust the lean best idle mixture screws at the same time for each side, but one screw is right down near the intake manifold which make turning it a very fidly and frustrating process, both screws are set at 1 and a 1/3rd of a turn out from fully seated.
I took it for a nip around the block again and noticed the T handle on the auto vibrated off and the rear view mirror was vibrating all over the place from the exhaust reverberating through the car, can't wait for that exhaust

Blofly you're my hero
tell me how it runs auto
So i can convince rallycar it's worth having a good auto car.

This looks schmick as
Enjoy

I have it booked in for an exhaust system to be made up in a few days so I can start driving it, one thing I did notice is the slight inclined driveway I mentioned before that the old A12 couldn't even drive up, well with this new motor I just have to give it a slight blip and it easily makes it up, plenty more torque and much more power. I have a little more work to do with the cooling system and exhaust system and she will be a runner hooray

Performance Report ....... how is the Datto behaving???

awesome revs beautifully, starts instantly on ice cold mornings, idles at 700rpm, and will hit 100kmph in first gear (the car is a 3 speed automatic!) spent over $300 tuning carby with new jets and all the other bits and pieces just to get it 100% perfect

Have you had it dyno'd ?

I plan to and to have the exhaust gas ratio checked too, it costs $90 for three power and torque runs here in Bunbury WA