No worries, questions are good, keeps me entertained at work ha!

Mounts depends what sort of gearbox, is it 4 or 5 spd. Also if its a long box ie, 200b 4spd, z-car, bluebird etc you'll need to get a tailshaft fabricated with the 510 yoke and your tailshaft.

If its a stumpy 4 or 5spd then use a B110 or B210 A/Trans tailshaft that suits your style of diff ie. Borgwarner or Jap Diff. As long as your engine isnt midmounted it should be the correct fit and length.

Get a B210 speedo cable as they are a bit longer as the input is on the passenger side of the box.

Keep those questions rolling, don't really feel too productive hear at work tonight!

I got a 1974 120y, so i got the h145 diff...do know a guy that has a 120y van rotting in his back yard, these vans have a h150 right?

would that handle a bit more car play like some crazy drifts ou a few burnouts? this car is my daily driver, but some times you just got do that nice drift turning on an empty street, or give that damn Fiat peace of crap reving at a red light a lesson...im not in to street racing or nothing...but its an empty street, nobody wacthing...why not? hehe...

I've heard you can bolt up an 200sx gearbox to the L16...is there any truth to this? or when you say bluebird you say 200sx? sorry for the name swiching...need to start writing things down...hehe...

You a nocturnal worker? hmmm...what you do?

thanks for the atention...peace...

Not sure on the 120y's really. I thought they all had H150's! But the tailshafts should be identical.

I dont know if 5mm extra in diameter would handle much more power, they arent really that bad its more the excessive and constant launches that kills the H145, saying that, ive busted A-series gearboxes, L-series boxes in my 1600 but never busted a diff.

200sx, what does that look like? A bluebird here is 80-84, come in L20 for series 1 and 2, series 3 have a CA20.

Any Lseries box will bolt up provided you use the correct clutch, there are two pressure plate heights, also flywheels for a L20 have larger bolt spcaing for the clutch, you can use all z-car clutches. For the L16 and L18 you can use roadster clutches.

Yeah I work avo shift, just work for a printers making plates and typesetting, some graphic design etc. Basically have a computer in front of me most the time, its a job! Learning first aid this week so I get a $11 pay rise and some life experience.

Hey pigdog, so the 200b jobbie fits the speedo cluster on a coupe? Cool, I have a 200b wreck at the shed im sending to the scrapper next week!

Acording to the club wiki article this is what i got:

"NOTE: The 1974 B210 uses an H145, although the housing is the new stronger design."

Hmmm so i'm not gonna worry about the diff...im not gonna drag strip or anything so i guess ill be fine...i even rebuilt it the other day...strangest problem...a bearing spacer, a piece of pipe that gives the distint between the bearings of the atake pinion, that spacer got shorter and the bearing where being crushed...solution i got a piece of this goldish metal sheet, 3mm thick, and made a little spacer washer...if anybody has this problem, a diff making a strange noise and has no free movment...feel free to ask...i didnt take fotos but i know the whole process...

What is the performance you can get from a L16? Im planing on rebuilding it once i get the 510...probably work the head a bit...nothing fancy...buy some exhaust headers...i think it is a good option...why is your feeling on the L series engine? i hear only good things...

Oh and the 200sx is a silvia for you guys...i think...its the s12 series that i was talking about...hmmm...sorry for the confusion...now a get it...the silvia has the ca18det so i guess that gear box is out of the question...

Hmmm its a cool job...you get your creative vains pumping...first aid...comes in handy...when you least expect it...hope you never get to use it though...would be bad for some one else...

Thanks a lot for the replies...

having ther control arm and tie rods are at different angles will cause bump steer too.

will a 120y speedo cable actually reach far enough? i used a 200b one on mine

gearbox mounts should be in the same spot for all the L series boxes

Cheers TUF-110 - My L 1200 army grows!

Ronny, on the racecar Ive used a 1200 crossmember, modified the engine cradles and engine mounts to suit and a maddat ca18 gearbox crossmember.

This setup for my daily is basically the same I got it all as a running package so I've pulled it all apart and tidyed it up, redrilled the lower control arm pivot points 20mm outward and 15mm upwards to correct geometry as Im using late 120y lower arms and MR30 struts with bmw sports option rear springs (were from bilstein coilover rear) and lower spring seats (non adjustable but slide on fit and just welded on).

Both L16's have been from stanza's or H510's as they might be known there, that way the sump 'bump' is at the front away from the drag link.

What 510 do you have access to?

Hmmm...So the stanza is the same as the 510? over here in Portugal we have a lot of 510 SSS!
Its the double SU carb version...im not shure about the year of the car...not all oil sumps are front bumped right? in case of a rear sump what should i do?

what are MR30 struts? sorry for my ignorance...i have been thinking about this conversion for some time...what about the stuts from the 510? and brakes?

Another thing will my h145 diff stay alive with an L16? Of what i read on forum probably not...but some say maybe...should i give the h145 a go? or try to get a h165 and swap the diff center with with the 510 diff....if it is possible... do you have any fotos of the crossmember mods?

Sorry for all the questions...hehe...im just really looking forward to do this...

Stanzas are actually A10 bodies.

H510 was a L18 engined Datsun 1600 (aka Bluebird in Japan)

L16 engined Datsun 1600 is a P510.

on redrilling the x-member, did the MR30 strut swap move the outer tie rod end downward 15mm?

Quote:

No upwards about 15mm, its more to correct the angle of the lower arm after lowering because it was horizontal and causing bump steer. At the same time I have added camber and widened the track overall by 40mm.

Using stanza balljoints I could increase the track further by another 15-20mm.

I only used the MR30 struts because I came across koni reds for a 200b reasonably cheap and they are the same size as MR30 inserts, the struts have vented rotors and nice large caliper, also good for negative offset wheels.

Ronny, you wont be able to use the R160 centre, it wont interchange as the 510 uses a irs rear end. A H165 centre from a stanza or bluebird will swap into a H165 from a B120 ute.

Im sticking with the H145 rear end as Im not a fan of burnouts or hard launches on the street, it all seems a bit silly to me, plus the larger the diff the closer it ends up to the floor and then you loose suspension travel.